Question about Duracell Standby Power Plug 400 Watt Inverter

I am assuming that it can, since it says it is a 17 amp/hour internal battery. By comparison, the universal portable battery pack that Respironics sells is rated at 14.4 amp/hour and they say that it should power a cpap (without humidifier) for around 20 hours.

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Ok, Heres the deal. A gel cell battery is 7.2 Ampere hrs, so to get 14,4 Ampere hours you would need two batteries connected in parallel. A F&P machine such as mine consumes around 60 Watts of power. Using Ohms law we get W= IxE or Watts = volts X amps[or amperes = watts / volts] so that a 60 Watt machine has a current draw of 60/110< =0.55A so that a 14.4 A/hr battery will run this machine for around 20hrs (allowing a residual charge of 25%)

Posted on Mar 23, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Surly it didn't specify 79 hours of charge time did it? For 10 hours of operation the charge time should be around 20 hours or less depending on the charge controller device. I would hope it shuts the charging off once it senses the battery to be fully charged. Assuming all this is working as I've stated then I would conclude it is defective and seek to return/replace under warranty.

Nov 01, 2017 | Audio Players & Recorders

The voltmeter test provides general indicator of battery condition. Check the voltage of the battery to verify that it is in a 100 per cent fully charged condition. If the open circuit or disconnected voltage reading is below 12.6 V, charge the battery and then recheck the voltage after the battery has set for one to two hours. If the voltage reading is 12.8 V or above, perform the load test described below.

The load test measures battery performance under full current load and is the best indicator of battery condition. Load testing a battery tat is not FULLY CHARGED i.e. at 12.8 VDC can permanently damage it. Fully charge it first and then let it stand for at least an hour before the load test is done. You also need a load tester AND you should know how to perform a load test. Often the best way to load test a battery will be to take it to a battery shop and have it done there.

**VOLTAGE and STATE OF CHARGE FOR AGM BATTERIES IS:**

12.8 VDC is 100 per cent

12.6 VDC is 75 per cent

12.3 VDC is 50 per cent

12.0 VDC is 25 per cent

11.8 VDC is 0 per cent

**COLD CRANKING AMPERAGE (CCA) for a DYNA battery is 270**

**Battery**** Charging Rates/Times (Approximate)**

**FOR A 19 AMP HOUR DYNA AGM BATTERY **

**BATTERY**** STATE**** OF CHARGE is 12.8 VDC is 100 per cent Charge; Rate of Charge is N/A**

**BATTERY**** STATE**** OF CHARGE is 12.6 VDC is 75 per cent Charge; Rate of Charge at 3 AMP is **1.75 hours at **6 AMP is **50 minutes at **10 AMP is **30 minutes at **20 AMP is **15 minutes

**BATTERY**** STATE**** OF CHARGE is 12.3 VDC is 50 per cent Charge; Rate of Charge at 3 AMP is **3.5 hours at **6 AMP is **1.75 hours at **10 AMP is **1 hour at **20 AMP is **30 minutes

**BATTERY**** STATE**** OF CHARGE is 12.0 VDC is 25 per cent Charge; Rate of Charge at 3 AMP is **5 hours at **6 AMP is **2.5 hours at **10 AMP is **1.5 hours at **20 AMP is **45 minutes

**BATTERY**** STATE**** OF CHARGE is 11.8 VDC is 0 per cent Charge; Rate of Charge at 3 AMP is **6 hours, 40 minutes at** 6 AMP is **3 hours, 20 minutes** at 10 AMP is **2 hours at **20 AMP is **1 hour

The figures listed above assume that the battery is charging at room temperature. If warmer than room temperature, use a slightly shorter charging time. If colder, use a slightly longer charging time.

The use of constant current chargers to charge maintenance free batteries is not recommended. Any overcharge will cause dry out and premature battery failure. If a constant current charger is the only type available, do**not **exceed the charge times listed above and do **not **continue charging the battery if it gets hot. When charging, never exceed 15 volts for more than 30 minutes.

**If the battery gets hotter than 110 degrees F or 43 degrees C during charging, discontinue charger and allow the battery to cool. Overheating may result in plate distortion, internal shorting, dry out and/or other damage.**

The load test measures battery performance under full current load and is the best indicator of battery condition. Load testing a battery tat is not FULLY CHARGED i.e. at 12.8 VDC can permanently damage it. Fully charge it first and then let it stand for at least an hour before the load test is done. You also need a load tester AND you should know how to perform a load test. Often the best way to load test a battery will be to take it to a battery shop and have it done there.

12.8 VDC is 100 per cent

12.6 VDC is 75 per cent

12.3 VDC is 50 per cent

12.0 VDC is 25 per cent

11.8 VDC is 0 per cent

The figures listed above assume that the battery is charging at room temperature. If warmer than room temperature, use a slightly shorter charging time. If colder, use a slightly longer charging time.

The use of constant current chargers to charge maintenance free batteries is not recommended. Any overcharge will cause dry out and premature battery failure. If a constant current charger is the only type available, do

Apr 22, 2014 | Harley Davidson XL 1200 S Sportster Sport...

The voltmeter test provides a general indicatorof battery condition. Check the voltage of the battery to verify that it is in a 100% fully charged condition. If the open circuit (disconnected) voltage reading is below 12.6V, charge the battery and then recheck the voltage after the battery has set for one to two hours. If the voltage reading is 12.8V or above, perform the load test described below.

The load test measures battery performance under full current load and is the best indicator of battery condition. Load testing a battery tat is not FULLY CHARGED i.e. at 12.8 VDC can permanently damage it. Fully charge it first and then let it stand for at least an hour before the load test is done. You also need a load tester. AND you should know how to perform a load test. Often the best way to load test a battery will be to take it to a battery shop and have it done there.

**VOLTAGE (OCV) STATE OF CHARGE FOR AGM BATTERIES IS:**

12.8 VDC = 100%

12.6 VDC = 75%

12.3 VDC = 50%

12.0 VDC = 25%

11.8 VDC = 0%

**COLD CRANKING AMPERAGE (CCA) for a DYNA battery is 270**

**19 AMP HOUR BATTERY =**

**BATTERY**** STATE**** OF CHARGE = 12.8 VDC = 100% Charge; Rate of Charge = N/A**

**BATTERY**** STATE**** OF CHARGE = 12.6 VDC = 75% Charge; Rate of Charge @ 3 AMP = **1.75 hours @ **6 AMP = **50 minutes @ **10 AMP = **30 minutes @ **20 AMP = **15 minutes

**BATTERY**** STATE**** OF CHARGE = 12.3 VDC = 50% Charge; Rate of Charge @ 3 AMP = **3.5 hours @ **6 AMP = **1.75 hours @!**10 AMP = **1 hour @ **20 AMP = **30 minutes

**BATTERY**** STATE**** OF CHARGE = 12.0 VDC = 25% Charge; Rate of Charge @ 3 AMP = **5 hours @ **6 AMP = **2.5 hours @ **10 AMP = **1.5 hours @ **20 AMP = **45 minutes

**BATTERY**** STATE**** OF CHARGE = 11.8 VDC = 0% Charge; Rate of Charge @ 3 AMP = **6 hours, 40 minutes @** 6 AMP = **3 hours, 20 minutes** @ 10 AMP = **2 hours @ **20 AMP = **1 hour

*The figures listed above assume that the battery is charging at room temperature. If warmer than room temperature, use a slightly shorter charging time. If colder, use a slightly longer charging time.*

*The use of constant current chargers to charge maintenance-free batteries is not recommended. Any overcharge*

*will cause dry-out and premature battery failure. If a constant current charger is the only type available, do ***not **exceed the charge times listed above and do **not **continue charging the battery if it gets hot. When charging, never exceed 15 volts for more than 30 minutes.

**If the battery gets hotter than 110 degrees F. (43 degrees C) during charging, discontinue charger and allow the battery to cool. Overheating may result in plate distortion, internal shorting, dry out and/or other damage.**

**COLD CRANKING AMPERAGE (CCA) for a DYNA battery is 270**

The load test measures battery performance under full current load and is the best indicator of battery condition. Load testing a battery tat is not FULLY CHARGED i.e. at 12.8 VDC can permanently damage it. Fully charge it first and then let it stand for at least an hour before the load test is done. You also need a load tester. AND you should know how to perform a load test. Often the best way to load test a battery will be to take it to a battery shop and have it done there.

12.8 VDC = 100%

12.6 VDC = 75%

12.3 VDC = 50%

12.0 VDC = 25%

11.8 VDC = 0%

Apr 22, 2014 | Harley Davidson XL 1200 S Sportster Sport...

The voltmeter test provides a general indicatorof battery condition. Check the voltage of the battery to verify that it is in a 100% fully charged condition. If the open circuit (disconnected) voltage reading is below 12.6V, charge the battery and then recheck the voltage after the battery has set for one to two hours. If the voltage reading is 12.8V or above, perform the load test described below.

The load test measures battery performance under full current load and is the best indicator of battery condition. Load testing a battery tat is not FULLY CHARGED i.e. at 12.8 VDC can permanently damage it. Fully charge it first and then let it stand for at least an hour before the load test is done. You also need a load tester. AND you should know how to perform a load test. Often the best way to load test a battery will be to take it to a battery shop and have it done there.

**VOLTAGE (OCV) STATE OF CHARGE FOR AGM BATTERIES IS:**

12.8 VDC = 100%

12.6 VDC = 75%

12.3 VDC = 50%

12.0 VDC = 25%

11.8 VDC = 0%

**COLD CRANKING AMPERAGE (CCA) for an XLH battery is 270**

**19 AMP HOUR BATTERY =**

**BATTERY**** STATE**** OF CHARGE = 12.8 VDC = 100% Charge; Rate of Charge = N/A**

**BATTERY**** STATE**** OF CHARGE = 12.6 VDC = 75% Charge; Rate of Charge @ 3 AMP = **1.75 hours @ **6 AMP = **50 minutes @ **10 AMP = **30 minutes @ **20 AMP = **15 minutes

**BATTERY**** STATE**** OF CHARGE = 12.3 VDC = 50% Charge; Rate of Charge @ 3 AMP = **3.5 hours @ **6 AMP = **1.75 hours @!**10 AMP = **1 hour @ **20 AMP = **30 minutes

**BATTERY**** STATE**** OF CHARGE = 12.0 VDC = 25% Charge; Rate of Charge @ 3 AMP = **5 hours @ **6 AMP = **2.5 hours @ **10 AMP = **1.5 hours @ **20 AMP = **45 minutes

**BATTERY**** STATE**** OF CHARGE = 11.8 VDC = 0% Charge; Rate of Charge @ 3 AMP = **6 hours, 40 minutes @** 6 AMP = **3 hours, 20 minutes** @ 10 AMP = **2 hours @ **20 AMP = **1 hour

*The figures listed above assume that the battery is charging at room temperature. If warmer than room temperature, use a slightly shorter charging time. If colder, use a slightly longer charging time.*

*The use of constant current chargers to charge maintenance-free batteries is not recommended. Any overcharge*

*will cause dry-out and premature battery failure. If a constant current charger is the only type available, do ***not **exceed the charge times listed above and do **not **continue charging the battery if it gets hot. When charging, never exceed 15 volts for more than 30 minutes.

**If the battery gets hotter than 110 degrees F. (43 degrees C) during charging, discontinue charger and allow the battery to cool. Overheating may result in plate distortion, internal shorting, dry out and/or other damage.**

**COLD CRANKING AMPERAGE (CCA) for a 2001 XLH battery is 270**

The load test measures battery performance under full current load and is the best indicator of battery condition. Load testing a battery tat is not FULLY CHARGED i.e. at 12.8 VDC can permanently damage it. Fully charge it first and then let it stand for at least an hour before the load test is done. You also need a load tester. AND you should know how to perform a load test. Often the best way to load test a battery will be to take it to a battery shop and have it done there.

12.8 VDC = 100%

12.6 VDC = 75%

12.3 VDC = 50%

12.0 VDC = 25%

11.8 VDC = 0%

Apr 22, 2014 | Harley Davidson XL 1200 S Sportster Sport...

I can tell you this. I have a 17 HP Craftsman and the battery specs are:

28 amp hour

230 Cold Cranking Amps, minimum

My case size is U1R, but yours may differ.

A good auto supply store can probably look up your specs.

If your current battery is less than this, you may be correct about someone installing an undersized battery.

How does your engine crank if you use a car to jump it?

Let me know.

Gary

28 amp hour

230 Cold Cranking Amps, minimum

My case size is U1R, but yours may differ.

A good auto supply store can probably look up your specs.

If your current battery is less than this, you may be correct about someone installing an undersized battery.

How does your engine crank if you use a car to jump it?

Let me know.

Gary

May 30, 2011 | Garden

Hi. What size batteries you buy will be limited to the amount of room you have in the machine.

17 amp hour batteries are really a bit small for any mobility equipement. A lot of power chairs have 35 or 40 amp/hour batteries.

Buy the biggest that will fit into the available space.

Batteries are designed to perform a certain number of "charge cycles". If you run your batteries down by 75%, you will only get a small number of "charge cycles". If you only use 25% of the batteries capacity, you will get 100's of "charge cycles".

The best I have seen is 7 years out of a set of batteries. Short trips and recharging after each trip is the reason.

Good luck. Neil.

17 amp hour batteries are really a bit small for any mobility equipement. A lot of power chairs have 35 or 40 amp/hour batteries.

Buy the biggest that will fit into the available space.

Batteries are designed to perform a certain number of "charge cycles". If you run your batteries down by 75%, you will only get a small number of "charge cycles". If you only use 25% of the batteries capacity, you will get 100's of "charge cycles".

The best I have seen is 7 years out of a set of batteries. Short trips and recharging after each trip is the reason.

Good luck. Neil.

Jun 03, 2010 | Electric Mobility Pacesaver Electric...

The Endura 30 draws 30 amps at the highest setting (5), so it'll run 100/30 - 3.33 hours with a fully charged 100AH battery. At setting (4), it only draws 15 amps, so it'll run 100/15 = 6.6 hours. At the lowest setting, it draws 3 amps, and should run 33 hours.

Feb 12, 2010 | Minn Kota Endura 30 Freshwater Transom...

Put a generator in the trunk. I am assuming this is RMS
watts. This will require modification to the vehicle's electrical system. Lets
look at what you are saying. You are going to use two 1200 watt amplifiers, for
a total of 2400 RMS watts.

Using a simple rule of thumb based on ohm's law and assuming a little over 80% efficiency in the amps (I doubt it) you divide the total watts by 10 (the cars 12 volts – a fuge), that leaves you a value of 240 or 240 amps required to power the amps at 12 volts DC.

Now consider 20 feet of wire to the battery or forty feet of wire round trip, one for positive and one for negative. a #2 AGW wire, about the size of your finger, will give you a 1.8 volt drop or 7% voltage drop in the wire. Assuming the alternator is maintaining 13.8 (standard charging voltage) that leaves you exactly 12V at the amplifier. This sounds great but the larger alternators only put out about 100 amps so you need 2.4 alternators to supply the current the amps will need. Lets assume a standard car battery is rated at 50 amp hours, that indicates that the battery can supply about 12 minutes of power at full output. Now calculate the rest of the power requirements of the vehicle and what you are short in alternator capacity the battery makes up. I would guess you vehicle battery would be dead in less then ½ hour or you need to keep the volume way down. That indicates a much smaller amp would be a much more cost effective solution.

Good Luck,

Gilshultz

Using a simple rule of thumb based on ohm's law and assuming a little over 80% efficiency in the amps (I doubt it) you divide the total watts by 10 (the cars 12 volts – a fuge), that leaves you a value of 240 or 240 amps required to power the amps at 12 volts DC.

Now consider 20 feet of wire to the battery or forty feet of wire round trip, one for positive and one for negative. a #2 AGW wire, about the size of your finger, will give you a 1.8 volt drop or 7% voltage drop in the wire. Assuming the alternator is maintaining 13.8 (standard charging voltage) that leaves you exactly 12V at the amplifier. This sounds great but the larger alternators only put out about 100 amps so you need 2.4 alternators to supply the current the amps will need. Lets assume a standard car battery is rated at 50 amp hours, that indicates that the battery can supply about 12 minutes of power at full output. Now calculate the rest of the power requirements of the vehicle and what you are short in alternator capacity the battery makes up. I would guess you vehicle battery would be dead in less then ½ hour or you need to keep the volume way down. That indicates a much smaller amp would be a much more cost effective solution.

Good Luck,

Gilshultz

Dec 01, 2009 | Pioneer Car Audio & Video

Your said your battery is rated for 85 amps / hour. This means 1 hour at 85 amps, 42 hours at 2 amps, 85 hours at 1 amp or any number of hours in between determined by 85 divided by the number of amps of the load connected. The microwave uses 600 watts. Since we can't reliably determine amps in an AC circuit - I can get close using the DC calculation. I'll assume 120 Volts at 600 watts for the microwave. Watts = Volts multiplied by Amps, so the microwave uses about 5 amps (120 x 5 = 600). HOWEVER, this is not an accurate way to determine AC amps when voltage and watts are known. I'll bet the microwave has the actual amount of amps (along with the model, voltage, wattage etc.) on a label on the back, side or inside the door. This is the information that is accurate. Use the amp rating provided on the name plate to determine how long the batter will last. Assume 8.5 amps is the value provided on the name plate.. 85 amp hour (85 AH) battery would supply an 8.5 amp (8.5 A) load for 10 hours because: 85 AH divided by 8.5 A = 10 H. The quality of the battery, and the losses contributed by the inverter will reduce the actual amount of time that the battery could supply the microwave.

I hope this helps!

I hope this helps!

Sep 18, 2009 | Panasonic Microwave Ovens

The symptom you describe of starter clicking, sure does sound like a weak battery.

The starter draws 120-200 amps and if down a bit, the battery will not supply that kind of current.

The other loads you mention are puny by comparison only requiring a few amps and can be tolerated by a tired battery after it has a while to recover from the starting current it tried to deliver.

Even with a jump, don't get too far from home; the alternator may be at fault and not charging the battery as it should.

There is a kind of failure that can happen internally in the alternator that will drain the battery.

The only way to determine if this is the case is by monitoring the current drawn from the battery with everything that can be turned off, turned off.

All modern vehicles draw some kind of current even with 'everything' off. The computer, clocks, certain radios, all these things draw minute currents even when not in use but the total drain should be well under an amp.

About any cheap digital meter has a 10 Amp UNfused input that is handy for checking this drain but if it exceeds the 10 amps, it will likely damage the meter. Once the battery is disconnected, just tap the leads to see if it appears the maximum will be exceeded. This short term high current won't bother most.

DON'T turn ON anything while doing this, lots of things in a car draw >10 amps.

If you have a Harbor Freight tool store nearby, they often have adequate such small meters for ~$3.

Otherwise, Radio Shack.

The starter draws 120-200 amps and if down a bit, the battery will not supply that kind of current.

The other loads you mention are puny by comparison only requiring a few amps and can be tolerated by a tired battery after it has a while to recover from the starting current it tried to deliver.

Even with a jump, don't get too far from home; the alternator may be at fault and not charging the battery as it should.

There is a kind of failure that can happen internally in the alternator that will drain the battery.

The only way to determine if this is the case is by monitoring the current drawn from the battery with everything that can be turned off, turned off.

All modern vehicles draw some kind of current even with 'everything' off. The computer, clocks, certain radios, all these things draw minute currents even when not in use but the total drain should be well under an amp.

About any cheap digital meter has a 10 Amp UNfused input that is handy for checking this drain but if it exceeds the 10 amps, it will likely damage the meter. Once the battery is disconnected, just tap the leads to see if it appears the maximum will be exceeded. This short term high current won't bother most.

DON'T turn ON anything while doing this, lots of things in a car draw >10 amps.

If you have a Harbor Freight tool store nearby, they often have adequate such small meters for ~$3.

Otherwise, Radio Shack.

Aug 24, 2008 | 2002 Pontiac Montana

May 15, 2009 | Duracell Standby Power Plug 400 Watt...

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