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Di32fp diplomat what kind of ballast do I need for the fluorescent light bulbs

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: ballast for fluorescent lamp

instal a day light lamp insted a white light one, the ballast is set to an specific watage...good luck

Posted on Aug 12, 2006

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SOURCE: Fluorescent light that keeps flickering

The ballast is a device that utilises and expanding/contracting electromagnetic field to create the high voltage which is needed to run fluorescent lights.

It is normally found behind the front cover or reflector part of the fitting and looks like a small box.

Replacement should normally be done by a person qualified in this field.

Posted on Dec 06, 2007

  • 260 Answers

SOURCE: Flickering light on my Hampton Bay Covington Fan.

Could be a bad connection try to check the wiring to ensure a good contact. turn power off first.

Posted on Apr 09, 2009

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SOURCE: two different size ultraviolet ballast. The .71AMP

I usually test the ballast simply by excluding everything else.

1) Put in bulb that you know works
2) Replace starter (if you have one)
3) check that wiring is intact (sounds like it is for you but I had one light that the wiring barely made contact so sometimes it came on and sometimes it blinked)
4) If all that is good, then it's probably the ballast.

Posted on Sep 30, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have a Hunter model 21241 ceiling fan with

The ballast is still available on the internet, just Google "veb82122." They want $37 plus shipping. You can also but a 22W Circiline ballast at Home Depot that will work for about $18. (Lowes does not carry them). The original ballast is a solid state design, light weight and instant on. The Home Depot ballast is the heavy transformer kind and a real pain to modify the bracket to make it fit. I have 8 of these Hunter fans and I have installed the Home Depot ballast on two if them so far, but I think that I will order the solid state version as a spare for the next time.

Posted on Dec 11, 2010

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1 Answer

I have a T12 fluorescent light fixture and replaced the bulbs and ballast. I have double checked all the wiring connections. I get the bulbs to light when I move the bulbs, but only for a second.


Your description sounds like the connectors for the tubes. Also RECHECK wiring. Different on newer ballasts. See below...

Turn off fixture, unplug, or deactivate fuse...

Pull out bulbs and the tin fixture cover/reflector.
Extract the bulb connector. Go to hardware and buy 4 more, and just replace them. The connections fail where the wire connects and the rigours of bulb replacements damage this piece. TONS easier to get new pieces.

ALSO!!!! many new (fancy schmancy) ballasts WIRE UP completely differently from the old ballast. Follow the wiring diagram on the NEW ballast. This detail trips up many.

Doc

Sep 13, 2016 | Photography

1 Answer

Fluorescent light proplem


Hello there,

Ballast can be resistor , capacitor, Inductor or all three.in the older ones, there was a 'starter' (neon bulb inside)

Go here for explanation.
http://www.imperialrange.com/contact.php

Normally you would just change the whole thing.

Sep 23, 2014 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

We have Lithonia 2 bulb fixtures in a recessed ceiling. We currently have 2 (25) watt bulbs in them. What wattage can I upgrade to ??


The ballast inside the fixture is rated to operate 2 25w bulbs. You can't put higher wattage bulbs in this fixture, unless you change the ballast. Sorry.

Sep 22, 2014 | Lithonia Lighting Fluorescent Flush Mount...

1 Answer

My fluorescent shop light fixtures sometimes does not go on and sometimes the bulbs just flicker without giving much light. What's wrong?


If your shop is in your garage, and it is cold outside, the two-pin fluorescent tubes don't work very well. Garage lighting (fluorescent) should be the HO (high output) type. It operates on the same voltage. The tubes are not interchangeable. You need a HO fixture. If your shop is inside your house, then flickering tubes (assuming that you tried changing them out with new ones) indicate a bad ballast inside the fixture. You can either change out the ballast, or for almost the same price, replace the fixture.

Sep 19, 2014 | Home

1 Answer

Fixture not working after bulb change


"CFLs" Compact Fluorescent Bulbs (with built in ballast) must be labeled as dimmable to be used on a dimmer circuit.

Traditional fluorescent fixtures must have a dimmable ballast installed inside and can be used with standard fluorescent lamps.

Fluorescent lamps must be sized to match the ballast. CFL's are matched at the factory, but others are not. Older fluorescent lamp fixtures have a ballast inside. A type rating is to operate (2) 48 inch / 40 watt lamps. Newer fluorescent lamps are rated for 32 watts, and these will not work - or will have a greatly reduced life.

If you installed CFL's, the first thing I would do is install regular incandescent lamps and see if it works as expected. If not, something else is wrong - otherwise - make sure you've got the right lamps in the fixture.

Mar 17, 2014 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

Have 3- 13 watt mini spiral bulbs on fixture. When switch in auto mode, lights hum, flicker and not maximum brightness. When switched to on position, lights stop flickering and humming. Full brightness as...


-Replace the compact florescent bulbs with regular incandescent bulbs and see if problem continues.
-Lighting controls are made for different kinds of bulbs.
-Your package should say what the watt rating and type of bulb.

According to the PR180 manual:
-I am looking at the Leviton PR180 occupancy sensor manual, and the PR180 sell-sheet, and these documents say for incandescent and fluorescent (rapid-start magnetic ballast only).
-Compact fluorescent are supposed to have a magnetic ballast.
-The manual does not specifically say it works with 'compact fluorescent'
-The manual does not say there is a minimum amount of wattage either. Some controls will not work correctly if the overall wattage is low. Your overall wattage is 39watts.

Read the product package (if this is a new installation and you have the package)
Try the incandescent bulbs.
If the PR180 is not your product, add a comment with product number and I'll look for information

Nov 06, 2010 | Leviton R01-PR180-1LI Decora 180 Degree...

1 Answer

Fluorescent dimmir


The dimmer you purchase needs to be compatable with the ballasts of the C.F. light. A compact flourescent potlight has a ballast, if your replacing incandescent bulbs with compact flourecent lamps
you still need a flourescent dimmer. Remember a ballast is like a transformer! If you compact flourecent fixture has a ballast by Lutron. then you need a lutron dimmer as there ballasts are not officially compatable with other dimmers, allthough I've seen them work. My advise is buy Pass & Seymour (Legrand) or Leviton.

Jan 21, 2009 | Pass & Seymour / Legrand DFB600-M 600VA...

1 Answer

96 inch fluorescent light only one bulb will burn have changed bulbs and balist


If it is wired correctly,the only thng left is the tomestones, the contacts that the bulb connects to. Try this ;switch the two wires from the one bulb at the ballast to the other bulb on the ballast. If the other bulb now lights then the new ballast is bad and need to be exchanged.

Dec 29, 2008 | Garden

1 Answer

Fluorescent light that keeps flickering


The ballast is a device that utilises and expanding/contracting electromagnetic field to create the high voltage which is needed to run fluorescent lights.

It is normally found behind the front cover or reflector part of the fitting and looks like a small box.

Replacement should normally be done by a person qualified in this field.

Oct 26, 2007 | Sea Gull Lighting Sea Gull Energy Saving...

1 Answer

When to replace


Inside a fluorescent light, electricity is delivered to a ballast, which sends a spark through the mercury-vapor-filled tube (or bulb), creating light by activating phosphors that coat the inside of the tube. If any of the components are faulty, the light won't work right. Once you pinpoint the problem, most fixes are very easy. Remember to turn off the power first! Old bulbs blink off and on just before they die; repairs are often simply a matter of replacing the tube or bulb. This problem may also be occurring because of poor contact between the pins at the ends of a tube and the tube holders. If the pins are bent, use needle-nose pliers to straighten them. Clean up the pins and socket contacts with fine sandpaper, and brush away residue. Though gray bands at the ends of tube are normal, black bands indicate that the tube needs to be replaced. If only one end is dark, turn the bulb end-for-end. If the tube is new and these fixes don't work, you may have to replace the starter or ballast. Some fixtures ("A-rated") are quieter than others are, but most fluorescent lights have a slight hum. If the sound seems too loud-- or if you can smell electrical burning-- shut off the power. The ballast is probably either the wrong type, improperly installed, or defective. Replace it or call an electrician. Brand new tubes tend to flicker, as do bulbs that are cold. If an old tube still flickers after it has had a chance to warm up (or after you've warmed up the room), rotate it a couple of times in the tube holders. Try cleaning the tube's end pins. If it still doesn't work, replace it. If only the ends of the tube glow, either the starter or the ballast is defective. Replace the starter, then the ballast.

Jan 18, 2006 | StarTech.com CCTUBEGN 12.5''TUBE...

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