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Check for broken wiring between the drivers door where the wiring comes out and enters the vehicle. Usually covered in a rubber boot. Cut/slide boot from door and inspect wiring for broken/frayed wires
Assuming all wire harnesses are stock and loomed from the factory it sounds like a frayed power wire making contact to your frame somewhere. Chasing wiring is never fun. Start from the headlamp bucket and work through them looking for fray or broken wire loom. Could be a lead touching the frame or ground wire connection somewhere in its path. Sometimes its as easy as within the headlight bucket itself. Goodluck
You could check the motor brushes, if they are worn and check for loose wire connections. Another possibility is that there may be a break in the lead, plug it in and shake the lead, if it starts and stops you have probably found your problem with a broken lead.
Engine fails to start.
CAUSE - REMEDY
No fuel in tank - Fill tank.
Spark plug shorted or fouled - Replace spark plug.
Spark plug is broken. (cracked porcelain or electrodes broken) - Replace spark plug.
Ignition lead wire shorted, broken, or disconnected from spark plug - Replace lead wire or attach to spark plug.
Ignition inoperative - Contact authorized service center.
I have seen this and took me a long time to figure it out. The problem I have found was inside the plug on the wiring harness to the fuel pump. You can't see it unless you take the plug apart and it may be corroded inside. I don't know if this is your problem but check to see if you have power there and wiggle the wiring to see if it cuts out. Hope this helps.
Start with a new spark plug. Now do you see spark? If not, check the side stand kill switch. It kills the engine so that you don’t start out with the side stand down. If broken or out of adjustment, it would kill the spark. Check for a broken wire at the side stand switch and coupler. Try moving the kill switch by hand. If that doesn’t work then wire a jumper around the switch to bypass it.
Check the fuses. How good is the battery? Try a jump start from your car battery. Is the handlebar kill switch on?
Check the operation of the ignition switch and all kill switches with a volt ohmmeter. Check the wiring harness. Did a wire come unplugged? Are all wires clean and with solid connections? Any abraded or pinched wires? Is the bike in neutral and the neutral light is lit up? If no neutral light, check the neutral switch and neutral switch wire on center casing. If still no spark, get CDI system and coils checked at the dealers shop.
Are the fuses good?
Can I get a “very helpful” rating on this answer? Thanks!
looks like you got one of them right you changed most of the things that cause loss of spark so lets try the simpler things are all the items you have replaced a proper grounding just test with a muti meter you havn,t by any chance got a alarm with cut outs on it then check all your connectors carefully exam the pins have not been bent and are not connecting properly also check the wiring loom on the engine for signs of being rubbed through yates210456
On my MDR-7506, there are 4 screws, not one. Slip the ear pads off
(they should pull off intact; don't worry) and the screws should be
visible on the face of the driver housing. Remove the screws and you'll
gain access to the wiring behind the drivers. You'll see the right side
driver's 2 wires attached to the back of the left driver. I believe the ground wire is gold and the signal wire is red. In my case, my
right driver is the one that's gone silent on me, and the culprit
appears to be a frayed ground wire over on the left side. It's frayed right where the 'bare' (micro-insulated)
wire leading from the left driver enters the protective black tubing that leads to
the right. There might be just enough slack to cut and resolder it, but there's no margin for error. Does anybody have tips for working with
these very fine wires?
A service "manual" (really more of a parts list / exploded view) is here (for now).