In your instance it's really a toss up. Do you trust that the engine was rebuilt properly? Did you check the oil real close, and especially pull the drain plug and check the oil that comes out. If it's got metal flakes or ever worse, shavings, they might have only gotten 20mi. before it ceased up. It could have stuck rings. But a V8 is hard to turn over by hand even when it's not ceased. If you think it was done right and want to break it free, I'd spray WD-40 or better yet this stuff called Blaster 50 that seems like a gimmick but it's sold in most auto parts stores. IMHO it works better than WD-40. Pull the spark plugs, spray a bunch in each cylinder. Then I'd take the air hose off my compressor and spray each hole, then repeat. Yeah, you might get a face full of the stuff, but it's going to force the spray around where you can't get to with just the spray can and force it down in the rings. You should know that more than likely there's going to be damage to the cylinder walls if the rings have rusted themselves to the walls. And the rings will most likely be frozen in the ring lands. This causes all kinds of probs like low compression, smoking, and high oil usage and fouling plugs. Once you sprayed the cyl's good, pull the flywheel cover off and get the proper flywheel wrench(it looks like a bar with a hook on it, it's made to grab the flywheel by grabbing the ring gear teeth) and see if you can break the rings free. Might take a while. And if it never comes free it probably means the reason the engine froze up was because the main and rod bearings either were not installed properly or they didn't get oil. Be prepared to find you need a whole new engine. Good luck.
If you are really restoring the vehicle, then it would be the sensible thing to tear the engine down and see what the issues are. What good is a restored vehicle if the engine is bad?
Antones on the money for preparing your motor, I will add drain and re-fill sump with good light (multigrade) oil, and if its a manual, my way of freeing up is to leave the spark plugs out and tow the car in high gear for a mile or two to get the oil pump to circulate so oil. The clutch may be frozen too so operate it while being towed will free it up. Lastley be care of the brakes too, as they need constant operation to work properly so test them after a long spell as well. Good luck from me too :-) R2
pls see my above posts, thx
You know, it's really tough to diagnose something when you don't have all the facts. Don't know the make/model/year. Do know now it's a straight 6, and a manual trans. But I'm sorry, unless I knew the person who did it, I'd not trust it. I don't know how you know it's siezed. Have you tried cranking it with the starter? Even an old loose 6cyl is hard to turn over with a breaker bar and you'd need 3/4" drive breaker with a cheater bar on it. Not a 1/2" drive as it will probably not be strong enough. And if it were me, I'd pull the distributor and use my adaptor and spin the oil pump up with a drill to get oil pressure before I started it. This way you pump up the lifters and also lube everything. I don't do the towing thing....too dangerous. But to each his own.
I agree on the towing. I did (do) know the person who rebuilt it and am confident was done correctly..
back in '75 cost $1100 for rebuilt so don't know if good price or not but all receipts are had.
ok will try getting oil pressure up, don't want to burn the dang thing out
thanks
some thing that may ell be worth considering is that valves are prone to seizing in the valve guides and that can cause the lock up . if this is to be the case remove the rocker shaft so all of thevalves should return to the closed position . if any of thevalves remain open at least you can see hich valves are seized as usually it is the ones that are open or partially open that suffer the worst of hat the elements can dish out. also seized valves are alot easier to free up with minimal effort .it can be done by spraying a fine oil don the ports at the stem of the valve let it soak after a couple of days add engine assembly lube to bengine oil and coat the offending valve guide and stem of valve with the rockers removed and the valve spring , retainer and collets still in place get a hammer and hitthe tip of the valve stem not hard enough to damage it but fairly direct most times you will see the valve return to the closed position . . this is a fairly common way that a sealed engine can seize but be manipulated to free up . then you just have to hopethat the valve seals on the seat that also has been exposed to oxygen causing rust and or corrosion
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thanks for the information:
thanks for the information:
Another guy told me that an engine does not "seize" from just sitting
Add a Commenthe said something else MUST be damaged, but I do not know because this is an in-line 6 cylinder and I know for a fact all pistons, rings, cyclinders re-bored, new head, new rods ground properly so on and so forth. I am inclined to agree with you that the rings may be rusted to the cylinder walls and just need to break free. I have also heard to engage the starter with the fluis suggested. or use a breaker bar and crank just a little at a time. also heard about putting 20-30 psi in a cylinder with the fluid you suggested
yes I trust it was rebuilt properly my dad was a mechanic and he took it to a guy for the rebuild. noi did not check the oil but i assume it is in since the last time it was driven and moved. yes it is a manual transmission
Big danger is thet it has broken crank or whatever. If not,
Add a Comment ooops sorry. Continuing - if motor just tight or rusted up a bit, 1> remove all spark plugs and distributor cap (to prevent ignition) and squirt in generous amount WD40 or similar, 2. Leave for at least a night, 3.Check oil & drain/refill sump if not happy, 4. get car to road and ready for towing 5. engage top gear and slowly tow for a second or two to free motor. slowly tow a mile or two to get oilpump pushing oil around, and the try starting. good luck.
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