Will it work for me to plug my parabolic, infrared heater into a properly rated rheostat?
What I want is my heater to run continually at 1/2 power, 1/3 power, or whatever power feels comfortable. And I really don't like how normal thermostats turns on and off repetitively. On a regular heater, on/off is fine. But, for this I would like continual, comfortable, regulated heat.
To me it seems like it would work fine. I think that's how standard electric stove tops are regulated.
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Re: Rheostat vs. Thermostat Temperature Control
Yes, it should work. Just ensure your rheostat will handle up to 1500 watts at reasonable settings. A better approach is a 1500 watt pulse-width modulator circuit that draws little power itself. these are available where power tools are sold (like harborfreight.com and known as speed controllers. I use one for a large air fan in my garage.
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Used to be vacuum controlled, but now the doors inside the heater/AC suitcase (housing under the dash for the heater and a/c unit) are electrical rheostat controlled, and tend to give problems. These rheostats open and close the doors used to control where hot air and cold air is tunneled to the dash vents. (the hot to cold dial on the dash is a rheostat which controls an electric motor connected to a door, which opens for hot air, and closes for cold air). The rheostat or motor, it controls, has gone bad. Find an independent garage that you like, (NOT the stealership) and the price to fix will be a lot cheaper and more reliable. Good Luck
Not much to a heater , you have a rheostat that goes from high to low heat . A coil or maybe two ,one for high heat and the other for low heat . Most of the time though they use just one with different voltage levels contrlled by the rheostat and a thermostat (keeps it from over amping the coils ). So it is one of the three ,I would guess the thermostat especilly if trhe coil is still in one piece. Rheostat you can test with an ohm meter to see if the value changes (Power Off!) and if it does it works. The coil if you have resistance its good (Power Off !) . Unless the resistance is real high then it could be in bad shape . The circut breaker is saving you from a house fire so thnk God for that. If it does it on low heat as well then I would suspect your coil if only on high Its definately your thermostat
1st -If you don't see how you can hook up 5 wires with 3 caps - you're forgetting the household cord wire. How to wire it correctly: This is how mine is wired (same brand perhaps a different mode)l: 1. Connect one side of the household current (big white wire) to the part going into the knob for the temperature control (the rheostat ) Put on one of the twisty plastic caps. - Now variable current is going into the heating elements. 2. Find the two wires coming out of the heater part. One carries the juice, the other goes back to complete the circuit. (Red & black are always IN current - white & blue are always return wires to complete circuits coming OUT of a device) 3. Connect the black motor wire to the red (juice carrying) wire from the heater. (put on a twisty cap) Now you have variable current going INTO the fan. 4. Connect up the rest to the other part of the big white plug to complete all the circuits. (should all be white or blue) Put on a twisty!
You're done. When testing be sure to not let the elements touch the plastic they can melt and stick to it very quickly. ----------------------------------------- How to bypass the switch if the motor isn't working: I would NOT recommend doing this for the heater element. You might cause fire. note: I had to bypass the rheostat for the fan because it was putting out enough current for the motor and the heater. In that case I only need two twisty caps.
Just hook the motor up directly with the juice going before the rheostat and then the rest of the outgoing circuits to the other return wire of the household electric cord. Now I vary the temperature but fan will run at a constant rate.
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Consider the wattage of the soldering iron. A good soldering iron will have wattage of 80 to 150. A wattage of lower than 80 is not ideal for stained glass. You need a soldering iron that will melt the solder fast enough for your project. Consider the type of temperature control you want. Some irons will have a temperature control built in the tip. When the temperature drops, it will turn on and when the temperature is reached, it will turn off. Other soldering irons have a built-in rheostat. You control the temperature by turning the dial up or down. A separate rheostat can be purchased to plug your soldiering iron into. Rheostats are highly recommended. This lets you match your temperature to your soldering style and allow you to do decorative effects.
Consider the heating element. There are two types of elements, ceramic or wire-wrapped. Ceramic core irons maintain heat more efficiently than wound wire heaters. In a ceramic core, the heater core extends into the tip for faster heat transfer. This will keep the tip hot for a longer period so you can work quickly and faster. Ceramic irons maintain their temperature longer and heat up within 30 to 60 seconds.
Consider the weight of the soldering iron. You want a soldering iron that is lightweight and balanced. You will have less fatigue when using a lightweight soldering iron at long stretches of time. Check to see if it fits your hand comfortably. Check to see if it has a good rubber cushion for your hand.
Check for the ease of changing tips on your soldering iron. When soldering stained glass, you want to match your tip to the technique you want to use. There are a variety of tips on the market for soldering irons, and you want to be able to change them easily.
Check the soldering iron to see if it has a heavy-duty cord and a three-prong plug. You want a grounded three-prong plug to prevent the possibility of shock.
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Is there a temp setting like hi,med,or low? That control works like a rheostat. If it is shorted it will keep the elements full powered and you will have this problem. Has the pressure relief vale gone off yet? Make sure it works so you don't have pressure damage to the plumbing . Now back to the thermostat. Try turning it all the way down. If it continues to heat, The rheostat is defective (temp control)
Try removing the vacuum hose at the back of the vacuum pump start the engine and see if you can feel it pulling a vacuum it should **** you're finger in a bit or if you have a vacuum gage hook that up and see what it readsshould be at least 12-15 in vacuum. Also is the heat stuck in defrost mode ?