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The purpose of the pressure switch is to verify the pool pump is operating properly and water pressure is present in the heating chamber. When water pressure is not present, the heater control system is designed to not allow initiation of flame. The pressure switch is preset at the factory for deck level installations. When the heater is located below the level of the spa or pool, the pressure switch may require an adjustment to compensate for the no-flow static head.
CAUTION: The Hayward Pool Heater is essentially a furnace. A trained technician should be consulted to repair it. DO NOT OPERATE the Hayward Pool Heater without a properly functioning and calibrated water pressure switch. The pressure switch adjustment requires both the pool pump and the heater be operational. As a result, extreme caution should be used during this procedure since sources of energy can not be isolated during the procedure.
The following procedure is recommended to calibrate the pressure switch.
1. The water pressure switch is located behind the front service panel. The pressure switch is typically on the left side, above the burners.
2. Be sure the water filter is clean before making the adjustment.
3. With the pump and heater system switch on, carefully turn the pressure switch adjustment dial clockwise, until a click is heard from the gas valve.
4. Turn the adjustment dial counterclockwise 1/4 turn.
5. Turn the pump off and on several times. The heater should shut off immediately when the pump is shut off. If the heater fails to shut down when the pump is off, repeat the steps above until the pressure switch is properly adjusted.
6. If the adjustment process fails to produce proper results the pressure switch should be replaced.
Your pressure washer is either not fitted with a run/stop device in which case like mine you have to switch off within a few seconds of closing the trigger. Check your model features?
The humming noise is the motor stalled out against the pump because there is nowhere for the water to go. The shutoff is caused by the safety overload switching off after overheat.
Or, it has a pressure operated run/stop which is not working. Because water and electricity don't mix, I would suggest getting more specific help. You can download Karcher manuals /spares lists online from Karcher specialists but remember electricity is the silent killer.
The switch is not the problem. The problem is the pressure tank. I am assuming you have a captive air tank with a bladder in it. The air pressure in the tank needs to be 2 lbs below the turn on pressure. Heres how to acheive that. Look at the pressure gauge on the pump and determine what pressure the pump is turning on. Next, turn the pump off and drain the pressure tank, then shut off the water to the whole house. If the pressure tank does not drain all the way, then you have a problem with the bladder in the tank. Once the tank is drained put the required amount of air in the tank. (if the pump turned on at 30 psi, then put 28 psi in the tank and if the pump turned on at 20, then put 18 psi in the tank) Check it with a tire gauge to confirm. Now turn the pump back on and see how it does. If done properly, your problem should be fixed. If it is a bad bladder, you will have to buy a new pressure tank.
Water pressure makes the unit kick on and off. Water could be leaking from the toilet tank into the bowl and from bowl into the pump. Or the check valve inside the discharge elbow (on top of the lid) may not be sitting properly or is being obstructed causing waste water to leak inside the pump, creating enough water pressure to make the unit kick on and off by itself.
I suggest you call tech support. I had a similar problem, and after walking me through a few tests, they determined it was likely a motherboard problem and are sending a new one. At 2 1/2 years, your unit should still be under warranty...
You are doing something wrong.It is usually a 30 second repair.Make sure you apply upward pressure as you turn the filter .Should go at least 180' .Water valve not under much pressure ,cant be water causing problem .Hope this helps
you say it sounds like air? air passing through a pump that also has a flow of water typically souds like bb's are passing trough the pump...if this is what you are hearing you may have a bad/cracked suction line or collapsed/dried up well..no way to know for sure without actually being there. otherwise adjust pressure switch to a higher shut off. or look for a bad valve. if a valve is not opening all the way it restricts flow hence it uses less water creating a cycling effect.best if you can hook a pressure gauge to the faucet to check pressure.