Question about Refrigerators
Top is freezing ive reset the temperature control to keep fridge cold and freezer frozen but no luck
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: AEG Santo Fridge 3774-6KA
Check the damper between the fridge and freezer. It may be broken or frozen open. If this happens and you have a water reservoir in the fridge then it could freeze and crack - leak and then flood your house... Shut off the water supply until you get the problem fixed.
Posted on Jan 20, 2008
First I would like to say thanks for all the information on the Fisher-Paykel active smart fridge freezer problems. This was a lot more useful than their customer support help line… After a week of hanging on for ten minutes without any answer I had a look on the net and found your site with descriptions of similar problems so I decided to investigate further
I have a Fisher Paykel fridge freezer (model 402B in the UK) about three years old. Although it didn’t seem to be as cold as normal, the first sign of a serious problem was when it started making a rattling or knocking noise from the freezer compartment. Looking inside it was obviously iced up solid and the noise was probably the fan catching the ice. So first thing I decided to try was a days de icing after which everything seemed ok except the green indicator light was now flashing about once every second.
Two weeks later it was badly iced up again so the problem was still there. At first I suspected the fans (which I could never see actually working). I disconnected one and tried it with a 6v torch battery and it spun ok. It was then I realised what was happening - the fans cut out whenever the door is opened so they are always stopped if you look inside.
A closer look at the aluminium heat exchanger(behind the plastic panel at the back of the freezer section) showed there was some kind of heater element clipped along the bottom with feed wires at either side. Obviousely part of the automatic de icing systems. It’s a bit tricky but there an electrical connector plug at the top and disconnecting this enables you to unclip the element and remove it (except that in this case one wire had been trapped at the wrong side of the coolant pipes when they had been fitted so it had to be snipped to get it out). Once out a circuit test showed there was no circuit through the element. So cutting into the two shrouded connections at each end of the element revealed some little components inside which I now know are “Thermal fuses”. One of these had “Blown”. There was a number on the side: - DF 72S which Google revealed is a thermal fuse set at 72 degrees. Although these are listed as spares in all sorts of places non was convenient to the UK. So I found a similar component at Maplins Electronics (R14) set at 92 degrees for just 69p! The reasoning being that the other thermal DF 72S fuse was still ok and the slightly higher use temp at the other end would still blow before anything melted!
By the way you cannot solder these things in so its best to use miniature screwed “block” connectors plus a good covering with insulation tape.
After putting it all back together its now been working for a month and no ice build up… The green light did still flash for a while but went out once the temperature dropped too normal freezing level.
Total cost of replacement parts was under £1 but it took a bit of time find the problem.
Posted on May 12, 2008
SOURCE: kenmore sideby side fridge
You have a defrost system problem. Defrost is controlled by a timer which energizes the heater circuit. The heater circuit has a radiant or cal rod type heater which melts the frost from the coil. When the coil reaches a temperature where all ice would be gone a termination switch opens and shuts of the heater. The timer will continue to run until defrost time expires (18-22 minutes).
If you can locate the timer there is a clutch head screw to advance the timer to the defrost position. Turn the screw clockwise SLOWLY until you hear one audible click. The heaters should come on and defrost take place. If the unit restarts after the 18-22 minute period the timer is good, if it does not restart advance the screw to a second audible click and it will restart.
If you had to turn the timer the to second click to get it started cooling replace the timer.
If the unit restarted after the 18-22 minutes and defrost did not happen your problem is in the heater circuit. This would be an open heater or bad defrost terminator switch. To access the heater and defrost terminator the back panel in the freezer section must be removed. With an Ohm meter you can check the heater to see if it is good.
Posted on Jul 02, 2008
I have the same problem and have talked to the manufacturer. They said to turn off the appliance for 24 hours then it should be good as new when you switch it back on. Obviously you'll have to find somewhere for your freezer contents. I'm going to try this myself tonight.
Posted on Feb 06, 2009
This is a drawback of most mini-fridges. Start by defrosting everything. Then fill ice cube trays with water and keep lowering the setting until the water freezes. Just go a little lower, no more. Fridge should not freeze food. If the fridge stays closed all the time food will freeze. Also if the freezer element gets ice buildup it must be defrosted. Not automatic like home fridge. Most kids today weren't born when the last fridges that had to be defrosted were in service.
Posted on Sep 01, 2009
Testimonial: "We're gonna try the steps you suggested right now. I figured it was something along those lines, but I wasn't entirely sure. Thanks for the help!!"
Tips for a great answer:
First some fridge 101, the refrigerator/freezer models cool by directly refrigerating the freezer section and the refrigerator section is cooled when "some" of the cold air from the freezer is directed over to the refrigerator side (typically by a fan) to keep food fresh and not frozen a temperature controlling damper opens and closes to regulate the temperature of the fridge by introducing more or below freezing air into the cabinet. In older models where the freezer was on top the air simply "gravity" drained into the refrigerator cabinet, if the food was too cold you turned the fridge knob up and less air sank from the freezer to the fridge, simple but effective.
When you adjust the temperature level it controls the freezer temperature and this turns the compressor on and off to keep the food frozen. There is typically a knob or lever and some even have electric dampers that open and close to direct more or less air from the freezer and direct it to the refrigerator cabinet based on your temperature requirements.
Now that you know how it works there are a couple things to check. If the condenser coil is plugged with dust the internal system pressure will rise and in some cases make the fridge an over achiever and can chill too much so check/clean the condenser coil. Check the freezer temperature control and turn in up, also make sure the fridge temperature control setting is not set too cold.
Finally as the temperature changes around the refrigerator it will have an effect on the inside of the fridge too so expect to turn it up and down as the environment changes, down in the summer and up in the winter.
Hope the novel helps to resolve your issues.
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