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Why doesn't my john deere gx335 lawn mower start again after I turn it off?

After mowing and turning the mower off, it will not start again when it is still hot. Could it be the ignition coils or what?

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 130 Answers

SOURCE: my john deere jx75 lawn mower won't start up.

There's a lot of safety features on tractors. Your owners manual would be the best place to check. I'll throw out a common spring time start up issue: dead battery. If you didn't have it on a trickle charger over the winter, tractor batteries die in 2 or 3 years. If it has started recently, check for a blown fuse.

For safety features, make sure you're sitting in the seat, brake on, clutch fully depressed, and any attachments (blades) disengaged.

Posted on May 02, 2009

  • 86 Answers

SOURCE: John Deere riding mower SRX95 - Steering wheel is sticking

You need to replace your Ball Joints! On the front steering rods There are two sometimes three !

Posted on May 09, 2009

  • 246 Answers

SOURCE: I have a John Deere Riding lawn mower which starts

Hello roobar2009:

>>From your Description it Sounds like a Carburetor Problem, a Bad Fuel Filter or Bad Gas.
>>If you have Changed the Filter and the Gas and the Problem is Still happening, then
>>The Following is a Simple Way to make Sure the Engine is Getting Gas from the Carburetor to Run.
>>If the Engine Starts and Quits, then Check the Carburetor Solenoid.
>>If the Carburetor Solenoid is Good or has been Removed and the Engine will Start and Quit when the Gas is Poured into the Carburetor Throat, then Soak and Clean the Carburetor.
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time.
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning.
>>You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve.
Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed.
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Needle Valve.
>>The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle.
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts.
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body.****
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body.
>>Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment (Except Tank Mounted 9200 and 100900 Engine Model Carburetors), Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle.
>>For the 9200 Model Tank Mounted Carburetor Adjust the Air Mixture Screw Full In, then Reverse 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Lever to Full Throttle and Start the Engine.
>>Now Carefully Use 1 Finger and Open the Throttle Plate and Over Rev the Engine Slightly. If the Engine Over Revs and Does Not Struggle to Over Rev, then the Carburetor is Set. If the Engine Struggles to Over Rev, then Turn the Adjustment Screw In 1/4 Turn and Repeat the Over Rev Test.
>>If you Adjust to 1/2 Turns In and the Engine Still Struggles to Over Rev, then Return the Adjustment Screw to 1 1/2 Turns Out from Snug and Turn the Screw Out 1/4 Turn. Do the Over Rev Test. Continue this Process Until you have the Engine Over Revving without Struggle.
>>By Adjusting the Carburetor on this Style Carburetor Until the Engine Over Revs without Struggle, you have Adjusted the Air Mixture to the Best Possible Setting.
>>This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components.
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links above Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use an Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.
>>1- http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If I Missed Something or you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)

Posted on May 17, 2009

  • 69 Answers

SOURCE: JOHN DEERE 318 LAWN TRACTOR WONT START

ok, since you have the points, I assume you have the B43g Onan
engine. Was it running before the new parts were installed?
Check your point gap and make sure it is .016, plugs ahould be gapped at .025 Make sure your plug wires are good too. Should be somewhere between 0 and 10,000 ohms per foot, when measured with an ohmmeter. Once everything is rechecked for gap distance, make sure there is no spark by pulling plug out, leaving wire on and ground the outside of plug to the chassis of the tractor.
Crank over and look for the spark. Coils are about $100, so you want to eliminate everything else first.
Diagnosing a points ignition for no spark is really simple. Do you have 12V at the coil? Do you get a spark when you connect and disconnect the negative terminal of the coil to ground? If not you have a bad coil.

Posted on May 19, 2009

SOURCE: john deere 111 mower deck. Lift is in stuck in highest position

Looked up detailed isometric diagram w/ parts denoted on John Deere website. FixYa website was a litele misleading. I did not realize that accessing a question posted "for free" would cost me something to get the answer. It's kind of like askin a neighbor as a neighbor to give you a hand and then he sends a bill.
Thanks but no thanks

Posted on Jun 26, 2009

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Does the mower die right away (cuts out) or does it sputter to a halt. Sputtering out would indicate a fuel problem. If it just cuts out when hot, then more likely an ignition problem. Your coil may need replacing. Take a close look at the coil wire (spark plug wire) and its routing. Make sure it's not touching part of the engine where it's heating up and has caused a "leak" to ground it out when it gets hot. If all is well then check your spark when the engine is hot and cuts out. Make sure you have a very good blue spark and not a weak one (check it cold first and then compare!). Again, indicating a possible ignition coil problem. Hope this helps and best of luck to you.
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