Question about Amana NFW7200TW 3.5 Cu. Ft. Front Load Washer

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Amana drain pump running erratically?

The drain pump on my Amana front loader washer is acting very erratic. Sometimes it will go through all cycles fine, others the drain pump will start running at around 14 min left and never shut off, even when it is filling or the time reaches 00. I think this caused the last pump to get too hot and crack the magnet. I just replaced the motor, still with the same issue. Some research has indicated that it may be the control panel acting up. Any words of wisdom for me that would indicate another problem?

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  • Expert
  • 92 Answers

Sounds like pump going sorry to say.

Posted on May 14, 2014

Testimonial: "The pump is fine. It is brand new. It just turns on when it should not."

  • Chris Smith May 14, 2014

    check connections or you could have got a bad pump .even if brand new theres always faulty equipment

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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dididsaythat
  • 291 Answers

SOURCE: Amana LWA40AL will not go to agitate cycle

Sounds like a timmer to me.. got a couple bad cycles too bad its the main cycle

Posted on Sep 05, 2007

ginko
  • 19396 Answers

SOURCE: Amana front loader washer Model#

It means there is a problem with electronics, Amana indications are to call the service

Posted on May 31, 2008

jumptrout51
  • 3361 Answers

SOURCE: amana washer only works on delicate cycle

Open the control panel. Unplug the timer and then plug it back in good and firm.
If it does not work correctly after that,
Replace your timer.

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

  • 98 Answers

SOURCE: Amana washer model LW6501W2 leaks in front during fill up

It leaks Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

  • Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


  • The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.


  • Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.


During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

  • Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


  • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.


  • Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.


  • Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

Posted on Apr 01, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Amana Touchmatic Heavy Duty Washer Filter Light Flashing

I have the same washer unit and I purchased my washer new in 1989. The flashing filter light is normal. If the light doesn't flash, than the water filter is plugged up. The water filter is self cleaning each time the water empties. You can take off the front panel(two screws at the bottom and the top disengages with metal clips. The water filter in at the bottom on the right, white plastic housing. There is a drive belt from the motor that powers the pump. When the washer goes into the spin cycle, the motor changes rotation direction and the pump works in reverse, thus flushing out the lint that may have been captured during the agitation cycle. I hope this helps.

Posted on Jun 23, 2009

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Washer has code nd wont drain and signals long beeps ,replaced pump and have the same problem hoses drained and didnt see any obstructions,old pump looks ok,matt


you probably used too much detergent or the wrong type. These new front loaders take no-suds detergent, a shot glass half full worth. The suds get in the water level tube and the level sensor and everywhere else, and cause mayhem. Run some loads with no detergent at all to try to clean the suds out. If the thing works like it should sometimes, it's a cheap fix. The brain power to find a problem and fix it for good, not so cheap. Water Level Switch 25315479-zejmo41uy3tce5x43qikgza0-5-0.jpg

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Hi Ben
I see you have posted on this before , I think you may have done this already judging from your post , but have you checked the filter on the drain pump? also when you run a cycle empty, is it filling and draining the water correctly , or is there water left in the machine , and last is the drain hose high enough to make sure that there is not a "syphoning" effect taking place as in when it fills with water it drains at the same time , just a thought let me know.

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The control monitors the door lock prior to and during the spin cycle as a safety feature. The washer will not advance to the spin cycle when the door lock is not activated and stops when the lock is deactivated during the spin cycle.

In your case, the door lock is working intermittently causing the washer to spin intermittently. This is probably due to a faulty door lock and switch assembly or poor connection at the control board or at the assembly itself. Replace the door lock and switch assembly if necessary.

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It sounds like your UIB is the problem.

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