Question about GE Monogram ZET3058SHSS Stainless Steel Electric Double Oven

Open Question

I have a GE Monogram double wall oven. Both ovens seem to be having the same problem - 1st the lower oven and now the upper oven. Oven flashes F1. I let oven cool. Reset - it runs. For a period of weeks. Now no more F1 - but when I set the oven - temp. starts to raise, but oven automatically shuts off long before reaching temp. Is this a computer problem or something else - like the coils are old and need replacement?.

Posted by Anonymous on

Ad

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad
catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: Electric Oven doen't heat

cdkd, there should be a TC0, on the back of the oven. Thermal cut out. You want to check to see if it is open. You will have to pull the oven out enough that you can remove the back panel cover and check it. The lower and upper oven should have one. It's a very cheap part to replace. If this TCO fails, no heat. Check this first before buying a new board. Catriver..post back.

Posted on Dec 27, 2006

Ad
  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: my GE double oven is flashing F1 and beeping

My F1 began beeping incessantly this month after a gradual increase in sensed ambient temperature over about a year.  If the oven was turned off, it would beep no matter what I did to try to clear the fault.  I actually had to turn off the power at the fuse box to make the beeping stop, - or I could turn on the oven and just leave it at 150º if I wasn't using it, which would also make it stop. The heating elements were not kicking in until the setting was over 185º, which was the gradually developing problem over about a year.  It was getting so we had to turn the oven all the way up to 550º just to get it to 375º.  I thought it was the temp sensor so I replaced it, but that had no effect.  Then I bought a new module by calling the GE Number in the manual for parts, and it came in 2 days, and I installed it, and it works fine now.  Cost of module: incl shipping / tax: $308    I re-installed and am still using the old temp sensor.   If you unscrew the top two screws on the grey sheet-steel flange that screw into your cabinetry, the whole oven slides out of the wall opening. Get a dolly and some supports and you can pull it completely out of the wall and roll it arround for access to the back.  To replace the module, you only have to slide the oven  about 3/4ths of the way out, then you could unscrew the sheet metal screws at the middle of the top panel and just work underneath the lifted sheet metal.   Be sure and take the doors off!

Posted on Oct 28, 2007

  • 3230 Answers

SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp

The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

  • 10865 Answers

SOURCE: Bottom oven doesn't heat after running self-clean cycle

Usually, when an oven won't heat, it's because the bake element is burned out. The bake element is the black, pencil- thick tube at the bottom of the oven. When the oven heats, the element glows red. This element has an expected life-span of several years. It may last for only one; it may last for many more. When the element burns out, you need to replace it.

Posted on Aug 17, 2009

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: GE Double Oven JKP45BA, lower oven wont heat

Hi,
If your electric2_bing.gif oven is not heating then you probably have a bad heating lelement in your oven. This is not that hard to fix yourself...
Check out this tip that I wrote about the Oven not heating problem..

Oven Problems Electric2_bing.gif Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4511800-oven_problems_electric_oven_heating

heatman101

Posted on Jul 30, 2010

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

I have GE model#JKP45WOP2WG double oven wall unit. Lower oven isn't heating up properly. Bottom of lower oven doesn't seem as hot as the top of the oven... replaced oven sensor, not


Most double wall ovens are technically two separate oven boxes. The lower oven box has its bake, boil elements, high limit thermostat and ofcourse its own oven sensor. If the lower oven box boil is working good and less heat on bake feature may suggest that the bake element is burned out and only getting preheated with boil element. Just a suggestion here

Dec 05, 2014 | GE Ovens

1 Answer

Our monogram double wall oven has a f7 code on the control panel. None of the buttons appear to be working, except clear, which clears the code. Then still no buttons work, and the f7 code comes back. What...


It's most likely that the error code you are seeing is F1, not F7. F1 is a code for 'stuck touch pad'. You will need to replace the clock/ERC or the touch pad (or both).

Feb 28, 2011 | GE Monogram ZET3058SHSS Stainless Steel...

1 Answer

Error Code -F1- and Broken glass door


Welcome to fixya.com f- 1 is the electronic key pad a key is stuck and usually you will need to replace the key pad site to obtain parts is partsselect.com but before you do disconnect power to unit for 15 min then re connect power to see if unit reset its self. And at Parts select.com you can order the glass you need, Regards, Lee Davidian

Apr 19, 2010 | GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

F2 Failure Code after cleaning cycle on GE Double


f-2 is usually a runaway oven temp which most of the time means a bad oven sensor.try replacing this first.

Jan 16, 2010 | GE Ovens

1 Answer

The upper and lower oven will not turn on there is power to it and clock and oven lights work there is an FO red light that comes on and beeps and flashes


Built In Oven Fault Codes
F0 or F1 - Failed transistor in control - If code cannot be cancelled, replace the Electronic Range Control (ERC) or touch pad

Sep 21, 2009 | GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

F1 error/touch panel not working on GE Monogram Dual Oven


Usually, the F1 means that either the touch pad or the oven control (also called clock or ERC) is defective and needs to be replaced. If this fault code cannot be canceled, replace the oven control (also called clock or ERC), touch pad, or both.

I recommend a service call for this repair.

Jun 02, 2009 | GE Monogram ZET3058SHSS Stainless Steel...

1 Answer

TOp Oven Light ..


if its a brand new unit (still in waranty) make the service call

Aug 30, 2008 | GE Monogram ZET3058SHSS Stainless Steel...

1 Answer

Ge monogram single convection wall oven


There is usually a micro switch that is activated when the lock lever is in place - very likely this switch is still activated or has failed closed (defective) .

Aug 26, 2008 | GE Monogram ZET3058SHSS Stainless Steel...

Not finding what you are looking for?
GE Monogram ZET3058SHSS Stainless Steel Electric Double Oven Logo

Related Topics:

43 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top GE Ovens Experts

William Miller
William Miller

Level 3 Expert

9047 Answers

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8220 Answers

 Fix Your Board
Fix Your Board

Level 3 Expert

310 Answers

Are you a GE Oven Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...