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Philips faults The heated trolley is over heating We have replaced the element without success as it continues to overheat. There does not appear to be a thermostat with this model ( it is about 30 years old ) well loved and used about 4 times a year!!! Can you suggest anything please ?

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  • Master
  • 2,509 Answers

No model number given but my guess is there is a thermostat. Are you saying the mains goes directly to the element with no over temp protection? Seems unlikely
I'm impressed that you got an element for a 30 year old trolley. If it used to work, unless you have been very unlucky it is unlikely (but not impossible) that both elements have gone low resistance the same way. Disconnect the mains and measure the elements resistances (both) with a test meter. what is the quoted wattage and what is your line voltage? (I don't know if you are 220,240 or 110). report back

Posted on May 13, 2014

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SOURCE: Philips 42" Flat Screen Plasma - blinking red light 7 times - HELP please!

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Posted on Dec 12, 2009

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SOURCE: Problem with Hitachi P50H401 Plasma TV - Will not

I have the same model, P50H401 and it developed the same problem two days ago. This set is 2 1/2 years old in service, being purchased in December 2007. The original manufacture date was October 2007.

The set was turned on and operating at the time and then promptly shut down by itself. The front blue LED power indicator began flashing four times in a loop or cycle.

The flashing LED sequence in this instance points to a problem with one of the following boards: PSU, X-Sus, Y-Sus or SDRs (there are two SDR boards, SDR-U and SDR-D, both are connected off of the Y-Sus board on the left hand side of the frame when rear facing). The set shuts down to prevent further damage to other boards or components.

I could power cycle the set but it would shut down after after a few seconds. Power LED would stay solid, I could hear the PS relays switching, and audio would output through the speakers. Then as the screen was just about to illuminate, the entire set would just shutdown. The blue LED would again go into the 4X flashing sequence.

I could not visually detect any signs of severe component damage on the main PS board. The two large electrolytic capacitors which have been mentioned as problematic in other threads seems fine. The where slightly raised on the top surface, but not blistered or completely blown open.

The only indication of component damage that I could detect visually was on one of the small surface mounted ICs on the SDR-U board.

Through reading other posts on this site, I learned that I was able to remove the suspect SDR-U board and then re-power the set. Doing this proved that the PS, X and Y Sus, and the SDR-D boards where o.k. The PS held, and the lower half of the screen illuminated. (I would only do this for as brief a period as required to determine if the the other boards would function and the screen would illuminate. Do not pro-long operation in this state so as to not cause further damage.)

It was somewhat difficult to locate the correct SDR-U board. My local service rep did not have one in stock, and the Canadian parts distributor was also out of stock. They estimated 10 - 14 business days to order one up from the U.S.A. (Hitachi closed their consumer electronics division in Canada back in 2009.)

By chance, I checked with another service rep in an adjacent town. He had a board for the P55. We did a visual comparison on the two boards and determined that it would be compatable.

The easy part was removing the defective SDR-U board and installing the replacement. The hard part was re-alinging the three ribbon tabs into the respective connectors on the SDR board. Be careful with these ribbons. The other end of each is fused to the plasma panel screen, so if you damage them, your screen is rendered useless.

I initially had the same problems as others have posted with having black or gray lines on the screen when the SDR-U was replaced. After gently adjusting the position of the ribbons as they are seated in the connectors, the lines disappeared. This was a slow and frustrating procedure, but it worked, Be patient.






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stihl_070509
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SOURCE: I have a Sony KDL40W4500

hi,
T-Con board failure or poor connection of flexible wire and LVDS cable. Sometimes these connection loosen up from their terminals. Try to unplug and reconnect these cables to refresh the connections. If the symptoms still persist you need to replace the T-Con board. T-Con board is installed on the upper side of your LCD TV and it has two flexible wire connected to LCD PANEL . stihl_070509.jpg

Posted on Jan 05, 2011

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1 Answer

Pulled out heating element both black wires connecting heating element are burned is this mean its a faulty heating element


Hi franklin bai

Yes the element is faulty...replace it...but also check some other things...see below

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks.
If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the
wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed
component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame.
Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.
Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed.
If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause
heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the
thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape
or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged
with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's
plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace an element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Apr 16, 2011 | Amana NDE2335AY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

No heat


ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Sounds like your problem may be with the heating coil. Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For further instructions on how to replace the element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Oct 02, 2010 | Roper Dryers

1 Answer

Coffee pot will turn on but nothing else happens.


If you feel capable of safely opening your device (disconnected from the mains) check the continuity between the thermal overheat device and the heating element.

If it is open circuit, replace the thermal cutout like-for-like. If it is closed circuit, check continuity on the heating element.

If the heating element is open circuit then it will require replacement.

Mar 25, 2010 | Black & Decker Coffee Makers & Espresso...

1 Answer

Have a Kenmore Elite Mod#11062932100 It will run but has no heat. The heating element appears to have continuity. What can it be and haow do I test for them?


on the element housing u have overheat safeties they r round unplug unit and take wires off safeties and check for continuity thru each one also unhook dryer vent on back and see if this clears up problem if the hose being off fixes it u have a restriction or a kinked hose hope this helps

Feb 24, 2010 | Kenmore 64902 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Workes fine no heat


the temperature thermostats and or heater are bad, on electricdryers, you can ohm out to see what is defective.

There's no heat dot_lineone.gif 1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.

electric dryer

1 Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

2 Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Oct 27, 2009 | Candy CDC266 Dryer

1 Answer

F-08 error message on Hotpoint Washing machine WT761? The original fault on the machine was that it was tripping out and taking out a resetable fuse in my fuse box a few seconds after turning the machine...


If it works fine with the heater off then i would say that fault appears to be element..the readings you get seem okay, put you meter onto megs and check, with wires off if you get electrical leakage between live and earth...Body....of element, it could be element is heating with no water in machine causing it to burn out..this is a problem with this machine...Wish you well

Oct 07, 2009 | Hotpoint Aquarius WF220 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

IT RUNS BUT DOES NOT PUT OUT HEAT


Check the following to combat this issue.


Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Jun 19, 2009 | Hotpoint NVL333EY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Does not heat. Heating element was replaced and


Check the following to address this issue.


1. A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

2. Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

If all checks out OK above, replace the main control board.




Jun 17, 2009 | Samsung DV328AE Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My dryer isn't heating, but runs


Check the following to address this issue.


Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Jun 13, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

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