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Husqvarna 128ldx - how can one disassemble the clutch drum ?

The drum clutch has to be replaced by a new one, a new spare part

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5 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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steve_lima
  • 181 Answers

SOURCE: Husqvarna 357xp rim sprocket problem

there is a special tool to remove the clutch properly with out damage to the clutch or springs.it is so much easier to take it in some where and have the proper tool used.the tool is $45.00 to $65.00 to buy one.most dealer will only charge you a couple of bucks to remove it and install one for you,it only take a second to do.I,myself have made a couple of differant ones because chainsaw differ so much.let me know and maybe i can get you a picture of the one you need

Posted on Feb 11, 2009

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steve_lima
  • 181 Answers

SOURCE: clutch drum

here is a breakdown of that saw http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order/ipl/doxWeb_frameset.jsp?serverName=weborder.husqvarna.com&pdfPath=http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/USA/2001/I01000/I0101088.pdfw.look on page seven 7.shows the tool and gives part number.........

Posted on Jun 02, 2009

dontbother10
  • 2220 Answers

SOURCE: How to remove a clutch drum assy.

A serial would have been helpful. She has an outboard clutch (chain between clutch drum and engine). Use this as a guide:
R² Drive Link Outboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdqkIuVNUQc

  1. Check the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed. Poulan (Craftsman, Jonsered, Husky) clutch removal tool part number 530031112 if needed, is under $5 from many sources,
  2. There are metal piston stops available, when square (almost never) with the piston top these work well, if not square they have been known to punch through the piston. I suggest a length of starter cord or nylon rope be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make sure the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
  3. Everyone I have ever removed had a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it).
This often helpful too:
HusqvarnaUSA.com
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/
Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers)
Serial number decode – useful when downloading IPLs and Manuals
06 1500198
06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000)
15 = week produced - March
00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week
Good Luck, If you need any more help you can can reply below.
Lou

Posted on Jan 18, 2010

dontbother10
  • 2220 Answers

SOURCE: cannot reassemble brake band assembly to clutch drum

The brake was engaged when removed. The Illustrated Parts List (IPL) here shows how the majority of components fit together. The brake needs to be released to clear the clutch drum.
Secure the clutch cover (it requires quite a bit of force), with a couple of blocks of wood, in a large vise or a C-clamp on a work surface.

a6b1240.gif
Use a pair of pliers or a crescent and rotate the spoked part CW until it latches. This one is latched.

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Good Luck. HTH
Lou
Thank You for using FixYa.

Posted on Apr 17, 2010

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This unit has had some issues with the drive shaft coming out of the clutch drum. make sure the drive shaft fully fits into the clutch drum.

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How to remove the clutch & sprocket from Husqvarna chainsaw


The clutch type on Husqvarna chainsaws fall into two types, inboard clutch, this is where the drum is on the outside of the clutch, and held on with a clip, and outboard clutch, where the clutch is on the outside of the drum and holds the drum on. There are a number of reasons as to why you may need to remove the clutch and drum, to replace a broken spring, to replace the whole clutch,to lubricate the drum bearing, or replace the sprocket. On the pro saw range it is possible with outboard clutches to grease the drum bearing through the end of the crankshaft, there is a channel to the bearing from the outside, this is not possible on hobby, and domestic saws.
All Husqvarna clutches are just spun onto the crankshaft, with a left hand thread to make them self tightening, due to this they should NEVER be run with the bar and chain removed,and the clutch in place, or there is a very good chance the clutch will spin off on the over run, and can cause serious injury. Clutches should be jarred off against the compression of the saw, many have a 19mm nut on the outside so as to fit a socket, or the combination spanner supplied with the saw, the quickest way to remove this clutch is with an air impact wrench. If there is no nut on the outside, there will very likley be two cut a ways in the clutch spider, these are designed to take a flat screw driver blade, and with a suitable hammer you can strike the screw driver and jarr the clutch off, there is also a special tool for this type of out board clutch, it fits into the sides of the clutch with a 19mm nut on the outside part no. 502541601 available from Husqvarna dealers. The hobby saws from Husqvarna are produced in America, and as such use the Poulon clutch, this clutch should never be struck with a hammer, it is made from a sintered material and will shatter, there is a special tool to remove this clutch part no. 530031112.
The inboard clutch on the 371/372/365 also has a special tool available so as to use a 19mm socket, part no. 502522201.
The tool for the 357 clutch is part no. 502522202.
As a personal thing i never use piston stops, i have seen too much damage to internal engine parts when useing these, it is far better to jar the clutch off. As a rule of thumb you should not be able to pull the clutch shoes out by hand, if you can, the spring.springs are weak and require replacement, the clutch soes are also shamffered on there edge, the bottom of which is the wear limit.

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What causes the Clutch drum gear that drive the chain to go bad ? my chain eats a groove all the way through it aftr about 12 hrs of cutting I have replaced it 3 times now.


The chain you should be using should be a .325 pitch and not a 3/8.

Never over tighten the chain, it will wear and stretch with time, which is why you should regularly check the chain tension. To get it right you should be able to lift 2 drive links clear of the bar. The chain will naturally wear groves into the spur sprocket, there is no conversion to a rim spricket for this model. Rim sprockets allow the chain to move along the sprocket easier and takes the wear away form the clutch drum.

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Chain keeps running after backing off throttle. I presume it's the clutch. After inspection I noticed the clutch drum is not round and has up and down movement. Is this normal and am I going up the right...


No, that's not at all normal. The clutch drum must be round and the bearing that supports it must have no play in it.

Just put a new clutch drum and bearing on, Check the center section of the clutch carefully, be sure it's not all overheated like it would be if it were slipping and heated the drum so much that it could be forced out of round by the clutch weights. If in doubt, replace the whole thing.

lp

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2 Answers

Cannot reassemble brake band assembly to clutch drum


The brake was engaged when removed. The Illustrated Parts List (IPL) here shows how the majority of components fit together. The brake needs to be released to clear the clutch drum.
Secure the clutch cover (it requires quite a bit of force), with a couple of blocks of wood, in a large vise or a C-clamp on a work surface.

a6b1240.gif
Use a pair of pliers or a crescent and rotate the spoked part CW until it latches. This one is latched.

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Good Luck. HTH
Lou
Thank You for using FixYa.

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