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Why is my Sharp Microwave Drawer KB-1614LS not heating?

My Sharp Microwave Drawer KB-1614LS suddenly stopped heating, while everything else appears to operate normally. I've tested 5 door switches, 2 thermal cut-outs, 2 relays, the magnetron, HV capacitor and diode, power transformer, stirrer motor and fan -- but all checks out. I cleaned magnetron cooling fins (they were black and greasy on one side)and waveguide cover. Have I missed something? I do worry that I didn't correctly perform the HV diode and transformer tests, as they were trickier: 1. I tested the HV diode with a 9V battery b/c my multimeter only goes up to 20M ohms. Not sure if I did that right. 2. I couldn't identify all the coil testing locations on the power transformer [instructions read: Disconnect the primary input terminals and measure the resistance of the transformer with an ohmmeter. Check for continuity of the coils with an ohmmeter. On the R x 1 scale, the resistance of the primary coil should be less than 1 ohm and the resistance of the high voltage coil should be approximately 90 ohms; the resistance of the filament coil should be less than 1 ohm]. I'd appreciate help with those tests and any other ideas. I'm already sick of this microwave!! Thanks

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  • Contributor
  • 15 Answers

You should check for 3 volts on sec coil supply for magnetron but do this check with the hv capacitor and hvr disconnected if 3volts is present , most probably your magnetron is deffective, replace it with the same type

Posted on May 15, 2014

  • Ley M
    Ley M May 15, 2014

    I'm not familiar with that test, so just to be clear... I'll be reading AC voltage on my multimeter, one lead on transformer secondary coil output and the other on chassis. Transformer primaries connected, HV capacitor and diode disconnected, microwave plugged in. Two questions: Should magnetron be disconnected? Do I need to test during cook cycle?

  • Ley M
    Ley M May 15, 2014

    Thanks so much!

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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MicrowaveSvc
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SOURCE: Oven won't heat even though each component seems to be functional.

Even though the magnetron passed the continuity tests, it can still be bad. In fact, most of them fail in ways that do not show up in continuity tests.

And I am 99% certain yours is bad, especially since you have proven that the filament voltage and high voltage DC is being produced and sent to the magnetron.

I must say that the testing you have done is not recommended for people without plenty of experience, but apparently you did it safely. Please don't press your luck, since the high voltage can be instantly lethal.

For Goldstar / LG / L.G. parts, call 1-800-243-0000 (M-F, 7am-8pm CT, Sat 8-5 CT) and choose the appropriate prompt from the menu or visit here.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Jul 18, 2008

  • 44271 Answers

SOURCE: Blown fuses

Well you certainly have done a lot of work on a microwave that is not worth the effort. When fuses blow and destroy other items ,it is time to junk it and up date. I have found that when something like what happens 9 times out of 10 it will be the magnetron or transformer either of which will be more than 1/2 the cost of a new machine.

Posted on May 18, 2013

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You can check out these links to buy Sharp Microwave in UK:


Link 1

Link 2


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The drawer often stops working when it is abruptly stopped while opening and forced closed or vice-versa. To fix, simply do the following:
1) Push the draw all the way closed
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It will have a one year warranty.

I would contact Sharp for their nearest authorized servicer.

You can contact Sharp at 1-800-BE-SHARP (1-800-237-4277) or visit them online.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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Had problem with Sharp R-520L. Microwave suddenly


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I found this on another blog and it worked for me.


Model #KB6024MK, this is a Sharp microwave drawer that would open and close properly, but when started would not heat. These drawer units will sometimes close properly, but not enough to actuate the interlock switches to power the magnetron. A quick test is to turn the unit on and press in on the drawer handle while it is running. If you start hearing the low hum of the magnetron, the interlock assembly is out of adjustment. Removed the left side panel and gained access to the switch mounts to do a quick adjustment so when the drawer closes, the switches close properly to allow operation. It may take more than one adjustment to make it work properly so test it several times before reinstalling the side panel. It should work properly when the drawer auto closes and should not require any manual manipulation from the user.

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The first thing I would suggest is a hard reset. Unplug the unit for a minute or so. Then plug it back in, set the clock and try again.

But if the oven light is getting power when you try to cook, but the oven won't heat, the next question is this: Does it sound louder or quieter than normal?

If quieter, I would suspect a relay or connection on the control panel.

If louder, I would suspect a shorted high voltage diode or a bad magnetron.

Since it's less than one year old, it should be fully covered under warranty. I'd suggest contacting the manufacturer to get it fixed free.

You can contact Sharp at 1-800-BE-SHARP (1-800-237-4277) or visit them online to arrange service.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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