Question about Whirlpool ED5DHEXWQ 25.3 cu. ft. Side by Side Refrigerator with Adjustable SpillGuard Glass Shelves, Adjustable Opaque Gallon Door Bins, Snack Pan, Adaptive Defrost System, External Ice/Water Dispenser, Up-Front Temperature Controls and Smooth Doors: White

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Back door of icemaker is fozen,cannot be fixed

I have given enough detail,can you have somebody i can call

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  • luis pajares
    luis pajares May 13, 2014

    is there anybody that can talk english on the phone

  • luis pajares
    luis pajares May 13, 2014

    where can i trade ref. ed5dhexwq, forGE,with a reliable icemaker

  • luis pajares
    luis pajares May 13, 2014

    paid $85.00 for rep. to tell me,icemaker cannot be repair



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Unplug your unit and let it sit for 24 hours. It will melt the ice and then you can dump the overflow tray located on the bottom of the unit. You may have to remove the guard in front to access the overflow water tray.

Posted on May 13, 2014


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Heater not getting hot enough

Open the access door to the thermostat ( about 3" wide & 9" high, two screws) At the bottom of the thermostat there is an adjustment screw on an arrow and dial. Factory settings are at 120% for residential heaters. Reset to 135% is hot but it will not scald anyone. Higher temps are dangerous especially to those used to the old setting (if there are 2 doors reset both thermostats)

Jan 31, 2015 | Water Water Heaters


How to fix a door that won't latch

Do you have a door that you have to lift up or push down or close very hard before it will latch? I have dealt with this problem many times. It can be very satisfying to fix, and it's usually not very hard to do.

Old houses (and not-so-old houses) often settle over time. This can shift walls and door jambs, causing misalignment. Or the hinges wear down a bit causing some sag. Or sometimes the problem is just that the door or the door jamb has warped a bit. I'll cover the fixes in order from simplest to more complex. See the picture of a door at the bottom for reference.
Before doing any surgery, start with the obvious. Are the screws in the hinges tight? If the top ones are loose, then the door will sag. Usually you can just tighten them up. But sometimes you can't because the screw holes in the door jamb are stripped. You can try stuffing a couple of tooth picks or little metal strips in the hole, but that is not always going to work. The best thing to do is to get some 3 inch screws (of about the same diameter as the originals). The original screws only went into the door jamb,which is only 3/4 inch thick. But about an inch beyond the door jamb in the wall is a two by four that the 3 inch screws can bite into. Be careful you don't over-tighten the long screws so much that you distort the door jamb.

OK, now the hinges are OK, but suppose the door still doesn't latch right. On the opposite side of the door frame (where the hinges are not), there is a little metal plate called a strike-plate. It has a hole init that the plunger from the door is supposed to fit into. (The plunger is the thumb-sized spring-loaded tab that sticks out from the edge of the the door and retracts when you turn the door-knob.) The problem is that the plunger is not aligned correctly with the hole in the strike plate. In older homes (say over 50 years) it is usually a vertical misalignment (that is, the hole is too high or too low). Or it can be the case that the door doesn't quite close far enough for the plunger to reach the hole. Get down on your knees and look closely at the position of the plunger relative to the hole in the strike plate as you slowly open and close the door. (Don't get a black-eye when another member of your household tries to enter the room!)

Once you identify the misalignment, here's how to fix it if the misalignment is not very great. Mark the strike plate with a sharpie to indicate where the hole needs to be enlarged. Remove the two screws holding the strike plate, and remove the strike plate. Use some tape on the door to hold the plunger in temporarily - this will prevent damage to your door jamb while the strike plate is removed.

Hold the strike plate in a vise and enlarge the hole with a file. If you don't have a vise or an appropriate file, find someone who does to help you. Put the strike plate back on, and you should be in business.

If the amount you have to enlarge the hole is so great that to do so would obliterate one of the screw holes in the strike plate, then you will need to move the strike plate instead of enlarging the hole. You don't want to move the strike plate unless you have too. If you try to move it less than about 1/4 inch you will have trouble getting the screws to grab on in new holes instead of the old holes. Before you commit to moving the strike plate, remove it and hold it in place where you would like to be. See where the new screw holes will have to be. If you have wood where the screws need to go,then mark and drill new holes for the screws. You will also need to use a chisel to remove a bit of the jamb so that the strike plate can sit flush. But before you start to chisel, put the strike plate in place temporarily with the screws. Now use a sharp knife to cut the outline of the strike plate. Remove the strike plate and then use a sharp chisel to carefully cut the depression (it’scalled a mortise) that you need. You may also need to enlarge the clearance hole in the door jamb (for the plunger).

But what do you do if area of the door jamb where the strikeplate goes is just in too sorry shape to fix it? In this case you need to start over with a fresh wood surface for the strike plate. This is best done using a router. You will need to contrive a fixture so that you can guide a router to cut out a nice neat rectangle ½ inch deep out of the door jamb where the strike plate was. This rectangle should be about 3 inches longer than the strike plate. You will probably have to remove the casing so that you don’t cut it with the router, but you only need to lift if off about 1inch in the area of the strike plate. You might also need to remove the stop from that side of the jamb so that you have a level surface to work from, but you might be able to make your fixture work around that if you use a guide bushingon the router. After cutting out the rectangle, cut a piece of ¾ wood to fit the rectangle and glue it in place. After the glue dries, plane it down flush with the jamb and fit the strike plate where you need it.

If you would like more detailed info on this last method using a router, please add comments and I’ll expand this or write another tip.


on Apr 06, 2010 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

How do you turn up the temperature on electric mode on my Suburban SW12DE water heater

If your heater is like most electric heaters the thermostat to turn up the heat is inside and behind the little trap door in the top on the side where there is a door that is held on with a little bolt you take out with a screwdriver. You take this door off and possibly pull the insulation out a bit and there should be a little dial you turn. Also check the bottom as well. Not sure if there is one on the bottom. Just don't turn it too high as you could burn somebody with boiling water.

Jan 03, 2015 | Water Water Heaters

1 Answer

Whirlpool French door not making ice, but can get water. I had the water valve replaced and it still does not make ice help

Okay, here's a bunch of info in the order I would troubleshoot since the one year warranty expired.

1) The water filter might be clogged. Try just removing it to see if it makes ice. If it does change the water filter.

2) The water inlet valve might (still) be defective. The water inlet valve is an electro-mechanical valve. The coil can show good for continuity and still not let the water thru although you didn't say if it worked when he left. if recently replaced it should be under his warranty.

3) The water pressure in the house might be too low. The water inlet valve which supplies water to the ice maker is designed to work with a minimum of 20 psi of water pressure.

4) The door switch might be defective. When the freezer door is opened the freezer door switch does two things, it turns on the light in the freezer and turns off the ice maker and dispenser. If the door switch fails the dispenser will not turn on. The switch can be checked for continuity with an Ohm meter. If it doesn't have continuity it should be replaced.
5) It could be that the ice maker assembly itself is defective. The freezer temp should be between 0-5 degrees for the ice maker to cycle properly. There are several components in the control module of the ice maker that can fail and most are not sold separately. Also, ice makers have a relatively short lifespan and so it might not be worth fixing. If other, simpler parts like the water inlet valve or shut off arm have been ruled out, and the only thing left is the ice maker itself, replace it as a unit. Not as expensive as you may think...Under $100

6) The icemaker module at the front might also be defective. The module has a motor that cycles the ice ejector arms around to push the ice cubes out when the ice maker thermostat closes. It also has contacts in it for the mold heater and water inlet valve. The motor or contacts of the module can fail. Usually there are test points in the module that a service person can use to determine if there is a problem with it or one of the related ice maker components.

7) The icemaker mold thermostat might be defective. Inside the control module of the ice maker is a thermostat which monitors the temperature of the ice mold (ice tray). Once the mold reaches the proper temperature the ice maker starts a harvest cycle by ejecting the ice cubes and refilling with water. If the mold thermostat is defective the ice maker doesn't advance. The thermostat can be checked for continuity. Replace it as needed.The freezer temp should be between 0-5 degrees for optimum performance.

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1 Answer

Cannot light flame

Not enough information is given. Add a comment for additional help.
Does water heater have instructions printed on side of heater?
Are you trying to light pilot light?
What happens when you try to light the water heater?

Sep 11, 2011 | Rheem 50 Gallon FVR NATGAS Water Heater...

1 Answer

My tank-less water heater keeps erroring and has to be reset. This has become a more frequent problem, in fact it happened twice yesterday. The tank is in use with three water furnaces and a back up...

I am a free answerer, and I specialize in giving you resources for free
The paid answerers may have a person who knows your product and the problems associated with your model.
I believe they offer a refund if the 'fix' doesn't work.
The manual might also have troubleshooting.

Each day I see 20-25 unanswered questions about tankless water heaters.
And the day before, there were same number of unanswered questions about tankless products.
The number of questions shows the complexity of the machines, the brand-specific-ness of the problems, and the inability of the manufactures to take care of their customers.
If I understand correctly, the manufacturer will refer you to the installer.
There are not many ways a do-it-yourself-er can fix a tankless.
And a repair generally takes somebody trained by the manufacturer.

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Clean the air filter even if it looks clean. The air filter is located in the front panel(unscrew knob to open door)...filter looked ok to me but cleaned it under water and that fixed the problem. Note: I cleaned the water filter first and that did not solve the problem. A simple test to see if the air filter is the problem...take the panel door off, press the filter door button and test hot water usage.

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1 Answer

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Let the thermocoupler get hot enough. the bulb that sits at the tip of the pilot flame.. If after given adequate time to heat up, and it still shuts the gas off,, the thermocoupler is defective. From pilot to on, not to low.. good luck.

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You have a 16 error code, abnormal output temperature. I recommend performing a descale to remove hard water deposits in the heat exchanger. This should resolve your issue.

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