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Well the P0300 code has nothing to do with your O2 sensors just a heads up.
P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
When a misfire occurs, engine speed will fluctuate. If the engine speed
fluctuates enough to cause the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor (POS)
signal to vary, Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or Electronic Control Module (ECM) can determine that a misfire is occurring.
Causes: - Improper spark plug - Insufficient compression - Incorrect fuel pressure - The injector circuit is open or shorted - Fuel injectors may be faulty - Intake air leak - The ignition signal circuit is open or shorted
P0135: O2 Sensor Heated Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1
The front heated oxygen sensor (or sensor 1) is placed into the exhaust
manifold. It detects the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas compared to
the outside air. The heated oxygen sensor 1 has a closed-end tube made
of ceramic zirconia. The zirconia generates voltage from approximately
1V in richer conditions to 0V in leaner conditions. The heated oxygen
sensor 1 signal is sent to the ECM. The ECM
adjusts the injection pulse duration to achieve the ideal air-fuel
ratio. The ideal air-fuel ratio occurs near the radical change from 1V
Causes: - Harness or connectors (The sensor circuit is open or shorted) - Front Heated oxygen sensor (Bank 1) may be faulty
Solutions: Replacing the O2 Sensor 1 usually takes care of the problem
The usual operation of this type of fan, is to ground the circuit via the operating relay....meaning that power is fed to the fan and it will need the negative connection made....
The thermo switch (which is the sensor fitted into the coolant galleries) is a bi metal, 'make and break' switch....As it heats it will open the circuit....This will cause a loss of power to the coil side of the 'normally open' relay, which without power will fall closed....As the switching part of the relay closes, it will complete the negative grounding and the fan should begin working.
To carry out an in car test, pull apart the connector on the fan housing leading to the fan motor.....The black cable with white tracer is negative....the other positive....
Use two cables, one positive and one negative and connect to the correct battery terminals....If the fan is okay, it should work....
I would first remove all of the loads from the circuit including taking out the bulbs
Switch everything off and reset the breaker, if it pops then there is a dead short on the wiring due to scrape type flash connection.
It is also feasible that the breaker has gone faulty because they too have a life cycle which shortens every time they are reset
On your breaker board do you have the facility to swop over the same breaker from another circuit.
Regarding tool I assume that you are buying an insulation tester such as a Robin or a Megger?.
In the mean time If you are a competant person I would suggest that you remove the Hot wires from each of the fittings tape them off and mark up where they go back and then reset the breaker, if the problem persists then it is either neutral to earth or a damaged cable
There are two kinds of lid switch. One operates when closed, and one when circuit is open. You need use a multimeter to find out if the switch is open when
on (with no electricity on wire when the lid is closed), or closed when on
(you get electricity when lid is closed). If circuit is open when on, then break the
contact cutting the wire. If switch is closed when on, then jump the two wires together. Do not operate the machine for a full cycle with lid switch on, be sure that you know what you are doing and follow all safety rules.
Check the batteries in the unit and test it somewhere else, somewhere you know where the circuit box is. Get familiar with the unit. The lights you are testing may go to a box other than the one you think.
hi, F2 Oven over temp - exceeded 590F with door in unlocked position or 990F with door locked - If actual temp condition occurred, look for welded relay contacts or high resistance connection or any cause in the oven temperature sensor circuit
F2 Note: Also see fan thermal switches - Indicates that oven is over temperature in one of the following modes within either a cooking or clean mode of operation. · Control senses oven temperature above 650 degrees F with the door circuit in the unlock mode. · Control senses oven temperature above 935 degrees F with the door in the locked mode. · Stalled cooling fan or airflow problem.
· Look for welded relay contacts. (Heating elements on in off mode). · Look for open thermal switch in lock motor circuit. Switch is normally closed and will open if area overheats due to fan not operating. Look for cause - fan thermal switch not closing, fan stalled, etc. · Look for high resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit due to high contact resistance (poor terminal crimp, deformed terminals, loose connection) or intermittent solder joint on control or intermittent oven temperature sensor.