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make sure that the new horn has the same wiring requirements as the old one
some horns use a return ground wire and others ground out through the horn body which means that the mount point has to be on metal of the car body and clean
There are grounding straps everywhere on cars and trucks. Begin by looking at the battery. The posts have cables coming from the (+) and (-) terminals. The (+) side has a cable that goes to the starter, solenoid and fuse box. This cable - and the wires connected to it - are insulated and never touches the vehicle frame, body or exposed metal. The (-) cable however is securely fastened to the engine - usually near the starter or other convenient, easy to access location. Additionally, there are copper jumpers or straps that extend from the (-) post to the exposed metal portions of vehicle frame, body panels, dashboard, etc. This provides a path for the (-)12 volts and ensures it is available everywhere on the vehicle with out the need to run a separate (1) wire to each location that has a (+) wire.
Copper is used as it is a better conductor and more flexible than steel. You should be able to connect one lead from a 12 volt test light to the (+) 12 volt battery post and the touch the other lead anywhere on the car that is metal and light the lamp. If the lamp fails to light or lights only dimly - it because the metal isn't connected to the (-) 12 volt side of the battery due to a missing ground strap or because of a poor or rusty steel connection. Placing one or more straps between metal that provides a bright test light and the metal section that provides a dim or no light at all will make the light glow brightly.
Check the body ground cable connection. I don't know exactly where it is on your model, but it's usually a wire from the battery ground cable harness with a ring connector on the end, bolted with a sheet metal screw to the radiator mounting panel at the front of the engine compartment. (Sometimes it is attached to a fender well at the side of the engine compartment near a fuse or relay box.) If it is necessary to remove rust from the sheet metal under the connection, coat the screw, terminal and surrounding sheet metal with sensor-safe silicone rubber after assembly. Also, cover the end of the screw on the other side of the sheet metal.
It sounds like there is a wire shorting to earth (The metal body) of the car somewhere. I would have a close look around where the wires to the indicators go through any panels or into the lights themselves for damage. Have a look inside the indicator housings on the front and back, there may be water or something in there causing a short. Cars use whats called a "neutral earth" electrical system. Components have an "Active" or positive wire supplying power when switched on, and its negative or neutral is supplied by a connection to earth or the metal body parts of the car.
CORD? THE ONE TO START THE ENGINE.
Park the Polaris ATV on level
ground in an area with plenty of light. Allow the engine to cool if it
is warm so that you don't burn yourself.Remove the four Phillips head
screws from the corners of the metal cover that the cord is coming out
of using the screwdriver. Pull the metal cover off the engine. Unwrap
the cord from around the turn wheel completely.Spin the turn wheel using your
hand until the nut securing the cord is at the top of the wheel facing
you. Grab the metal stem on the cord with the pliers. Loosen and remove
the nut using the box wrench. Hold the stem to keep the cord from
turning as you loosen the nut.Pull the cord off the turn wheel
and through the hole on the metal cover. Keep the nut just in case the
new cord did not come with one. Insert the metal stem on the new cord
into the hole on the metal cover. Insert the stem into the hole on the
turn wheel.Tighten the nut onto the stem
the opposite way than you removed it. Spin the turn wheel
counterclockwise until you hear the spring lock into place. Wrap the new
cord around the turn wheel. Make sure that the cord does not overlap
itself. Replace the metal cover to the engine. Replace and tighten the
screws to secure the cover to your Polaris's engine.
Main power wire comes directly from battery positive (red wire). The smaller wire attached to the starter is the remote which comes from the key switch at the steering wheel (which may pass thru the computer if equipped with anti-theft). The metal body of the starter, which is attached to the metal transmission, carried by wire to the metal body of the vehicle makes it way to a black wire connected to the negative side of the battery (gnd).
If you're using it in a car the antenna makes contact with the body of the car either through the magnetic base, if you're using one, or the metal clip if that's how you attached the antenna to the car. Either way the contact between the antenna and the body of the car acts as a ground.
If you're using it in your house it depends on the type of antenna you're using. Home base antennas have spikes that stick out from the base of the antenna. These act as a ground. If you're using a mobile antenna in your house, which will not give you a great signal, you need to connect it to something metal. Linking the body of the transceiver to the copper piping of your central heating or water heating system provides a good ground for the radio. As the ground of the antenna is connected to the metal of the transceiver body this is the same as grounding the antenna. Even if you're using a proper homebase antenna it's still a good idea to earth the radio as it improves the signal and reduces noise interference
If you're using the CB on a ground floor you may be able to run an earth braid wire outside and put a metal spike in the ground and connect it with your earth braid. Connect the other end of the earth braid to the metal on the body of your radio. NOTE: When connecting an earth to the body of your radio it must not be a painted part of the radio. You could drill a small hole in the body if necessary and put a nut and bolt through it to connect to the earth wire.
Check the ground connection for the lamp socket. If it looks good, try connecting a piece of wire from the engine (bare metal) to the lamp ground. Is it now bright? If so, the metal to metal connection of the fender to the body has probably rusted. Make the ground wire permanent.
Both issues would seem to be a loose/corroded connection and most probably the grounding. The brake light is part of the taillight. Most taillights operate with dual filament bulb (3 terminal). The metal
body of the bulb bottom is usually connected to the body ground. The
correct procedure would be to trace the wiring harness from the
taillight and determine which is the ground and verify that the
contacts are clean and free of corrosion. An alternative is to add a
grounding wire from said metal body of the taillight bulb and attached
to any bare metal/chassis/body in the rear. The same loose ground could cause the inconsistent battery indicator.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.