- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Indeed it does have a defrost timer...
(bottom/back, access from the back side).
The absolute part number is wp68233-2.
If you have the VENTS SMOTHERED with freezer contents... MOVE them away from the vents... Your freezer will resume normal operation... ALTHOUGH A SERIOUS DEFROST is always recommended...
Use NO HEATERS... fans & room air should be more than adequate... (heat can easily damage the interior panels of your freezer). Do have a pile of shop towels... & your wet/dry vacuum ready...
Defrost pans are not designed for the end of the ICE AGE.
- defrost circuit failure...
(there are only 3 basic parts to the DEFROST CIRCUIT)
- heater(s)... very unlikely
- defrost thermostat... unlikely
- clock/timer... most likely (easiest)
The first thing you want to do (after removing power) is inspect the timer ...
(take LOTS of pictures before REMOVING ANYTHING).
Timers are pretty easy to check... (but MUST be turned in ONLY ONE direction)... You can see the center shaft... and if you mark it with two dots (one on the body & one on the center shaft) ... you will then be able to watch the dot turn away from the other dot as the center shaft rotates.
(again) Before you remove anything take LOTS of USEABLE pictures. You will need to put every wire & screw exactly back from whence it came!!
If our first gyess is wrong... your prize is a SPARE TIMER... move on to the DEFROST THERMOSTAT
Hope this helps... Comment me back if you are unsure about anything (I'll be around).
Prices may vary but the parts are ALL THE SAME.
Two screws... 4 wires
Can be a REAL PROBLEM if you mix them up...!!
You can find the timing mark on the end of a crank shaft by looking for an indented dot which marks top dead center.
A flywheel is balanced and does not need a mark. However if the wheel you refer to is a cam gear (one or two gears depending on how many cam shafts your engine has) look for 2 dots with a tooth grove between the two dots. A matching drive gear will have a single dot aligned with a tooth on the drive gear. When put together the single tooth marked on the drive gear must fall into the grove marked the the 2 dots on the cam gears.
If you are just trying to time an engine, the belt drive pulley mounted to the crank shaft will have a single indented line. The line can get filled with dirt so you can't see it. Wipe it clean and fill with grove with something to highlight the groove, as with a white or yellow crayon or a dob of bright paint. Associated with the belt drive pulley, there should be a metal plate with line marks spaced on it, with 0 degrees (top dead center TDC) marked on it, When the engine is running, using a strobe light connected to your number 1 spark plug you will see where the timing mark on the belt drive pulley is compared to the metal plate with the timing marks.
Well the only thing you didn't change were ball joints and if it's four heel drive , the universal joints in the shafts. Since it is a balance problem I would suspect the drive shafts. Although these are uncommon to have a vibration at a certain speed, I wouldn't rule them out. Also the u joints can get stiff, this would cause your problem faster. Check them for a lot of rust at the caps. And just a note alot of front end guys miss the shafts on alignments.
The shift lever has a return spring that pulls the actuator back up. If the gear on the shift shaft has slipped out of position with the gear from the shift drum actuator (the gears are in the wrong position) or the spring has become unhooked) you get the no shift condition. Your problem is probably being caused by a missing spacer or the parts were put back in incorrectly (the 10mm movement of the shaft). You will have to take the engine apart and reassemble the shift mechanism correctly so the shaft does not move and the shift actuator gears line up correctly. Use an on line parts service to look up a picture breakdown of the mechanism (you do not say what model you have)so you can figure out what is missing.
could have been lose lugs
or ABS sencer
or something cought in tire area back of rim or even the wheel well splash gard lose
stock tires will not have this issue but over sized ones might
just some areas to check on
Hi there, You feel hard because its broken from the inside. i guess if you press the right button from the end side( back side end of pressing location ) then some time it will work. Ok just turn back and open the small screw by screw driver. Then remove the casing. you should find 2 button look like small tap with black head or you can say its a radio button. press both button, if its working perfect and sound like a " tik tak" then you confirm that the button is ok. After that check the mouse casing press button. There you found a small plastic "dot" which is attached back side, with left & right side pressing button. If right side is missing then the "dot" button is broken, that's why you can't press the key. And some time its dislocate So if you do not find that "dot" plastic then i suggest you buy a new mouse or if its dislocate then try to fix it.
Thanks & waiting for your feedback.
Unhook your dive shaft from the rear end. Take your U bolts of off your springs. Make sure that you disconnect the break lines from the rear axle. remove your shocks. It should be free at this point. In stubborn cases, you may have to put a small jack in between the frame and axle and apply very light pressure. Hope this helps.
The Range Rovers have permanently engaged Four Wheel Drive. If the tires are different sizes, they're spinning at different rates. Or trying to.
If you were off-road, it wouldn't matter too much, but on paved road, where the tires tend to grip not slip, these different rates subject a locked drive train to tremendous stress. This can bind up the gearing in the transfer case. Hopefully after only ten minutes, no permanent damage was done.
You can relieve this stress by jacking one end completely off the ground. Front or back. As the tires lose their grip on the road, you should see them spin slightly. That's good news. Once released you should be able to move again.
While it's in the air, you should probably put the original size tires back on. So choose which end to jack accordingly.
Comment me back to let me know how it goes. Good luck