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What is the default tension for a elna overlocker club 4

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1788 Answers

SOURCE: I have an elna overlock

If you google elna overlock pro 5dc, I found this site and you can download your manual for $10, hopefully it will help you.http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/30251842-elna-pro-5-dcde-sewing-machine-owner
It is so frustrating to have a great machine and no one can help you. Good luck

Posted on Sep 21, 2010

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SOURCE: i need a user manual

http://brubakerssewing.com/store/index.php/sewing-machine-accessories/elna-pro-4-overlock-instruction-book.html

http://www.sewingnz.com/products/Elna-Pro-4DC-4DE-Overlocker--instruction-manual.html

http://pages.sewing-machine-manuals.com/173/PictPage/3923488626.html

OK the top most links,are for your manual, but i think you have to pay for it.. below, is a free manual.. if you can actually download it.

Posted on Mar 31, 2011

aviral_srms
  • 1216 Answers

SOURCE: I have an elna t34d overlocker. Yesterday it was

Let's try the 10 minute tuneup. (I have a strong suspicion this is a misthreading issue, but it won't hurt to go through the whole thing.)

Dig out your manual.

Remove all the thread from the machine, top and bobbin.

Remove the needle. (Damaged or dull needles do all sorts of strange things to machines.)

Remove the needle plate, and if your machine has a removable bobbin case, pull that out, too.

Remove all fragments of thread and fuzz with brush and vacuum (don't use compressed air or canned air or blow -- it pushes fuzz farther into the machine where you can't get to it.) Pay special attention to the area around the feed dogs and the sewing hook area.

Lubricate the machine according to the manual's instructions if the manual describes using oil. Use ONLY sewing machine oil, not 3-in-1 type oils (they harden and freeze the machine) nor WD-40 (it's a solvent not a lubricant.)

Moisten a fold of well-washed cotton sheeting (like a bandanna or a pillowcase hem) with rubbing alcohol or unflavored vodka. Raise the presser foot to open the upper tension. Floss between the tension disks with the moist cotton fabric. Set the upper tension to 4 if you've been messing with it -- that's a good starting point for most stitches, most fabrics. If you have to go beyond the range of 3 to 5 to get good straight stitching, then it's time for a visit to the repair shop, most likely.

Inspect the bobbin you've removed. Is it nicely wound, or does it look uneven or lumpy? If it's uneven or lumpy, strip off the thread. Inspect the bobbin for cracks, chips, rough spots, etc. and then rewind it properly, following the instructions in your manual, step by step. Use only good quality thread - see: http://sewing.about.com/library/weekly/a...

Inspect the sewing hook, bobbin case, hole in the needle plate and all along the thread path, top and bobbin. If you find burrs, they'll need to be polished out with crocus cloth. If you're a beginner, let a shop do it for you or read John Giordano's The Sewing Machine Book for instructions.

Check to see the bobbin fits in the bobbin case properly-- this may not be a problem if you're using the bobbins that came with your one and only machine, but once you've got a herd of sewing machines, it's easy to mix up bobbins from one machine to the next. (Why no, I've never done that? Why do you ask??? )

Put in a new needle, turned the correct way around. If the bobbin case is toward the front of the machine, the flat back of the needle goes to the back of the machine. Backwards needles skip stitches. Make sure the needle is fully up in the needle clamp before you tighten it.

Open the manual to the section on threading, and read each step aloud before you do it... even if you've threaded it 8 jillion times before. Make sure you 1) Raise the presser foot when threading to open the tension so the thread can enter (this is what I suspect you're doing wrong) 2) Raise the thread takeup lever completely (the arm that moves up and down and is threaded after the tension).

Thread the bobbin case according to the instructions in your manual.

Raise the bobbin thread.

Pull about 4" of thread tail from both top and bobbin thread under and behind the presser foot.

Each and every time you start a seam, you're going to follow the steps below.

1) Raise the presser foot.
2) Place the fabric under the needle at the beginning of the seam.
3) Use the handwheel (or pedal or needle down button on some machines) to lower the needle into the fabric at the beginning of the seam.
4) Drop the presser foot.
5) Take 2 or 3 stitches while holding the thread ends behind the presser foot.
6) Drop the thread ends and sew normally.

----------
I know this seems like a lot of fuss and folderol. But if you get in the habit of giving your machine a light cleaning the first time you sit down at the machine each day (just brush and vacuum; oil if required) and you correctly thread the machine and follow the seam starting sequence, this will solve many, many common sewing machine frustrations.

If the machine persists in misbehaving, stop and do the full "10 minute tuneup" and try again. Always, always take all the thread off the machine -- bobbin out of bobbin case, spool off the spool pin.
99% of the time, even if you don't spot anything wrong, this will fix the machine when you rethread. There was something that you didn't spot that was wrong, and the machine let you know by pitching a hissy fit. Happens to all of us, and this is the fastest way around things that I know.

If the machine persists in having problems,
1) check the needle to make sure it's new, of the right needle system, placed fully up in the needle clamp and turned the right way.
2) try different thread -- poor quality thread can cause some really difficult to spot issues.
3) if it's still having fits, it's probably time for a pro to take a look at it.

Posted on Aug 04, 2011

  • 23 Answers

SOURCE: I have "inherited" an OVERLOCKER. It's an ELNA

Hello Victoria

You can download a manual for this specific machine (Elna 683 686 Overlocker Serger mach...Elna 683 686 Overlocker Serger machine) for £4.95 at the following link:

http://sewingonline.co.uk/library/elna-683-686-overlocker.html

Best Regards

Posted on Oct 31, 2011

SOURCE: Need manual for Elna overlocker 614 DE

here is a link for a manual
http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/instruction-manual-elna-604e-614de-624dse.aspx

Posted on Mar 07, 2013

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ALWAYS Raise the presser foot when threading the machine. Give each thread and extra little tug when threading the tension disks so it seats completely. The midway point on the tension disk is the standard factory setting when using the standard thread weight, however, with use, age, and thread weight that setting may change. So, the user can use the midway point as a starting point for the basic overlock stitch but will need to make adjustments to get the correct tension. When testing your tension, it works best to use the 4 thread colors so it is easier to identify which thread is misbehaving. When you become familiar with your machine and how the stitch looks, it is easier to identify which thread is which.

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Remember that the tension settings will also determine the stitch you are trying to create. A basic overlock will generally have the tension set around the midway point, however, when changing to a rolled edge or some other stitch, certain tensions will be increased or decreased in order to create that particular stitch.

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If you google elna overlock pro 5dc, I found this site and you can download your manual for $10, hopefully it will help you.http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/30251842-elna-pro-5-dcde-sewing-machine-owner
It is so frustrating to have a great machine and no one can help you. Good luck

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