Question about Kenmore 62802 Electric Dryer
Posted by Anonymous on
ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat:
Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)
Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective.
Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,
Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.
Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
Posted on Mar 31, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
check the thermal fuse if it is blown also change the high limit thermal cut-off fuse www.repairclinic.com shows your parts. go there and enter model number. Also check the heat element. to get into it remove the lint filter and the two screws you'll see there then pry the top up at the front corners. And through the back you should find the heat element and blower housing and thermal fuse and high limit fuse and cycling thermostat.
Posted on Apr 06, 2009
Hello Friend, Your problem is very simple to fix. You need a thermal fuse, very simple and affordable to replace. To replace the thermal fuse just remove back cover of dryer and look down where the air blows out. Now, just to the left where all the wires are you will see a white plastic part with two wires plugged into it. This part is called a thermal fuse. Just remove these wires and replace the thermal fuse. Your dryer will run like new. Happy to help, Tim.
Posted on Jun 25, 2009
If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an electric dryer with a no heat problem:
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.
All dryers are not constructed the same. However, the Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.
If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.
Replacement parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.
The heating circuitry is usually located under the "Bulkhead Parts" section.
If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please post back with your complete model number (usually located on a nameplate around the door opening) so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope you find this helpful.
Posted on Nov 10, 2009
This could be the heating element or several other parts more likely the thermal fuse. There is a video on troubleshooting a similar model at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html this will walk you thru troubleshooting your problem.
Posted on Mar 28, 2010
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If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.
if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....
If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.
check out this electric no heat tip...
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