Question about Maytag Dryers
Hi. My Maytag model# LDE482 electric dryer won't blow hot air. The other night, my wife put in clothes at 9:00P.M, and the next morning, the dryer was still running. It looks like the timer on the regular fabrics section died. The timer still works on the timed dry and permanent press selections(I can hear the timer clicking). Now the dryer won't dry anything, it turns on and the motor sounds ok, there are no blockages in the exhaust tube???
Either the control panel is defective or the dryer heating element is defective.
Posted on Jun 28, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check spring tab behind door switch-if it's bent/out of adjustment, circuit will act like door is always open.
To confirm this, open door, set dryer to active setting, and hold in door switch; if it comes on, then it's either the spring tab, or the switch is malfunctioning
Posted on Mar 30, 2008
Warning! To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp edges, use caution while working on your appliance.
This link, http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SmartSearch.aspx, provides exploded view imagery, belt routing diagrams, parts imagery and function, parts ordering and shipping information, error code details, just about anything you need to get your appliance up and running again. Just follow the links to navigate through the site.
You will need to enter the model number stamped on the manufacturers product information data tag, located on the unit, and not in the User’s Manual. to access your product information.
Here are some common solutions to help resolve the issue with your appliance:
If your dryer seems to run forever, it could be because of a clogged vent or internal ductwork. Your dryer may have an automatic cycle that turns off the dryer when the clothes are dry. It does this with a special thermostat or moisture-sensing system.
Normally, this is what happens during an automatic cycle:
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Dave E. (Illeagle)
"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"
Posted on Jul 09, 2008
Pull the dryer out away from the wall. Unhook the vent from the dryercompletely. Do not put anything over the dryer exhaust on the back ofthe dryer. Do a normal load with the vent unhooked. If it dries betteror ok like this then the problem is in the dryer venting. Like ablocked vent pipe or a smashed or restricted vent hose.
If the vent doesn't make a difference,then check the blower wheel for excessive lint build up, check thatthere isn't anything stuck to the air intake baffle inside the drum,(i.e. the screen on the back wall of the dryer when looking into thedrum). Check the lint filter chute for blockage. Check that the heatingelement isn't shorted to ground. Check the exhaust temperature of the dryer. A meat or pocket thermomter can be used for this. It should cycle between 120 degrees and 160 degrees. Check that the drum seals are not worn out.
Posted on Feb 21, 2009
Look at the bottom of your front panel and see if you can see a screw on either side about 2-3 inches from the very bottom edge of the front panel. If so take them out and pull the bottom away far enough to disengage the top of the front panel from the top panel. If this works for ya. then now you have it openened, if not repost me.
Posted on Apr 13, 2009
I had a similar problem years back. It was the ignitor. The ignitor is a ceramic like piece that heats up (glows red) that ignites the gas. Typically when that goes, you will see some white residue build up where it cracked, thus breaking the electrical connection. This thing works like a heating element on an electric stove, but rougher looking.
The part was about $30 at my local parts store. I bought an extra one just in case so I have it on hand. I installed it with common tools.
You can check it to see if you lost connection by using a volt meter.
Posted on Jun 23, 2009
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