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My Amana heavy duty washer large capacity 7 cycles it fills up starts to wash loses water then causes it to start filling back. It's in the wires because had to put them back together! Help

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  • Master
  • 2,509 Answers

Try raising the drain hose, maybe it's too low? What is in the wires?Report back

Posted on May 13, 2014

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 15 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 80 series heavy duty super capacity plus

Check the lid switch when you lower the lid you should hear a small clicking sound.

Posted on Oct 10, 2007

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: amana washer won't fill with water

1st I checked the power, compressor in garage had tripped the breaker to the washer circuit. This model has no bells or whistles to tell you if the power is on to the unit. Reset the breaker and unit works.
Thanks FixYa

Posted on Dec 24, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: washer will fill fill with water but doesn't start wash cycle

it will fill but won,t spin, will throw out water as if it washed, then it take water to rinse but won,t spin ,then will throw out water as if it did , but clothes are soaked

Posted on Feb 21, 2009

jumptrout51
  • 3361 Answers

SOURCE: amana washer only works on delicate cycle

Open the control panel. Unplug the timer and then plug it back in good and firm.
If it does not work correctly after that,
Replace your timer.

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 80 series washer leaks underneath

1. Find out where the leak is coming from. Does it leak constantly or during one part of the cycle?
A constant leak means the leak is in the valve where the hoses hook to the washer, the supply valves, or the lines to the washer from the water supply.
The other two options are when the washer is agitating or pumping the water out between cycles.


2. See if it leaks during both cycles and the test there would be to lift the lid just as it starts to drain and wait to see if the water stops leaking.
If it doesn't, then run the drain cycle to see if it gets worse or better.
Results may not be immediate as it would take a few minutes for whatever water there to finish dripping.


3. Wait until the water has been pumped out, lift the lid and check the drip again.
When the location of the leak has been determined, unless the washer has been frozen, most leaks can be fixed without parts and just using hand tools.
If you have an older, top load washer, the back or front will come off so you can observe where the leak is coming from.

WARNING. You are working with a moving, electrically hot machine that could flood.
You must take your time and not put your hand or hair in somewhere that can catch you.
You should not have to get into the upper control center, thus reducing the shock hazard.

4. Before turning the machine on, remove a cover. On some washers, there are two screws on the bottom L & R front corners that take the front panel loose.
Once the screws are removed, the front cover is hinged at the top and you simply pull the bottom away from the machine until it comes un-hooked, and set the cover aside.

There shouldn't be many exposed wires or ends, but a few. Don't touch the terminals or lay something metal in the machine that could fall on the terminals.


5. Take a flashlight, look for obvious leaks or better, water stains around nuts, hose clamps, etc.
Most likely you'll see some water residue here and there and that would be normal as a washer is wet. Look for puddles, long white streaks, calcium deposits.
Most likely, you won't find standing water, but some clues of where you should look when the machine is running.
Unless this leak is so obivous you can see what's wrong, you don't need to start it and you should repair the problem.
Once possible areas have been identified, you should start the machine as if you had a load in it and start to watch for the leak.

WARNING- Make sure you have no tools laying in the machine and you are out of the way. There are spinning parts and live wires once you turn the machine on.
Stay clear, and watch your hair and hands.

Once the machine is full and starts its cycle, look for leaks.
Let the machine do its cycle and as it goes into each part of the cycle, look for the leak.
Once you find a drip, stop the machine by lifting the lid or pulling out on the control knob, and now observe more closely.
Remember, water runs down; where it drips is not necessarily the place of origin.

6 Find the leak and make the needed adjustment (which will be all that is necessary most of the time).
If it is a part you need, get the make, model number and serial number of the washer and call an appliance parts dealer or repair service if you don't think you can repair the problem.



If the washing machine leaks water while it is filling, pull it away from the wall and see if the water drips from the inlet hoses or valves as the unit fills.
If it does, tighten the faucet packing nuts. Then, inspect the hoses and replace them if they have become cracked.
Also look for cracks in the casing of the inlet valves. Unplug the unit and lift the top to better inspect the valves.

Replace any valves that are cracked.

Valves usually crack when the hot water in the house water supply is heated to greater than 170 degrees.
They also crack if the house is left cold during the water and water is not drained from the unit. A cracked inlet nozzle can leak during fill.
The leaking water will drip down the outside of the tub and collect under the unit. Be sure that the hose connected to the inlet nozzle is tightly clamped.
Replace the nozzle if you find cracks in it.

If the leaking occurs at some time during the wash sequence other than when the machine is filling with water, unplug the unit, remove the back panel and examine the parts under the machine.
You can make a closer inspection by tipping the unit over onto it's front or side.

Tighten hose clamps that have become loose. If water is leaking from the pump, replace the pump.

The gasket between the tub and the splash guard may wear out and leak. To check the gasket, lift the top and remove the snubber and splash guard.
Replace a worn gasket. A hole in the bottom of the tub can develop.
If the hole is less than 1/4 inch in diameter, remove the agitator and basket and seal the hole.
If the hole is larger, replace the washing machine or tub.




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Posted on Sep 17, 2010

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1 Answer

I have kenmore 80 series heavy duty/ super capacity plus washer that after it fills with water,hot or cold and it starts the wash cycle, I noticed that the agitator only moves once in awhile and stops


hum either a bad timer sticking the point contacts close. have u tried this in all cycles? and possibly a motor with bad windings not enough power to run agitation? try running in mild or gentle and see what happens? I was tempted to say the cam dogs in agitator but they dont work then stop then work, when they go out they go out.

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There should be a module that does the agitation bit for the washer motor(Spins one way shuts off and reverses the spin etc) There may be a capacitor under the control panel that is not working any more so the motor will not start.

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Machine will wash on hot only will not on cold or will not fill with cold at all


This is an indication that the solenoid on the cold water valve is bad. Or the cold water valve is plugged. If you can get to the valves, use a meter to check the solenoid OR the power to the solenoid. That will tell you if it is bad. If you dont have a meter, switch the wires from one solenoid to the other and see if it fills

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It can be due to a faulty water level sensor which evidently is a pressure switch. If the diaphragm is damaged it will require a larger water level to achieve the said pressure to shut the inlet valve in all the cycles.

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I have a Kenmore Heavy Duty Extra Large Capacity Plus model 110, (16512690), Serial#3808455. It will not fill. When you start the machine it will make a buzzing noise as though an electric motor is trying...


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The water fills very slowly on rinse


You probably have a cold inlet valve with restricted flow, either because the filter on the inlet valve is clogged or because the cold valve is failing......If you wash on "warm" you have both hot and cold water mixed. On rinse there is probably only cold water used....Check water flow for HOT and COLD settings and you'll probably see the difference...Good luck...Nomess

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Water will not stop when level is reached but starts next cycle


If the water will stop when you turn the washer off then the problem is the water level switch. It's a switch connected to a hose which goes between the inner and outer tub. You can blow on it and the water should cut off. The filling water puts pressure on the switch with the air in the hose.
If the water doesn't stop when you cut the washer off then the water inlet valve is probably stuck open. The water supply hoses on the back connect to the valves.

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