Question about Hobart A200 Stand Mixer

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Hobart A200 won't start

Mine just hums when switching it on. While off, the motor seems to move freely but when the switch is turned on, it just freezes and hums. I replaced the 4 terminal electronic switch and cap but no change. The motor coils measure 9 ohms on yellow to yellow and 8 ohms yellow to black. I can't see a centrifugal switch on it or I'd suspect that being bad on needing cleaning.

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If the gearing is all free to move and you replaced the motor capacitor that only leaves the motor. If you can remove the motor and test it "out of the gearing" that would confirm it. You have wired the capacitor correctly and used the correct one? Just asking! Are you sure the gearing isn't jammed up?

Posted on May 13, 2014

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  • Scalerwave Signal
    Scalerwave Signal May 13, 2014

    The gearing seems free. The capacitor was wired in the same way the old was but isn't it non-polarized? The motor could be bad but the coil windings seem to ohm ok. That's why it's got me scratching my head.

  • Scalerwave Signal
    Scalerwave Signal May 13, 2014

    The parts were exact replacement parts from the parts list.

  • eyecam Jun 02, 2014

    there is a tiny start capacitor. needs to be replaced uf value

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SOURCE: Hobart Mixer A200 buzzing. The motor not moving

Have you try to run the motor without engaing of worm gears? The worm gear 15T assembly need to remove in order for motor to run freely. check worm gear attach to motor shaft for any damaging.

Posted on Apr 27, 2010

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I think... without knowing that motor... that the capacitor is a start capacitor, and that the start switch may be trying to "start" the motor full-time instead of switching it out of circuit after it figures that the motor has spun up. I may be wrong - that design may be a capacitor-run motor (similar to a three-phase motor) - but I'm betting it's a start-only capacitor.

If you know someone with a capacitance meter, you could check the capacitor - for both capacitance (to be sure it matches the label) and leakage. Easy way to write that one off. Alternatively, you could rig it such that after the motor's wound up you could manually disconnect the capacitor and see what happens - either the motor stops or else the smoking issue stops.

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The start switch, if electronic, is able to be tested, but not very easily. Once you've eliminated the other possibilities, it's time to replace the (electronic) start switch. If the motor has a mechanical start switch, it's easy to test: Remove the two wires at the rear of the motor and test for continuity with the motor stationary. A multimeter should show near zero ohms for a good mechanical start switch.

Burned wiring should be easy to spot with some careful inspection around the motor, capacitor, and start switch.

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