Question about GE JTP45 Electric Double Oven

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Jtp45 lower oven not heating on any cycle

Upper oven works fine no errors lower oven does not heat on any cycle, bake, broil or clean

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: Electric Oven doen't heat

cdkd, there should be a TC0, on the back of the oven. Thermal cut out. You want to check to see if it is open. You will have to pull the oven out enough that you can remove the back panel cover and check it. The lower and upper oven should have one. It's a very cheap part to replace. If this TCO fails, no heat. Check this first before buying a new board. Catriver..post back.

Posted on Dec 27, 2006

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  • 833 Answers

SOURCE: Won't heat!!!

First, are the burners working right? It is possible that a breaker opened. Cycle your breakers off and then on. Its a shot....

How many elements in your oven? Sounds like one fried. Start the unit with the door open. See which element doesn't glow after a few minutes. Wait for cooldown, open the breakers and then remove it and take it to the appliance repair parts guy to test and replace. Funny...you should have gotten an error code.

Not that? It will likely be the thermister controlling your temp sense.

Posted on Dec 21, 2007

  • 135 Answers

SOURCE: No power to heating coils

hello sir

this is troubleshot proceure..click on blue letter to check each parts

  • Check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker
  • Make sure the power cord is plugged in securely
  • Test the electric outlet for current
  • Inspect the connections to the terminal block
  • Test the electric cord
  • Eliminate use of an extension cord, if any is being used
  • Check the outlet voltage

Posted on Jul 09, 2008

scottowa
  • 87 Answers

SOURCE: Elements in convection oven won't heat

DO you have a model number for that. I'm almost sure it's a thermal fuse in the back of the oven. Usually they go out during or after cleaning but that would shut down both elements. If you have the model (usually by the inside door look all over and up in the cavity) Then if you go to this link

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?intcmp=xsite_Sears

It will show you a breakdown of the oven and where it is. If you give me the model I'll show you what I'm talking about. Good luck.

P.S. if it the fuse it's a cheap fix, little hard to get in back of the oven but cheap!

Posted on Mar 04, 2009

  • 3230 Answers

SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp

The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

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