Question about MBKP International LLC GUILLOTINE EC19 Electric Paper Cutter

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WHAT IS SENSOR FAULT F 3?

The started to cut then stopped. Trying to retract the blade with the 2 correct buttons from the manual.

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Auto retract slice cutter slider that moves blade out will not latch. I have to hold it in place with my thumb and so can't make any cuts. Am I missing something?


If I am reading this correctly, your answer may be that the cutter is designed that way for safety. "Auto-retracting". You find it in some utility knives that often store employees are required to carry so they won't "hurt themselves". Annoying, really. Try buying another cutter that is not an "auto retract"-- or get used to using your thumb for the purpose of holding the slide so the blade stays exposed.

Mar 23, 2014 | Slice Ceramic Safety Cutter

1 Answer

My proform xp 542e stop working when i pushed thed fan button, is there a reset button.


1) is probably fault sensor speed you mus calibrate 2) IMPROPER connector tight it. 3) faulty sensor.

2) Use the calibration software from your equipment see the owner manual or go under the Hood and see the instruction for fix it and diagnostics.

3) Main motor can be fault test without load with 115 vac.
http://www.fixya.com/support/r10786838-test_procedure_d for measure the motor personal tip.


4) Test the main motor controller output for +5 Vdc.

Attached the block diagram that i did for better result and diagnostic too.






12_24_2011_6_58_29_pm.gifsincerely. Merry Christmas.
ernesto cuadra
managua, nicaragua

Dec 22, 2011 | Exercise & Fitness

1 Answer

Bolens st160 hydro eliminator 16hp tilling transmission .took the blades off 2 sharpen,1ata time,installed them, probably not in exactly the same position.started mowing the mower mows about a foot then...


Make sure the shape edge of the blades is installed closer to the ground. I don't think it matters what the position of the blade is.
Gary

Apr 25, 2011 | Garden

1 Answer

The blade on my B&D sawcat spins even with nut tightened. cold it be the blade is worn, but i put a new blade on and it doesnt spin as freely but still spins


Hole in the blade is greater than spindle on the saw, you did not put bush washer/reducer in, or if that bit is correct, you are puting holding nut wrong way in.

Do not use saw till you rectify the problem, switch off the saw, remove power cord from socket.

1. raise saw table up for maximum cut
2. retract slide-in protector to maximum
3. remove nut from spindle, following by blade (and bush if used)
4. check internalholding washer if it is correctly inserted.
5. orient correctly internal washer (it have notch or notches and will go freely only one way - check if that is the case)
6. insert blade, with reducing bush if required
7. if external washer is used put it in
8. screw in the holding nut, hand tighten and check mobility of the blade, tighten up about 1/8 to 1/4 turn with spanner, this should be sufficient to hold blade in place without any slipage. If slipage is still present, you are doing something wrong, you need then to supply me with exact model and I will describe exact part look and order in which they must go in.
9. connect to electrical outlet
10. short switch on and off
11. check blade for wandering and slipage, if none then make test cut
12. use as usual if 11 is correct

Hope this will solve your problem :-)

Aug 16, 2010 | Saws

1 Answer

Need a manual for a sears/craftsman model #103.24300 bandsaw


Any particular reason? If general settings problem, please follow this advice:

Brand of bandsaw is of no importance, problem is... I assume that problem is with regulation of the blade motion. Please follow these instructions, I posted them previously for another member, they apply to any bandsaw in existence, regardless of brand, manufacture, age or look...

I love bandsaws, they are one of best and most universal woodworking machines, used as well in food and metal industries.

Now, what you should know about bandsaw that it have several points of regulations and all of them must be adjusted correctly. Basic "anatomy" of bandsaw is that it have body, in it there is housed driving wheel (bottom) and tension wheel (top), both of these are protected by rubber "tyre" usually crowned, that allow for better self adjustment and protect teeth on the band.

Switch machine off and remove power plug from the socket.

Start with tension, open covers, retract top (above the table) and bottom (below the table) guides so blade is not touching the rear bearing or side slides.

1. rotate top wheel and see where blade is wandering, regulate tension and tilt on the wheel till band position itself on the centre of the top wheel, is rotating freely without wandering, and cuttin edge is off the wheel or rubber and do not touch the wheel or raiser.
2. cut strip of paper and slide top guide towards the blade till bearing touch blade through the paper (paper thickness is about correct distance of bearing to the blade), allowing paper to be slided out without tension. lock bearing guide in.
3. insert paper on internal side of the blade and slide internal slide guide block till you can only pull the paper out, lock the slider.
4. repeat previous (3) operation on external guide block and after you slide paper out, lock it in position as well.
5. manually rotate the tension wheel, should operate freely, without wandering, without touching bearing or side slides.
6. repeat step 2 to 5 on the bottom guide
7. close the covers
8. adjust hight of the top guide suitable to cut , allowing about 2 finger breaths above the cut piece.
9. connect power, switch on the bandsaw and switch off, after it stop, check for tension, switch on and make test cut.

This general rule applies to all bandsaw, regardless of brand, make, vintage. Do remember that this is not a toy, it will cut through, wood, metal and your fingers...

Do remember, that these operations must be performed every time when you change the blade, do not forget to use bit of silicone or teflon spray if you cut very sappy or green wood, do not press and force, allow blade to slide and cut, use protection screen and googles, you have only two eyes and there are no spares...

If you have problem with your bandsaw, not related to adjustments, please do not hesitate to ask further questions, let us know how you get along with this info.

Aug 15, 2010 | Craftsman Saws

1 Answer

Sorry as i have extremely little amount of info on this machine (not mine ) i said i would fix it for her it is a 3 wheeled machiene made by rexon i asked for the model & was told all she could find...


Brand of bandsaw is of no importance, problem is... You did not stated what is exactly the problem, I assume therefore tha tproblem is with regulation of the blade motion. Please follow these instructions, I posted them previously for another member, they apply to any bandsaw in existence, regardless of brand, manufacture, age or look...

I love bandsaws, they are one of best and most universal woodworking machines, used as well in food and metal industries.

Now, what you should know about bandsaw that it have several points of regulations and all of them must be adjusted correctly. Basic "anatomy" of bandsaw is that it have body, in it there is driving wheel (bottom) and tension wheel (top), both of these are protected by rubber "tyre" usually crowned, that allow for better self adjustment and protect teeth on the band.

Switch machine off and remove power plug from the socket.

Start with tension, open covers, retract top (above the table) and bottom (below the table) guides so blade is not touching the rear bearing or side slides.

1. rotate top wheel and see where blade is wandering, regulate tension and tilt on the wheel till band position itself on the centre of the top wheel, is rotating freely without wandering, and cuttin edge is off the wheel or rubber and do not touch the wheel or raiser.
2. cut strip of paper and slide top guide towards the blade till bearing touch blade through the paper (paper thickness is about correct distance of bearing to the blade), allowing paper to be slided out without tension. lock bearing guide in.
3. insert paper on internal side of the blade and slide internal slide guide block till you can only pull the paper out, lock the slider.
4. repeat previous (3) operation on external guide block and after you slide paper out, lock it in position as well.
5. manually rotate the tension wheel, should operate freely, without wandering, without touching bearing or side slides.
6. repeat step 2 to 5 on the bottom guide
7. close the covers
8. adjust hight of the top guide suitable to cut , allowing about 2 finger breaths above the cut piece.
9. connect power, switch on the bandsaw and switch off, after it stop, check for tension, switch on and make test cut.

This general rule applies to all bandsaw, regardless of brand, make, vintage. Do remember that this is not a toy, it will cut through, wood, metal and your fingers...

Do remember, that these operations must be performed every time when you change the blade, do not forget to use bit of silicone or teflon spray if you cut very sappy or green wood, do not press and force, allow blade to slide and cut, use protection screen and googles, you have only two eyes and there are no spares...

If you still have some trouble with your bandsaw, please do not hesitate to ask further questions, let us know how you get along with this info.

Aug 13, 2010 | Saws

1 Answer

I cannot get the blade to track correctly on my JET 12" band saw. What could be wrong? I have done exactly what the manual says to do. I am not sure the square box on the outside is fitting. The little arm...


i love bandsaws, they are one of best and most universal woodworking machines, used as well in food and metal industries.

now, what you should know about bandsaw that it have several points of regulations and all of them must be adjusted correctly. basic "anatomy" of bandsaw is that it have body, in it there is driving wheel (bottom) and tension wheel (top), both of these are protected by rubber "tyre" usually crowned, that allow for bette adjustment and protect teeth on the band.

start with tension, open covers, retract top (above the table) and bottom (below the table) guides so blade is not touching the rear bearing or side slides.

1. rotate top wheel and see where blade is wandering, regulate tension and tilt on the wheel till band position itself on the centre of the top wheel and cuttin edge is off the wheel or rubber and do not touch the wheel or raiser.
2. cut strip of paper and slide top guide towards the blade till bearing touch blade through the paper (paper thickness is about correct distance of bearing to the blade), allowing paper to be slided out without tension. lock it in.
3. insert paper on internal side of the blade and slide internal slide guide block till you can only pull the paper out, lock the slider.
4. repeat previous operation on external guide block and after you slide paper out, lock it in position.
5. manually rotate the tension wheel, should operate freely, without wandering
6. repeat step 2 to 5 on the bottom guide
7. close the covers
8. adjust hight of the guide suitable to cut , allowing about 2 finger breaths above the cut piece.
9. switch on the bandsaw and switch off, after it stop, check for tension, switch on and make test cut.

this general rule applies to all bandsaw, regardless of brand, make, vintage. do remember that this is not a toy, it will cut through, wood, metal and your fingers...

do remember, that these operations must be performed every time when you change the blade, to not forget to use bit of silicone or teflon spray if you cut very sappy or green wood, do not press and force, use protection screen and googles, you have only two eyes and there are no spares...

Jul 30, 2010 | Jet JWBS-16B 708749B 16-inch Bandsaw

1 Answer

09,037.45:39005


Hi,
This is an error in the ink loader.
It usually means the ink count sensors are stuck, after using 2 - 3 ink sticks. Your code shows that the yellow ink loader is stuck.
Features on the bottom of Xerox ink sticks actuate the ink loader sensor located at the end of each ink loader channel. The sensor detects the movement of the ink sticks to keep a record of ink usage.

Damaged, or Non-Genuine ink sticks may not actuate the sensors. Or using older Phaser 8400 model ink will also cause the 9,03x.4x errors.

  1. Check the ink sticks are genuine, and for the correct model.
  2. Manually verify that the ink stick is able to move in the ink loader chute. Check for broken or incorrect ink sticks.
There is a small chance that the ink count sensor is faulty, or the ink heater has blown.

This fault has to be cleared by running the Clear ISC Fault function, in the Service Diagnostics Menu.

Service Diagnostics > Function Menu > Clear ISC Fault

To enter the Service Diagnostics Menu, start with the power OFF.....

1. Turn the printer power On.
2. Wait for the Xerox logo to begin moving across the display.
3. Before the logo is centered on the display (stops moving), press and hold
the Back and Help buttons on the Control Panel.
4. Hold both buttons until the display reads Beginning Service Mode
Initialization. Release the buttons and the printer reboots into service

Have Fun!

May 11, 2010 | Xerox Phaser 8560DN Laser Printer

1 Answer

Can not get blade guard to operate correctly


These guards have stops that prevent them from coming down too far. I is possible that you may have inadvertently past the stop and now it's working to not let the guard up. It's a shot. Good luck.

Apr 11, 2009 | Saws

2 Answers

BMW 318ci 2001 Cold to Hot Problem??


umh,have you checked the cambelt/chain tension its a bit strange for two sensors to go down at the same time !! cranksensor would make it stop but normally on sequential injection if the camsensor fails the car will keep running untilll you stop it then refuse to start....

Oct 18, 2008 | 2005 BMW 3 Series

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