Question about Refrigerators
RF217ACWP I replaced the control board and the defrost heater and thermostat and still the frig does not defrost. What other components control the defrost cycle? Please help.
Check the defrost drain hose. If it is plugged, the water from defrosting has no place to go, so defrosting doesn't do much.
Also, make sure you have power to the defrosting circuit (you may have a problem with the wiring). The simplest and safest means is to do a continuity check of the wires between the control board and heater with the refrigerator unplugged, or unplug the heater connection to the control board and measure the resistance of the heater through the connector(s). If it is open or very high, examine the wire terminals for corrosion. If the defrost control board is separate from the rest of the refrigerator control system, check for power coming into the board.
Posted on May 12, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Defrost Heater Resistance Range
21.3 ohms is just fine for a defrost heater. this heater is low wattage since it is an adaptive defrost. you could have problem with temperature sensor since you have replaced the board already.
tnx for using fixya,
Posted on Sep 30, 2008
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To answer your question I know of no reason the electronic type of board would cause the heater to go out unless the defrost thermostat (or sensor) and board stuck in the defrost possession and did not stop the heater. Any time you replace the board and have had a defrost problem a check of the heater will either confirm or eliminate it but the defrost sensor should be replaced if the board is being blamed for non defrost. I cant rule out 100% that a bad board will not cause a heater problem but the high 99% range is most likely. If you have a volt ohm meter and can find the heater circuit on your board and the freezer has been running down to correct temp you can check the defrost circuit by ohming it out. Lower resistance of 10 to 60 ohms is common. Anything higher will require ohming the heater out directly and the defrost thermostat will be open if the temperature is above the stats range.
Common to all self defrosting refrigerators / freezers is the need to move air around to pickup heat inside the compartment. Common to all frost free refrigeration to maintain this feature are 3 items:
1 and initiator (defrost timer or circuit board),
2 A heat source for defrost (Usually an electric heat element but can be other types of heat sources)
3 A safety limit to stop the heat source, leaving it warm enough to defrost and keep the heat contained where it will not affect the compartment advisedly. In a standard type defrost (non - electronic) it is called a thermostat. In an electronic board defrost it is called a sensor.
The defrost timer / or board will never be in the Freezer. Other than that it could be in the refrigerator section behind a plastic cover or metal cover on the back outside. It could also be under Neath the front corners or center of the front kick plate.
A timer you can turn the cam clock wise till it clicks. A board will depend on the manufacturer as to how to send into defrost for a test. A sensor on the defrost type board may be required to by-pass into defrost or test mode.
The freezer section has the only cooling coil. It sounds like it is blocked with frost and thus won’t let the air circulate from freezer to refrigerator.
There is a defrost timer, (or board), a defrost heater, and a defrost safety thermostat. Any One of these or a combination of 2 can be your problem. If you have a energy efficient model that has electronic controls then you will have a board. The procedures for checking the circuit on a board vary by manufacturer of the board used and manufacturer of the appliance.
The defrost heater always has resistance and is attached to the freezer coil.
The defrost thermostat is also attached to the heater electrically, unless it is an electronic sensor type. Sensor types have a range of resistance that needs to be known to check and varies slightly with the temperature of the sensor.
If I haven't lost you here you maybe equipped with the life experiences that will allow you to do most of these checks. If its over your understanding I recommend you contact a reliable technician..
Posted on Apr 17, 2009
Why were those parts changed? Was the compressor cycling on overload at the time?
If so, you should have first replaced the relay/overload combination and the see what happened.
Posted on Apr 26, 2009
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