If you are using copper tubing, use a cutting tool and cut the tubing so it will be cut straight. Install a new compression nut, then the "O" ring. Tighten the nut securely. You should not have a leak.
If you are using copper pipe, you must clean the ends of each piece to be connected with fine sandpaper. (Approx. 1") If you are using a connection sleeve, sand inside it. Apply solder flux to pipe and sleeve. Use a torch and heat all around joint, then hold your torch on opposite side and touch your solder next to the joint. It will suck the solder in. If you use 1/2 inch of solder, that's enough. No need to over solder.
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Re: How do I seal a copper pipe connecter.
The tubing end must be square in order to seat properly in the fixture. The old compression ring may be distorted. The nut may have been cross-threaded at some point. The ultimate solution may be to remove the old fitting and start over with a new one.
I would replace the fitting on the pipe and see if that helps. Depending on the type of joint that it is you might need to seal it with solder. That is the most effective way that I have personally seen to seal a copper pipe.
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1. Measure piping size with tape measure or read printed on pipe. 2. Visit local hardware store and take the faucet. 3. Tell them you need a tubing cutter and sharkbite adapters for the faucet you have. 4. Cut pipe with tubing cutters. 5. Push on sharkbite fittings. 6. Install faucet and supply hoses. 7. Take Bath.
You didn't mention the source of the water. Is this a well or connected to a water system? If is a well you might need to install a filter on the line coming into the house. Does the orange water stain or have any odor? It is possible that there is a loose connection somewhere allowing sediment to leach into the line when there is no active flow.
Clean out the new ice maker with warm soapy water.
Ensure that the floor surface under your refrigerator is level. If the floor surface under your refrigerator isn't level, you can place shims under the legs of the refrigerator to fix the uneven surface.
Turn off the main water supply to your house.
Clear the water line by running the faucets until the pipe clears.
Screw the copper supply line's connector to the house's cold water connector valve. Use an adjustable wrench to tighten the connection.
Slide the compression sleeve and nut onto the other end of the copper supply line. The compression sleeve and nut will wrap around the outside of the copper supply line.
Bend the copper supply line to fit into the water line inlet casing located on the back of the refrigerator. Leave slack in the line so that the refrigerator can be pulled away from the wall or cabinets. The water line inlet casing is a plastic bracket used to hold the copper supply line in place so that there is no pull on the tubing's connection. It is the larger of the two plastic brackets located on the back of the refrigerator.
Insert the compression sleeve located around the end of the copper supply line into the ice maker connector. The ice maker connector is already installed on the back of the Maytag refrigerator.
Tighten the nut over the connection between the compression sleeve on the copper supply line and the ice maker connector with an adjustable wrench.
Attach the water supply tube clamp to the water supply line by clipping it into place. The water supply tube clamp is a plastic bracket located on the back of the refrigerator that holds the supply tube so that it doesn't rattle and become disconnected. It is the smaller of the two brackets located on the back of the refrigerator.
Turn on the main water supply.
Check all connections for leaks.
Position the drain hose located on the back of the ice maker over your floor drain. Use a PVC pipe if you need to redirect the drain hose flow so that it falls over the floor drain. The PVC pipe should not touch the drain hose and should have no low point where the water can settle.
Plug the ice maker into a 3-prong grounded outlet.
Find your route to the water line. Drill a hole in the floor behind the refrigerator and thread the copper tubing into the basement. Go to the basement and find the main water line and pull the copper tubing to it.
Step 2 Attach pipe to refrigerator. Go back up to the kitchen and attach the end of the copper tubing to the water pipe of the refrigerator. You can use a nut and ferrule to connect the tube to the fridge. Make sure to leave a little bit of copper tubing coiled behind the fridge so as to not disconnect the tubing when moving the fridge.
Step 3 Turn off the water. With the fridge all hooked up, go back to the basement and turn off the water. Find the cold water pipe and drill a 1/4-inch hole to accommodate the copper tubing.
Step 4 Attach valve to pipe. You need to attach the water valve to the main pipe. This allows you to control the flow of water to the refrigerator. Make sure you have a gasket to seal between the valve and main water pipe.
Step 5 Connect the copper tubing. With the valve connected to the main water pipe, connect the copper tubing using a clamp. This should be everything you need. Turn on the main water and you should be able to get a glass of water, but it will take an hour or two for the ice cubes to freeze.
Good for you taking on this project. The first thing I will start with, is if you are not comfortable soldering copper then I would stop and call in a plumber to install the shower. If you have soldered copper in the past and are comfortable doing so then please proceed. Give yourself 2 to 3 full days to complete the project. You will need: Plumbing permit, available from your local munucipality. It will need to be inspected after the work is completed. Solder, solder flux and propane torch Heavy suede work gloves Water Spray bottle Pipe wrench Safety Glasses Hacksaw Deburring tool for copper pipe Emery cloth Tape measure Screw driver or screw gun Mounting Screws Old blankets 5 gallon pail 1/2" Copper pipe and fittings To begin we will have to uninstall the old shower. I find it helps to take photographs of the existing system so that you can see how the new one should go back together in case you get stuck halfway through the project and cannot see how to finish it off correctly. If you can access the shower from the other side of the wall, great. If not you will need to remove the shower surround or tile on the end wall where the plumbing is. Be sure to protect the tub with an old comforter or something to keep the tub from getting scratched up during construction. Before removing the old shower be sure to locate the shut off valves and close them. Turn both hot and cold on in the shower to remove any water pressure in the lines. Disassemble all the trim pieces of the old shower including the tub spout, handles, diverter and shower head. Take measurements of the existing piping to assist you when it comes time to cut and assemble the new copper. Do not reuse any of the old fittings. They will be very difficult to solder and new ones are very cheap. You should have 2 copper risers coming out of the floor, one cold, one hot. Cut them approx 12" above the floor. Repeat the same process for the tub spout and the shower riser. With all 4 pipes cut you can now remove the brass manifold from the 2X4 blocking. Disassemble the shower flange pipe from the copper shower riser. You should now have just the cut copper risers coming out of the floor. Use the deburring tool to clean the sharp edges where you cut the risers. This will aid in soldering the new pipe in and avoid you cutting yourself on the sharp copper while you work. To be continued.
Now that everything is apart it is time to cut all the copper to proper size and mount the brass manifold on the blocking within the wall. Take a close look at the drawings on the instructions. The plastic piece that covers the brass manifold will need to be flush with the drywall so that when you install the escutcheon plate it is also flush with the drywall. Be sure to test fit all the plumbing before soldering to ensure. begin by soldering the fittings that will screw into the manifold. Once this is done begin reconnecting the plumbing system. Again I can't stress enough that if you are not comfortable or have experience soldering copper to bring in a licensed pro. Nothing worse than completing the job and finding its either not up to code or worse leaks and you have to back over the job. Good luck with your project and let me know if I can be of any further help. Sorry it took so long to finish this. I was out sick for about a week right after I completed the first part. Good luck.
First of all, you need a faucet wrench. It's about 12 inches long, has a t-handle on one end and jaws on the other -- this will grip the plastic nuts to remove them.
I'm not sure what is meant by breaking the seal. If the soldered fitting broke loose, the best approach is to cut the copper pipe off past the damage and solder a new fitting on it necessary for the new hose to screw onto it.
There are a lot of ways to solve this problem -- if you can't manage the soldering, we can discuss other options.
First shut off the main water supply. This is likely located close to your water meter where the main water supply enters your house. After shutting the water off, open a faucet on the lower level and let the water lines drain. Disconnect the water supply line running to the base of the fixture you will be working on. On some, this will just be a screw on connection, and on others it may be a soldered pipe. If it's soldered, use a hacksaw (or better yet, a pipe cutter) to cut the pipe in two places, about 2" down from the base of the fixture and also 6" to 10" further down the pipe. Use the reamer on the pipe cutter to remove any burrs on the copper pipes, and then clean them (with a piece of sandpaper or emery cloth) until they shine. Slide the compression nut from the shut off valve onto the pipe with the threads facing the open end. Then slide on the compression ring. Wrap the pipe with Teflon tape or spread plumbing joint compound on the end of the pipe, and then push the shutoff onto the end of the pipe. Slide the compression nut and ring up to the shut off valve and hand tighten the nut. Attach the compression fitting of the flexible supply tube to the other side of the shut off valve and hand tighten it as well. Attach the compression fitting on the supply tube to the base of the faucet and hand tighten it. Once all your compression fittings are attached and hand tightened, use an adjustable wrench to tighten them all firmly. Be careful you don't over tighten as this can bend the soft copper pipe out of round or damage a compression fitting. Turn the water back on and check for leaks. (Don't forget to open the shut off valve when you turn on the faucet.)