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1990 Bronco 2 rear axel diagram?

Shaft is notched which dirrection do the notches face?

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: replacing timing belt 91 mercury capri

according to a manual , the crank key will point to arrow , the intake cam should have an letter i aligned with arrow on belt cover and exhaust cam should have letter e aligned with arrow on belt cover , and as always rotate the engine 2 full turns to inspect timing marks before cranking or trying to start the engine . if you haven't taken the original belt off yet , paint your marks for quicker reference .

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: timing belt replacement 94 Accord

HI train fixer
You would find the following utube site helpful----- dave's farm I think he has a clip on this.

Posted on Feb 19, 2009

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SOURCE: 1991 olds bravada timing question

I have a 1996 Olds Bravada with a 4.3L Vortec 6. The two grooved notches on the harmonic balancer are not used in timing as far as I can tell. Look for a small peg on the back of the harmonic balancer, and once found, you will be able to see it and line it up with the "v" marks on the timing cover. Keep in mind this is on the 1996, but I thought it might be the same since I had a similar problem of trying to figure out which marks to use until I found the peg. You should be able to feel it also.

Posted on Jun 03, 2009

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SOURCE: Fuse panel diagram for 1990 ford bronco 2

Here's the diagram for the fuse panel under the dash. There is also a fuse panel under the hood next to the air filter.e589aae.jpg

Posted on Jan 29, 2010

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SOURCE: im replacing the timing belt

#1 cylinder is to the left as you look at the belt. Either way, I recommend you use the timing mark on the crankshaft, which is more accurate way to get TDC (see diagram below). The key to getting timing belt right is to first get all the sprockets on their marks. Then retract the tensioner and put the belt on loose. To prepare for releasing the tensioner, start with holding the belt to the left cam sprocket and pull it tight to the right sprocket. There can be no slack between the 2 sprockets. Then pull down to the crankshaft sprocket and push the belt knobs into the sprocket--again no slack between the cam sprocket and the crank sprocket. All of the slack should now be on the left side, by the tensioner. While holding the belt like this, release the tensioner onto the belt. Make sure the belt has not slipped a tooth between the sprockets, and tighten the tensioner. Rotate the engine a couple revolutions back to the timing marks and double-check the timing. loosen the tensioner and push it tight against the belt, then tighten it again. If you are not sure about anything I said here or have any questions at all, please don't hesitate to ask. I do not want you to have to take the cover off this timing belt again.

Posted on Dec 05, 2010

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1.assemble 2nd gear, from rear of main shaft, with hub toward rear.
2.Install 1-2 synchronizer ring , with clutch taper to rear, together with a blocker ring on each side so their keyways line up with the clutch keys. Some units will have a snap ring to go on now or some units will have a 1st gear spacer sleeve to go on.
3. Install 1st gear with hub toward front and 1st gear thrust washer.
4.Press rear main bearing onto shaft being sure to seat it firmly. The diagram shows a piece of 1 and 5/8 ID pipe used to do this.
5. Install correct snap ring in groove on mainshaft behind rear bearing. Max gap between snap ring and rear face of bearing is 0"-.005".
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7. Install 3-4 clutch assembly with taper and hub to front. Make sure keys in hub correspond to notches in 3rd gear synchronizer.
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1 Answer

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If you plan on doing any more engine work, you really need a book.
When you sell the car having a set of books adds value.
Generally speaking, Ford 8 cylinder engines had a mark or notch on each gear and the notches are aligned to face each other.
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I've had my steamer for years, so not sure if the models have changed. However, it helps to know where the notches are.
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  • The small notch is kind of between 7 and 8 o'clock (center of notch is about 1/2 inch to the right from the center of the black arrow marked above the "turn to release" on my steamer)
  • The big notch is kind of between 1 and 2 o'clock.
  • The notches on my hose are at the seams. Small notch is underneath the hose, large notch faces forward.
  • Line the front seam of the refill cap/hose between 1-2 o'clock. I pried with a flat head screw driver.
  • After I got mine off I marked the notches, but will still probably store it detached to avoid this in the future! Good luck!

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1 Answer

Set the cam shaft timing

G'day, from memory the GS you just line up the 't' mark on the alternator flywheel, then put the exhaust cam in with the notch in the right hand end facing forwards level with the head surface, then put the inlet cam in with the notch facing rear-wards, put the tensioner in & double check. I'm not 100% on the direction of the notches, but you can check that the lobes on cyl 1 are both facing evenly away from the valves as far as possible, that should be lined up & away you go, hope this helps :)

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