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disconnect the power steering lines from the rack. remove the roll pin or bolt that fastens the steering colume to the rack. makes sure the steering wheel is in the straight ahead position and stays there. raise vehicle remove wheels. disconnect the outer tie rod ends from the spindles. support the sub frame, unbolt the sub frame bolts that hold it to the car. you may only have to undo the rear ones and loosen the front ones there will be 4 of them. lower the rear of the sub frame enough to remove the steering rack. make sure the rack is in the centered position like you want to go straight ahead. then install in reverse order. when connecting the rack to the steering colume make sure the master slot is lined up properly or they won`t match up. then fill and bleed power steering system.
Check the brake rotors up front for bluing or spalling, you may have had pads replaced, but if a caliper gets stuck so it cannot move in relation to the abutement it is bolted to, or a piston is not fully retracting, this can cause that as well,
Also take a look at the rear springs- the shackles, where the shackles mount to the frame and the spring leaves- you may have broken main leaf which if broke a certain way, could allow the rear axle to shift it's orientation to the rest of the vehicle. Also look to see if the frame is twisted- it is a boxed frame, but it is soft.
If you have power steering, put the front wheels up in the air and block the rear wheels so it does not fall off, then start the vehicle and see if the steering will allow you to steer from stop to stop with one finger. If it has a power steering valving issue, it will show up by spinning the wheel out of your control until it hits the stop.
If the alignment is truly that bad, or the vehicle has been in an accident, you will see odd wear patterns across the tires. Getting what is called a "thrust alignment" or "4 Wheel" alignment will make the vehicle drivable.
The front suspension allows each wheel to compensate for changes in the road surface without affecting the opposite wheel. Each wheel independently connects to the frame with a steering knuckle, ball joint assemblies, and upper and lower control arms.
The control arms specifically allow the steering knuckles to move in a three-dimensional arc. Two tie rods connect to steering arms on the knuckles and an intermediate rod. These operate the front wheels.
The two-wheel drive vehicles have coil chassis springs. These springs are mounted between the spring housings on the frame and the lower control arms. Double, direct acting shock absorbers are inside the coil springs. The coil springs attach to the lower control arms and offer ride control.
The upper part of each shock absorber extends through the upper control arm frame bracket. This bracket has two grommets, two grommet retainers, and a nut.
A spring stabilizer shaft controls the side roll of the front suspension. This shaft is mounted in rubber bushings that are held by brackets to the frame side rails. The ends of the stabilizer shaft connect to the lower control arms with link bolts. Rubber grommets isolate these link bolts. Rubber bushings attach the upper control arm to a cross shaft. Frame brackets bolt the cross shaft.
A ball joint assembly is riveted to the outer end of the upper control arm. A rubber spring in the control arm assures that the ball seats properly in the socket. A castellated nut and a cotter pin join the steering knuckle to the upper ball joint.
The inner ends of the lower control arm have pressed-in bushings. The bolts pass through the bushings and join the arm to the frame. The lower ball joint assembly is a press fit in the lower control arm and attaches to the steering knuckle with a castellated nut and a cotter pin.
Ball socket assemblies have rubber grease seals. These seals prevent entry of moisture and dirt and damage to the bearing surfaces.
Four-wheel drive models have a front suspension that consists of the control arms, a stabilizer bar, a shock absorber, and right and left torsion bars. The torsion bars replace the conventional coil springs. The lower control arm attaches to the front end of the torsion bar. The rear end of the torsion bar mounts on an adjustable arm at the crossmember. This arm adjustment controls the vehicle trim height.
Two-wheel drive vehicles have tapered roller sheel bearings. These bearings are adjustible and need lubrication.
Four-wheel drive models and RWD Utilities have sealed front-wheel bearings. These bearings are pre-adjusted and need no lubrication.
Heat treatment may create darkened areas on the bearing assembly. This discoloration does not signal a need for replacement.
Hope this helps?
Remove the pinch bolt from the lower intermediate steering shaft
Loosen all insulator clamp attaching bolts.
Place a jack stand under the center of the rear frame cross member.
Remove the rear frame-to-body bolts.
Lower the rear of the frame just enough to gain access to the stabilizer shaft.
Remove the insulator clamp bolts and the clamps from the frame.
Remove the insulators from the stabilizer bar.
Remove the stabilizer bar links from the control arms.
Pull the stabilizer shaft rearward.
Insert the stabilizer shaft to the left side of the vehicle. Important: DO NOT tighten the stabilizer link nut at this time. The weight of the vehicle must be supported by the control arms such that you can obtain the vehicle design trim heights before tightening the link nut.
Loosely install the stabilizer shaft link at the control arm.
Install the insulators on to the stabilizer bar.
Connect the insulator clamps to the frame.
Tighten the stabilizer shaft bracket bolts to 48 Nm (35 ft. lbs.) .
Raise the frame into position while you guide the steering shaft onto the gear.
Install the new frame-to-body attaching bolts.
Remove the jack stand.
Install the pinch bolt and tighten.
Install the left tire and wheel assembly.
Lower the vehicle.
Support the weight of the vehicle by the control arms.
Tighten the stabilizer link nut.
Tighten the stabilizer shaft link nut to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.)
There you are, I hope your job goes well. Thank you for using FixYa.
Raise and safely support the vehicle, allowing the front suspension to hang freely.
Remove both front tire and wheel assemblies. CAUTION Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage may cause a loss of steering control and possibly, personal injury. NOTE: The wheels of the vehicle must be straight ahead and the steering column in the LOCK position before disconnecting the steering column or intermediate shaft from the steering gear. Failure to do so will cause the SIR coil assembly to become uncentered, which will damage the coil.
If equipped, move the intermediate shaft cover upward, then unfasten the intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.
Using a suitable puller, separate both tie rod ends from the steering knuckles.
Position a suitable drain pan under the power steering fluid lines. Remove the power steering fluid line retainer, then disconnect the outlet and inlet hoses from the steering gear. Allow the fluid to drain, then plug the lines to avoid contaminating the system.
Fig. 1: Power steering fluid line routing - non-supercharged engine shown
Fig. 3: Power steering hose routing and orientation - supercharged engine shown
Remove the steering gear assembly-to-chassis mounting bolts.
Support the body with suitable jackstands to allow for the lowering of the frame.
Loosen the front frame mounting bolts.
Remove the rear frame bolts, then lower the rear of the frame about 3 inches (76mm). WARNING Do not lower the frame too far, or you could damage the engine components nearest the cowl.
Remove the steering gear assembly by maneuvering it through the left wheel well opening.
Fig. 4: Power steering gear mounting, with retainer tightening sequence and specifications
Install the rack and pinion assembly into the vehicle, maneuvering it through the left wheel well opening.
Raise the rear of the frame, then install the frame bolts and tighten to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm).
Install the rack and pinion assembly-to-chassis bolts. Tighten the rack mounting bolts to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm).
Remove the jackstands.
Apply Loctite® thread locking kit 1052624, or equivalent thread locking compound to the steering gear mounting bolts.
Install the steering gear mounting bolts, and washers, then tighten the retainers to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm) in the sequence shown in the accompanying figure.
Unplug and attach the power steering gear outlet and inlet hoses, then tighten the fittings to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
Install the power steering fluid line retainer.
Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the nuts to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm). Install a new cotter pin. Tighten the nut up to an additional 1?6 turn, or to 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) to align the cotter pin slot. Do not loosen the nut to install the cotter pin.
Install the intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt and tighten to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm). If equipped, move the intermediate shaft cover upward into position.
Install both front tire and wheel assemblies, then carefully lower the vehicle.
Refill the power steering pump reservoir, then bleed the power steering system and check for leaks.
Take the vehicle to a reputable repair shop and have the front end alignment checked and adjusted as necessary.
Removing the rack and pinion assembly from a 2002 Pontiac Grand Am Se
To get the old rack and pinion off of the car for replacement involves lowering the sub-frame, removing the stabilizer bar, and pulling the rack out from the driver side of the vehicle.
Start by lifting or jacking up the car and removing the front wheels. Once the car is safely supported, disconnect both tie rods from the steering knuckles.
The rear motor mount sits on top of the cross-member part of the sub-frame, and must be disconnected to allow the sub-frame to drop a few inches. Remove the three bolts attaching it to the center of the sub-frame - one in the back and two in the front near the back of the transmission.
Loosen the two bolts holding the front of the sub-frame. Place a scissor jack or bottle jack under the rear of the sub-frame where the bolt for the motor mount was. Remove the two smaller bolts from each side of the rear of the sub-frame (total 4 bolts) and then loosen the two remaining larger bolts holding the rear of the sub-frame (these bolts go through the rear control arm bushings and are very long) until the bolts are only going through the control arm bushing, and not into the chassis. You do not need to remove these completely.
Remove the stabilizer links from both sides.
Next you must disconnect the steering linkage. This is done easily by lifting up the rubber boot to expose the small bolt holding the linkage. Remove the bolt and pry the linkage upward using a pry tool or screw driver.
Near the passenger side of the crossmember, remove the bolt holding the power steering line bracket to the chassis. You may now begin to lower the sub-frame using the jack. The front bolts should have lowered the sub-frame about a half-inch or so, allowing you to lower the back of the sub-frame 3 or 4 inches.
With the sub-frame lowered, you can now access the bolts holding the stabilizer bar in place. The right side has a nut screwed onto the top of it holding the power steering lines, remove this first, then remove both bolts. Pry or pull the stabilizer brackets up and out. Remove the stabilizer bar.
Now you can get to both of the bolts holding the rack in place. Remove both of these, then begin to slide the rack toward the driver side wheel well until there is no more slack in the power steering lines. At this point you should be able to get to the nuts securing the lines on the rack. Loosen both nuts and be ready with something to cap the ends with. I used part of a plastic bag and a wire to tie it. You can now pull the rack out through the driver side.
Be sure to replace the rubber o-rings on the ends of the lines when putting the new rack in. Replace everything in the reverse order. Put your tie rods on the new rack, making sure to count the turns or make a mark or measure to be sure your tie rods end up close to the same length as before.
Bleed the power steering system.
Important: Get an alignment! Not only is it dangerous to drive with your steering out of align but it will also grate the tread off your tires in a matter of weeks or even days.
4X4? you have to disconnect steering shaft from steering column lock steering wheel with seat belt first, then remove power steering lines and then the 3 bolts that hold the gear box to frame rail, any problems write back please give feed back