Question about Bosch 24 in. SHX33A05 Stainless Steel Built-in Dishwasher
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: bosch shu 9950
Take off the front panel (10 little screws, two shims will fall out) and you'll see the two handle bolts on the inside of the panel. Tighten 'em; reinstall the panel (good luck figuring out how the shims go back...)
Posted on Jan 13, 2009
If this is a new Bosch Dishwasher then there should be two metal tabs that protrude from the top of the tub above the door. These tabs are for top mounting the dishwasher to a wood countertop, however these tabs also can be relocated to side mount the dishwasher to the cabinetry. The way to do this is to pull the dishwasher out of the hole it is in, in the counter (be careful not to pull too hard or to move the machine out too far due to the length of the water and electric lines). just pull it out easy till you can see the tabs, Now using a pair of pliers, bend the tabs on the backside of the mounts straight so you can remove them from the framing of the dishwasher. Next look at the tabs there should be a perforation where you can use 2 pairs of pliers to snap the tabs off at the perforation, after snapping off these tabs, look at the sides of the dishwasher and you will see a slot where you can reattach the tabs into, and bend the tabs in the back to hold them in place. If you look at the rubber gasket material on both sides of the machine - you can see where the round holes are located for side mounting. Attach the tabs and gently push the machine back into the cabinetry. Now using a small drill bit, drill a pilot hole into both sides of the cabinets to mount the dishwasher. You want to drill these pilot holes so as not to split the counter facing when you drill in the screws. Using the Bosch screws that came with the dishwasher (or small flat phillips screws) slowly screw in the screws into the sides of the cabinetry. When you attempt to remove the machine from the cabinetry you may find that it is adjusted tight to the countertop. If this is the case you will need to remove the 2 screws that hold the kickplate in at the bottom of the dishwasher in the front and remove the kickplate. Then you will need to bring up the front legs on both the left and the right and also the rear leg which is adjusted up and down by using a flat blade screwdriver. Look at the front of the dishwasher, behind the kickplate and there will be a adjusting screw with arrows which point left to right. the direction you turn this screw will determine which way the dishwasher will adjust,- right adjusts the machine higher and left lower. Good luck!!!!!! Hope this helps.
Posted on Feb 05, 2009
There is a recall on the control board of many of these models, butyour problem is likely not related. A sticking impeller indicates that the pump may be failing, but you are welcome to try my guide to help. It is here. Thanks!
Posted on Jul 19, 2009
BAD CONTROL BOARD TO TEST TO SEE IF THIS IS THE ISSUE RUN TEST PROGRAM
To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by
pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ “20” = version 0 without jumper). When
wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and
REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display
alone). Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start
button is pressed.
To start testing, press both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended,
Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added
together, (e.g./ “6” = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil,
measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays
at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where
testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150ºF) and
water won’t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and
testing will end shortly after water has started circulating
Posted on Jul 20, 2009
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