Lost power after storm -unit will not reset - don't get the heart beat "led" --will not turn on -cool , heat or just the fan
Tried setting thermostat to all off modes and then turning off all power going to furnance using the fuze box -after 5 min wait repowered unit - led light stays on but faint ,no blinking . tried this twise same out come what sould i try next ?? - thx for the help
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Re: lost power after storm -unit will not reset - don't...
There should be an automotive 3 amp fuse on the circuit board. It should be good, IF you are getting a heartbeat, but check it anyway. Considering it was a storm, I'd look at the grounds. Make sure it is making a good and solid connection to the ground lug. Grounds make freaky problems sometimes.
You mentioned 'fuse box' and not a breaker box. The furnaces of today with their circuit boards require a good ground all the way back to the ground lug in the box. Sometimes they will work fine without, then decide they are not gonna work at all. Sometimes, even a dry ground rod outside the house is the culprit.
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The snow flake indicates that the mode is set for cooling, not hearing our both heating and cooling.
There should be two temperatures given by the thermostat, one is the actual room temperature and the other is the temperature setting. The room temperature reading only changes with room temperature change. The thermostat setting temperature changes when the up or down button is pressed.
If your room temperature, say it it's 80° and the temperature is set lower than 80° with a snowflake, the fan should run and start blowing cool/cold air. If you system does not do this, then there is a problem. The problem can be the fan housing cover is not making contact due to the cover not installed properly, nothing will run in this case, no fan. It can be there is no power delivered to the indoor fan, or to the outdoor fan, both these fans must run during thermostat calling for cooling.
The thermostat is not something to be reset as you asked but rather, you check that both fans run and that the outdoor fan makes compressor noise.
Come back with your findings or call a service person. One last try is to shut power to both indoor and outdoor parts of the system and then restore power in attempts to reset the unit or power circuit breakers
the blower unit or air handler is actually blowing air through the ductwork.
Here are the details of what to check in what order if your air condtioner or heat pump doesn't start at all when you set the room thermostat to call for cooling:
Check the Room Thermostat Temperature Setting: Set the thermostat to at least 5 degrees below room temperature. Our elderly mom has no patience with switches and controls. She regularly calls her air conditioning service company with a service request, sometimes late at night, because she has simply failed to set the temperature on the thermostat lower than the room temperature. Don't drive your A/C like our mother.
Check that the Room Thermostat is set to "Cool"not "Off" or "Heat". If the thermostat is not set to "cool" it is simply turning off your A/C. If the thermostat display is blank then it's not receiving power (for modern digital thermostats). Check that electrical power is on at the air handler and to the the low-voltage transformer that supplies power to the thermostat.
If the thermostat has power, check that when you set the thermostat temperature down at least 5 degrees below room temperature the thermostat calls for cooling. If it doesn't then check for broken or shorted thermostat wires anywhere between the wall thermostat and the control board at the air handler.
You can easily eliminate possible thermostat problems as a cause of failure of the air conditioner to start by simply eliminating the thermostat from the picture: disconnect the thermostat wires at the blower unit's control board and instead connect the two thermostat terminals directly together with a jumper wire. If the system starts then the problem is in the thermostat itself or in its wiring.
If the thermostat is working but the compressor condenser unit won't start, you could skip ahead
to COMPRESSOR / CONDENSER DIAGNOSTICSbut I wish you'd double check the remaining steps in this article first because there are some sneaky snafus listed below that might still be the problem.
Check that electricity is on for the equipment. Check all of the electrical switches and controls that can turn electrical power off at the indoor air handler or at the outdoor compressor/condenser unit. There are more of these switches than you might guess. Here's a list of what to check:
Electrical power switches and service switches outside by the compressor, inside at the air handler, and fuses or circuit breakers in the electrical panel. Don't forget to check that the access covers to the equipment are properly closed and latched. Otherwise a BLOWER DOOR SAFETY SWITCH could be keeping the equipment from running.
There are several other safety switches and controls, both manual and automatic that can leave an air conditioner or heat pump turned "off" such as a blower compartment door interlock safety switch, an electric motor overload or overheat switches, and a condensate tray spillage detector switch.
Check the electrical supply voltage. Even if electricity is on, if the supply voltage has fallen too far below the operating voltage range of your air conditioner it's likely that the system will not operate, particlarly, you may note that the compressor motor won't start.
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There is a 3 amp fuse in the main circuit board. If this fuse is bad ,nothing will work but because of the batteries in the thermostat it will lead you to believe that the unit is working properly,however, it is only showing you what is supposed to be. Replace the fuse and everything will work.
Check the unit that's located outside .You need to open it to get to the control board ,there you will see a couple of buss fuses. Check to see if fuses are fine. Do this with the power OFF on disconnect