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Juki mo 812

I am having difficulty getting a good looking tension on the lower looper thread. I changed from a heavier fabric to a lighter weight fabric and the tension went off in the lower looper. Top seemed to be ok. Then when I switched back to the heavier fabric I couldn't get it to where it was before. How do I adjust for different weight fabrics. Is it in the differential feed? What else do I need to know.

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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bargainbox
  • 1388 Answers

SOURCE: how do I know which tension to adjust?

Are you sure that a stitch is being created each time, or is it missing some....

On a scrap, sew a zigzag to ensure that at least the stitches are being formed, if not, or missing some, look to timing.

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your
projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with
a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

4c76dc1.jpg ...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
165ca5c.jpg FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistant diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !

If you want any more help with this, just post back here, or, drop a line through the "Contact Us" page at www.bargainbox.com.au

Posted on Feb 24, 2008

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  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Lower thread tension is too loose but no adjustment seems to work

From your description it appears that you have tried tension settings on the upper tension control adjustment knob without success.
Check that the bobin tension is adjusted correctly by taking out the bobin complete with the spool.
Pull the cotton thread and it should be a smooth light pressure if the tension is correct. If it is tight to pull or pulls freely then adjust the tension screw which is found on the outside of the bobbin. The screw is very small and requires a minature size screwdriver. The adjustment will only be a slight turn of the screw one way or the other to obtain the correct tension(depending if it was loose or tight).
Once this is set reinstall the bobin and tread up the machine, hopefully with the upper tension set at approx."2" the machine will sew correctly.

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

SewExpress
  • 41 Answers

SOURCE: bobbin thread/feed dog eating fabric

This is a very common problem with really lightweight fabric and can often be cured (if doing straight stitching) by using a straight stitch needle plate and foot. The wider needle plate and foot openings on newer machines give the machine/thread a wider area to pull the fabric into the machine. By using a straight stitch plate/foot you remove the wide opening, eliminating the majority of the problem.

Also - try using a specially coated needle (Teflon or other non-stick finish). The thread feeds more smoothly through the needle and the needle more smoothly through the fabric, causing less drag into the needle plate opening.

Hope this helps. Don't hesitate to respond to this if you have further specific questions. We're always happy to help

Happy stitching,
Kim & Linnette
www.sewingexpressions.com

Posted on Dec 03, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: fabric does not move forward

When I first got my creative 1473 it was pretty much the same story... after gentle repeated tries over the next few days the presser bar came down all the way. It simply hadn't been touched in 20 years and needed some 'warming up', so to speak.

Posted on May 24, 2009

  • 1116 Answers

SOURCE: I get loops on top and/or bottom of fabric during

Top tension back to 4 and leave the bobbin tension as is.

Make sure you have a new needle for the type of fabric being sewn installed with the flat side to the back of the machine. A bent needle can sometimes go unnoticed.

Always thread the machine with the presser foot up and this will give proper tension to the stitch.

Check the manual to be sure you are threading correctly (always with the presser foot up) and that the bobbin thread is feeding in the correct direction from the bobbin spool and through the guides.

Take hold of the thread at the needle as you lower and raise the needle to pull up the bobbin thread. Take both thread ends under the presser foot and to the back of the machine.



Posted on Mar 11, 2010

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1 Answer

Threading diagram needed for the looping needles


There are quite a few pictures of threading diagrams on the internet. Just perform a search for the make + model + the word "threading."

Be sure to follow the threading order specified in your owner's manual. If the order is not followed accurately, the machine will most likely not work properly. Also, be sure to RAISE the presser foot BEFORE threading. While threading each thread, grasp the thread with one hand between the thread tree and the tension disk and grasp the thread below the tension disk with the other hand and gently tug the thread to make sure it has seated in the tension disk. With most sergers, the lower looper thread MUST drape over the top of the upper looper in its final threading process Before being pulled under the presser foot.

Juki MO 816 threading Google Search

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0ahUKEwiOt_7mqbHKAhVK52MKHc5XB5MQFggdMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.raichert.com%2Fadobe%2FMO804-12-16%2520Inst.pdf&usg=AFQjCNH1vfonoEQ29McTsOItvQoW8ECZag&cad=rja

If any either looper thread breaks or comes unthreaded, it is the best advice to unthread all the looper threads and re-thread from the BEGINNING. Just bite the bullet and do it. It will save a lot of frustration.

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  1. . re-thread your machine with a rainbow of colors. (important that you remove the existing threads if you are not sure it is threaded properly.) make sure you are lifting the presser foot while rethreading.
  2. Sew a good 6 inches.
  3. Look to see which threads are the offenders and tighten the co-responding tension knobs a little.
  4. Sew another 6 inches. Examine the result. Adjust tension again if needed.
  5. Work this way until you have the stitch balanced.
  6. Finally when your stitches are perfect. clip the threads at the spools in back. And tie on the coordinating colored thread for your fabric.
Get used to this procedure since it is common to have to adjust tensions when you change fabric. Good luck!

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Also check that you are getting the thread into the tension dials correctly, pull downwards and there should be resistance on the thread, if this isn't there at all, then take thread out and try threading around the dial again to seat thread in fully.

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Open the front panel to get to your lower loopers and I think there should be a threading diagram inside on the door. Then always have test fabric that matches your project fabric. Sew a 3 " seam, check the seam.... adjust tension. If you want to get really good at seeing what's what in tension is doing thread each thread with a different color. To do your test stitches.

I've not found a manual that doesn't cost.

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With some sergers you must thread in a certain sequence. This should be indicated in the instructions on the serger.

Set the tensions back to normal ( 4 - 6), lower the presser foot and run a length of stitching to see if the threads are knitted together as they should before you start serging your project.

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