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THE DRAINAGE PAN IS OVERFLOWING AND FLOODING THE FLOOR; WHAT IS THE PROBLEM AND HOW IS IT RECTIF- IED?

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  • whttailtx Jun 24, 2009

    My problem is with a Soleus portable evaporative a/c which USED TO (1)discharge the moisture through a dual hose system; and (2) shut off the unit if the pan was full. Now it does neither.

  • whttailtx Jun 26, 2009

    Our "PORTABLE" AC is an upright unit, on casters, that can be moved from room to room. It is NOT a window unit. Two 4" corrugated hoses (intake and discharge)are attached to a window opening. I understand there is a type of heating unit that is responsible for discharging the moisture. Whatever is responsible for this function is not working.

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Ensure that you placed the unit on a leveled surface. If still water is leaking from the unit check if the drainage plug is loose. Make drain tube properly secured and plugged. Also check if the water bucket is full. If you need manufacturer assistance check here:
http://www.sylvane.com/customer-service.html

Posted on Jun 26, 2009

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Air conditioners have a cooling system identical to a refrigerator's. It is important not to turn the unit off and then back on right away. Wait at least ten minutes after shutting the unit off to allow the pressure in the refrigeration system to equalize once again. This will prolong the life of your air conditioner.




It is normal for water to collect in the lower base of an air conditioner. See the section entitled: "There is water sloshing around inside." If water leaks out the front it is usually because the unit is tilted forward in the window frame. All air conditioners should be installed so they tilt slightly back to allow for proper removal of the condensation collected.



very air conditioner has a motor called a compressor. The compressor provides the cooling capacity for the air conditioner. If the compressor or its electrical controls are defective the compressor may try to start, fail, and create an electrical overload. If the unit does create an overload, every compressor circuit is also equipped with an overload safety switch. The safety switch is designed to protect the compressor from burning out. The safety switch will cut the power to the compressor for a certain length of time and then reset itself. When it resets it will allow the electricity to flow to the compressor once again. If the compressor then starts, the unit should function normally. If the compressor doesn't start when the overload resets, the overload will again cut the electricity to the compressor. This cycle will continue indefinitely. (Always allow three to five minutes before restarting the compressor.) If this situation is occurring, unplug the air conditioner and get help from a qualified repair technician. This problem is often fatal to the air conditioner because the cost of repair often exceeds the price of a new air conditioner.

All window air conditioners will remove moisture from the air if there is any. Most window air conditioners collect this moisture in the bottom pan of the air conditioner and attempt to evaporate the moisture. The evaporation process works as follows: First, the water drips down off of the cold evaporator coils on the front of the unit. Then the water collects in the bottom of the air conditioner base, the "pan." If the air conditioner is installed properly it will be tilted slightly back.

The water then collects near the back of the unit. On some units, the fan blade used to cool the rear condensing coils will have a rim on the outside of the fins of the blade. This rim, or "slinger," will come close to touching the inside of the air conditioner pan when the fan is spinning. As the water collects in the pan and reaches the depth necessary for the fan ring to touch it, the ring will lift some of the water up and the fan will blow it at the condensing coils. Because the coils are warm, they will evaporate the moisture to the outside.

While this is happening it is normal to hear water splashing and sloshing around. As long as there is no water leaking inside the room that is being cooled there is no cause for concern.

Never drill into the bottom of and air conditioning unit to "let the water out."









The condensing coils on an air conditioner will get very dirty over time. However, the dirt tends to accumulate on the inside of the coils, out of site. It will be necessary to remove the entire cover of the air conditioner to gain access to the coils. They can be cleaned by blowing compressed air at them or by using a soft bristle brush to wipe the dirt off. It is important to also clean any dirt or lint build-up in the bottom of the air conditioner so the condensate water will be picked up by the condensing fan slinger properly.

Posted on Jun 24, 2009

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Hi,

First, make sure that it is the overflow.
AC units have a condensation line. This is a necessary option as cooling the air causes condensation, much like a cold glass of water will condensate on the outside of the glass. The condensate line should be draining to a safe place, and draining whenever the unit is running.
The unit should also have a secondary condensate line (overflow). this line should be separate from the main condensate line and be draining to a conspicuous place. If this line is draining, then you should check to see if the primary drain line is plugged. Anything from lint and dust to dead rats and mice have been pulled out of condensate drain lines.
If you do not know how to get to this, call a professional and use the primary and secondary condensate verbiage to let him know that you are not an ignorant putz that he can take advantage of. That should save you a few dollars on the bill.


There are some more points that might help you if you want to Fix it yourself :-

TIP 1 - An easy way to clear the overflow pvc pipe is to acquire a cheap sprayer at your local hardware store ($15). With this sprayer you pump it tightly with air only and then release the air into the pipe. Repeat this process multiple times into the pipe and you are golden! I learned this from my A/C man who promptly charge me $75 for his service call.

TIP 2 - Use the air compresor instead of pump sprayer. Also, since I capped my washouts with threaded couplers, I screw in a cap with a hole drilled just big enough to insert the air nozzle. A couple of bursts like you said and I could hear the water runnning through the drain which exits into the house plumming. The “shower” outside stpooed and the hole the leak made is drying out. Thanks again for the tip.

TIP 3 - If you can find a way to pour bleach and water mixture into the line, that might be enough to clear it out. If not, you’ll likely need to flush it with something more forceful like a blower or power washer.

Thanks for using "Fixya".



Posted on Jun 23, 2009

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