Went to bake dinner the oven and accidently slide over to oven cleaning instead of bake...dinner is in ... now what? Turned off the oven and still the oven door won't open. Help~~!!! Do I just turn off the electrical power and wait for the heat to cool down in the oven.
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Is this a whirlpool product wall oven or free standing if so you will need to get door open to provide a model number then I can tell you If it has a thermal cavity fuse most models you can slide a flexible piece of plastic between oven top and latch and push to left to get door open keep me posted
Okay this doesn't make sense did the breaker trip if so look for a short to ground I have serviced many of wall ovens in self clean the TOD does trip do you have a display if not the thermal cavity fuse is open if it stopped in self clean the door is locked as a tech I went to the auto store and bought some feeler gauges use one at the top of the door in the middle slide gauge between door and body push to the left to release the catch door should open
Good Afternoon Mr Oliver!
Often, if Whirlpool oven starts to do things on its own.. the touchpad might be failing or faulty. Keys fail and short, meaning they think they're being pressed when they actually aren't. Do you have the model number of you oven?
Need to know the exact model to be sure, but usually there is a button that says "lock" or has a padlock icon that you press and hold for a minute or so to lock and unlock.
Also, if they started a cleaning cycle, that will lock the door, too.
The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself. There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again. *On -some- Frigidaire built ranges, the switch is located behind the right hand side panel and activated by the right hand door hinge. On this model, the side panel may need to be removed to access a malfunctioning door switch.
Please do rate the solution as FixYa and revert for further assistance.
Turns out that the latch is attached to a plastic piece (made by the manufacturer) and the spring melted! To boot, the fuse in the back which aids in heating the oven went out also. Repair man said this was typical after several uses in cleaning cycle. He recommended using a gentle steel wool pad with soap built in to gently remove backed on food instead of using cleaning cycle. It is just too hot for too long, and there seems to be a domino effect with things that will go wrong. Nothing like the old fashioned way and a little elbow grease!
I had the same problem the first time I used the cleaning cycle. The oven was under warranty when it occurred so I watched the repairman when he fixed it. He not only installed a larger fan, but he had to replace a thermocouple that is on the back of the oven, part number 4450934. The oven seems to die (lose power) after every cleaning cycle. I'm now ordering my third thermocouple. To replace the part, you have to pull the oven out from the wall to access the back. To do that, open the oven door. (If your door is locked because of the cleaning cycle, you may have to
take a hacksaw blade to slip it in to see if you can trip the latch.
The repair man was lucky when he did mine as the door clicked open when
he was just messing with it so I don't know any trick to get it
unlocked. He said that because the thermocouple died, it didn't provide the signal to unlatch the door, so the oven thinks it's still at 500 degrees and keeps the door locked which is part of the safety process). If you do get the door open, on the sides of the oven itself, at the bottom inside hinge of the door, you will see a screw holding the molding (frames the side of the opening of the stove). Remove each screw (left side and right side at the bottom) and pull the molding off. You now have access to the screws that hold the oven to the cabinet that it is sitting in. Remove those screws (mine has one on each side) and you can then slide the oven out. It's heavy so you will need help or have some thing you can slide it on to. It needs to come out far enough so you can access the back. You will see the thermocouple on the back, held on with two screws. Remove the wires and take the part off and throw it away (or keep it so you know what to order again next time as you will be replacing it again after you do another cleaning cycle) GREAT WHIRLPOOL PRODUCT. Reverse the process and you will be baking in no time.