Question about Electrical Supplies
I have two gensets an 1500 and a 1750 , both run but no output . Looking for generator test procedures ?.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Pull off the cover at the end of the generator and locate a 2 lead capacitor, it should read 130UF 200V and replace it, they often go bad and you will not have any output if they are. colman has them for 20.00 shipped. 1-800-445-1805
Posted on Feb 04, 2009
Try replacing the capacitor. You can buy it from http://www.jackssmallengines.com/do_it_home.html. When you pull off the power end of the generator look at the diodes also. If they look toasted replace them as well
Posted on Feb 07, 2009
This sound like a loss of residual magnetism in the generator. The field will need to be "flashed".This is also known as re-exciting the field of the generator.
The Coleman manual gives these steps:
1Use a 6 Volt lantern batters (dry cell) or a 12 Volt automotive battery.
2.Disconnect all loads from generator.
3. Remove the brush cover (that's the rectangular plastic cover on the end of the generator.)
4. Plug a lamp or light into the generator before starting the engine. The light will illuminlate when ?Voltage has returned.
5. Start the engine with no load connected to the generator.
6. Attach the "-" lead of the battery to the negative brush. Very briefly touch the "+" lead of the battery to the positive brush. Remove as soon as Voltage builds up.
Posted on Oct 09, 2009
Check the voltage sent to the field when running. It will probably be around 12 volts. You can try connecting a lantern battery BRIEFLY to the field to re-magnetize the field. Try bothe polarites.
Some have had a bad rectifier and one had a bad transformer that generaates the low voltage from the generated output. He had a broken wire from the winding to the wire from the transformer. He was able to reconnect the failed solder joint.
Posted on Apr 16, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks for info. I had it solved. I found the 130uf 200V rated cap was bad. 12 volts to the brushed did re-energize the field, power is operating. TY"
Well, its not exactly a published procedure, but this is what I would do.
Check field for continuity between leads, as well as continuity from each lead to the core. Between leads, you should have continuity, but you shouldn't be able to measure anything (perhaps in megohm range) between leads and core.
Once you have continuity, check your diode. You should have continuity in one direction only. If not, replace diode. Don't worry about capacitor / regulator at this moment.
Check stator winding for continuity between leads, (don't forget the 12 volt winding too), as well as between each lead and the core. You should not have continuity to the core from any lead.
Make sure breakers are reset, then check continuity through them. Should have it, replace if not. Same goes for the outlet itself.
Reassemble the engine, and start it. Check for a DC voltage at the 12volt battery charger port. If you have it, then your capacitor / regulator is shot. If you don't have it, replace the diode (even if checked good) and the capacitor / regulator. If still don't have 120vac, you can try to flash the field by momentarily touching a small lamp battery (6 volt lantern) to the core, and to one of the brushes. Just for a moment. Then restart. Exact flashing instructions are usually in the user manual.
Posted on Jun 12, 2010
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