Question about GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

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It started with not defrosting after defrosting unit runs but doesn't cool.

About three weeks ago My refrigerator stopped cooling while the freezer worked well. Thanks to this DB I found my evaporator coils were iced up so I thawed them and clean my condenser coils. Everything seemed to work well. Now, three weeks later my neither refrigerator nor freezer will cool. I have checked the evaporator - there is no ice on the evaporator coils. I have check both freezer thermisters At 32 degrees they measure 16,300 ohms respectfully. I don't know what to check next.

Posted by Anonymous on

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Sea Breeze
  • 4654 Answers

SOURCE: evaporator coil freezing, replaced main control

It is possible you have a defective fan motor in the condenser area or evaporator area. Sometimes when they become defective they will run for a while and just warm up and stop while the compressor continues to run. I learned that one on four costly returns to the home. The cost was to me not the customer. Thanks, Sea Breeze

Posted on Aug 05, 2009

Sea Breeze
  • 4654 Answers

SOURCE: Stops cooling ice melts and leaks water on the floor

That model refrigerator uses the mother control board for deciding when defrost is to take place. It has no defrost timer or Adaptive Defrost Control like other refrigerators. This sounds like *********** board part number WR55X10942 is malfunctioning. The board decides most functions of your refrigerator. Until the board is replace I do not believe the problem will resolve itself. Thanks, Sea Breeze

Posted on Sep 26, 2009

aasc
  • 1606 Answers

SOURCE: Refrigerator does not cool.

Ok , I'll help you .
Pull the refrig out from the wall , and unplug . Remove the 8 " X 10 " panel on the back of the refrig . Inside this panel , is the main control board .
Remove the blue plug with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the plug , you will see : wire1 , wire2 , space , wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and remove about 1/4 inch of insulation , from both ends . Insert 1 end of the wire , into the slot of wire2 , and the other end , into wire3 .
Plug the refrig back in .
After about 2 min , look inside the freezer , behind the bottom crisper , and look for a red glow . This glow , is the defrost heater .
If no glow , this is an indication of a shorted defrost heater , or bad defrost thermostat , both of which are located behind the rear freezer panel . Unplug the refrig , and reinstall the blue connector , and the 8 x 10 panel .
The pt # for the heater is WR51X10101 , and the part number for the defrost bimetal is WR50X10068 . Both should be replaced . The heater is at the bottom of the coils , held on by 2 screws , and the thermostat , is clipped on the top right of the coils , with a blue and pink wire going to it .
If you do see a red glow , reasemble as above , and remove the rear inside freezer panel . At the top of the coils , on the left , you will see 2 white wires attached to a 1 " piece , which is clipped to the coils . This piece is the # 4 thermistor ( evaporator thermistor ) . Pt # WR55X10025 . Also replace the # 5 thermistor , ( freezer thermistor ) which is at the bottom of the panel , slid into a holder , also with 2 white wires going to it . Both thermistors , sent readings of temp , by coldness resistance , to the main control board , which then decides if it needs to defrost , or cycle off due to coldness reached .

Posted on Oct 11, 2009

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