Question about Freezers
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: beko cda653f
I'm not familiar with this brand of refrigerator but sounds as if you have a defrost system failure. most refrigs have a defrost timer that you can maually advance into defrost. if you can loate this on the unit then advance into defrost cycle if the heater comes on youll hear a sizzling noise from the ice melting on the heater. this means you have a bad timer. if the heater does not come on then you have a bad heater or defrost termination switch. I tried to find some service info for this mod but was unable to locate anything. good luck peyton
Posted on Jan 22, 2009
both freezer and fridge part not working fridge seems to be on, there is a click sound on every so often however 30seconds later another click sound is heard turning off something.
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
I have the same
model + problem. You should not need
to defrost this model manually if it's working correctly, but the ice build up you
describe is probably due to a blocked
pipe in the auto-defrost system at the back. You need to defrost properly to
Behind the upper freezer drawer there's an aluminium tray behind a plastic grille. Every few days this tray warms up to melt any accumulated ice behind this plastic grille (full height of the freezer). A pipe should take the meltwater down to a plastic tray below (pipe + plastic tray are visible if you take the lower panel off the back). Your problem is too much ice blocking that pipe: the heater can't cope and it doesn't melt, so the ice 'cascades' down the back behind the bottom drawer.
When you manually defrost, you must ensure that this pipe is clear, otherwise the auto-defrost won't work, and you may have to defrost manually again within days.
I have found that the best way to defrost the pipe is to remove the lower back panel, disconnect the corrugated flexible plastic pipe from the stub that comes from the bottom of the freezer, + pump steam into the stub (gently) using a hand-held steamer (with tube + nozzle). You don't have to empty the freezer or move your food as the door stays closed, and no steam gets into the freezer until the pipe is unblocked. Be sure to unplug the freezer before taking the back off! [There is a fan in this area that could start up without warning]
Check how much of the pipe is blocked by gentle probing with a pencil: the aluminium tray is about 105mm above the bottom of the stub. This measurement is important…
When the pipe is clear, there may still be too much ice in the aluminium tray above (not sure how much is 'too much') if you only created a narrow 'chimney' though the block of ice (likely to get blocked again). You need to widen that chimney by melting more of the ice in the aluminium tray. I use a simple steam nozzle made from an old-fashioned Bic pen with a couple of 1mm holes drilled just below the coloured bung at the end. This directs steam onto the walls of the 'chimney' rather than upwards.
There's no point steaming the walls of the plastic 'stub' pipe, so only use the home-made nozzle when your probe reaches 105mm (i.e. when you have melted all the ice in the plastic stub tube but before your 'chimney' has broken through the block of ice in the aluminium tray). If you judge this right, you'll melt almost all of the ice under a still-frozen top surface: no steam will get into the freezer and your food will stay frozen. With a probe it will be clear when you've broken through the top surface of the ice. When you have done so, it's time to look inside the freezer to see how well you have cleared the aluminium tray.
It's perfectly feasible to get all this done in 30 minutes.
Don't forget to replace the corrugated plastic pipe + valve at the bottom. It stops humid air from going into the freezer and icing up in exactly the area we've just been defrosting.
Take a lot of care with steam jets as they can burn you badly. You should check a first aid website so you know what to do BEFORE it happens.
Some of these tips may be helpful: (1) run the freezer at -18 degrees (the 'warmest' setting) so it's not working so hard. (2) Leave a big gap (>100mm) between the back of the freezer and the wall. (3) Clean the matrix of delicate tubes to the left of the fan whilst you have the back off [a small bottle brush is ideal; remove the fan for better access]. (4) Put something between the middle of the freezer and the wall to prevent the warm air that's being blown out behind the fridge from being sucked into the air intake behind the freezer (there is a baffle built in underneath, but nothing behind. (5) Mount the fan on spacers (with longer screws) so that it's closer to the heat exchanger… this means that a larger area of grille can act as an air intake. (6) Raise the unit off the floor a little to free up the air intake path beneath the freezer.
Posted on May 10, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
POTENTIAL BEKO REFRIGERATOR FIRE RISK AND RECALL NOTICE
I would normally give a pointer to articles I have already posted this response on, but as this is such a potentially serious matter, I have posted my entire response here for you.
According to several sources I have checked, including most importantly, BEKO's own website, the MODEL numbers (not serial numbers) affected by the recall are as follows:
The fridges affected were manufactured between January 2000 and October 2006. After shipping and sitting around in shops, you can probably extend that margin to machines SOLD between 2000 and 2008. The first 2 digits of the serial numbers indicate the year of manufacture, so if your serial number doesn't start 00, 01, 02, 03, 04, 05 or 06 you don't even need to check.
If you go to the BEKO website, there is a link to check your serial number:
The site also provides a mail address and a UK Freefone number that you can call (Though I've tried the number and it keeps cutting me off!! I presume they are swamped with calls)
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