I have fixed the thermostat, replaced the head gasket, and had the radiator redone. the temp gets to about 240-260 and pushs the water out the coolant resevoir. does this after about ten minutes or so. the coolant resevoir cap is busted
Did you check the head for when you had it off, This needs to be magna fluxed at a machine shop to check for heat .If the head gasket was replaced properly and torqued in the right increments and you replaced the thermostat and had the radiator redone this is about all it can be ,You can do a compression test to verify.
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I've had behaviour like this in one or two other vehicles (not Jeep) and it usually stemmed from air pockets or airlocks in the coolant liquid. This really plays up with the thermostat and temp gauge as they don't respond to hot air on the sensors like they do with hot liquid. If this is your problem then the real item to determine is why are there air pockets in the system. Cylinder head gasket leakage, corrosion of head casting or cylinder head cracks can cause this. Check out also that your coolant recovery tank isn't for any reason feeding air instead of water back into the radiator as it cools. A motor with this problem will quite often push water out of the system when driving and get worse when air gets back in to replace it.
Blown radiator hose? Might have blown a head gasket right there,which would continually send hot bubbles into the cooling system and degas bottle. If you see bubbles continually,it's a head gasket probably.
Might be the degas cap not releasing at 16 psi or your cooling system has air in it, OR your cooling fan is not actuating. Many things.
Also I have gotten 3 out of 5 bad thermostats from aftermarket stores. Get a Motorcraft thermostat. Did you replace with a NEW radiator?
a few things to check before we condemn it as a leaking head gasket(pressurising water out). First check the radiator cap seal,no cracks and that it takes some pressure to push the spring loaded part down. Does both the top and lower radiator hose get hot as temp gets to normal(where thermostat should be open).if not,the thermostat may be a faulty one or has slipped out of seat as the cover was bolted back down onto it.(temperature will differ either side of it).I have had some of these come in with part of the waterpump impellor rotted away.same symptom of one hot and one cold hose,and water doesnt flow inside radiator with cap off(ensure this is not removed if engine is hot)and temp where the thermo should be open. Possibly the radiator needs sending out for the top or side tank to be removed and each tube cleaned out.this is a lot more effective than trying to reverse flush with water only. But if temp is normal these areas should be fine. Do the hoses swell with pressure and become hard to squeeze in a short time?this could reveal a leaking head gasket and should be tested with a teekay type tester for the presence of cylinder gases in cooling system. Do the fan(s) come on if sitting idling at normal temp for 5-10mins?water can be pushed out if they dont come on or their cut in/out temp is incorrect.hope this helps. let me know some times re when it pushes water out,do you hear a boiling sound from inside engine or radiator when this happens,any other info that may help diagnose.
You won't like my answer but it sounds like you have a head gasket going away or a cylinder head is cracked. What is happening is that exhaust is getting into the cooling system and eventually pushing the coolant out of the heads. That's why after you bleed it out it's OK till it fills up with exhaust again.
Have system pressure tested when cold and full to top. Pressure test will force coolant out and you will be able to trace the leaks location. Hopefully it's a small hose leak and not a major problem like a blown head gasket or cracked head.
Does the vehicle overheat on the road? If it does and pushes big burps of coolant into the reserve tank then you could have a head gasket leak. Usually what happens with a head gasket leak is that the engine will often start and run normally but will soon start to push coolant out in a kind of foamy burp as the combustion gasses that accumulate in the engine block force their way out. You can have a small head gasket leak that allows combustion gasses to escape into the cooling system without getting coolant back into the engine and often the first symptoms of this kind of a leak is a motor that suddenly overheats, the heater quits blowing hot air and after a short while everything returns to normal for a day or so. As the leak worsens however it may keep pushing coolant out of the reserve tank with a cool or cold engine as the pressure builds to quickly for the reserve tank to handle it fully. Having said that if you have a perfectly good cooling system that is hot and take off the radiator cap it will spray blistering coolant coolant all over so never remove the cap from a warm or hot cooling system! Most additives won't stop a head gasket leak as there is just too much pressure for them to "stick" in the leak and they just get forced out of source of the leak. It's rare but you could have a water pump that's not circulating enough coolant around but usually you have different symptoms than this.
Several things ... best guess, in order:
1. (very likely) Radiator fan is not blowing (turn on car and a/conditioner. When compressor kicks in, the radiator fan must blow). If it ims not blowing, the radiator fan motor may be burned out ($40).
2. Check / replace "cooling fan" fuse ($1) and / or "cooling fan" relay switch ($7).
3. Could be (not likely) thermostat sticking shut. Replace thermostat ($20)
4. Could be radiator hose collapse (not very likely) ($18)
5. Radiator clog or hose leak (possible)
6. Head gasket broken (not likely unless you don't fix current problem) ($150)
The more detail of the symptoms, the better we can assist you.