Question about Maytag Refrigerators
Hi, I have a maytag refrigerator gt1626bas and it doesn't defrost, ice was all over, I melt it, and I checked the heater,but it's cold, few days ago it stoped working completely but in the back I found a part with 4 wires has like timer, I used a screw driver and turn it till clicked, then fridge worked but not defrosting, what I have to do to fix it?. thank you in advance. Mike
IS THE TIMER MOVING TO ACTIVATE A DEFROST CYCLE? IF SO THE HEATER MAYBE OPEN CIRCUIT; OR DEFROST SENSOR IS OPEN CIRCUIT EITHER WILL STOP A DEFROST CYCLE HENCE LOADS OF ICE!!!!!
Posted on Jun 02, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Please disconnect power from your refrigerator before attempting the following! You will likely need an adaptive defrost board for your refrigerator. The defrost thermostat and heater is only available as an assembly and can be checked while the unit is freezing by checking the resistance with a multimeter. there should be some resistance to the heater assembly but not infinite. If the resistance is high then the heater assembly will have to be replaced. Your model has an adaptive defrost board located in the upper right hand back portion of the control panel in the refrigerator side. This cover is removed by placing your fingers in the 2 indentations at the back of the cover one on the left and one on the right and pulling down and forward. Once the cover is off there are a couple of screws directly above the lights which have to be removed and a couple of hex head screws behind the number faceplate and on the back wall near the water filter. Once these are removed the whole housing will come down the board is at the far back right. It will either be a bare circuit board or a small white box. Just unplug it and replace it with a new one. This will correct 99% of the defrost problems on this line of refrigerators.
Posted on Mar 11, 2007
If one coil was burnt out and you replaced the heaters and defrost terminator switch I would recheck the continuity through the defrost heaters. You can do this with an Ohm meter with the refrigerator unplugged. If you had an open coil in one of the heaters you did not have to replace the thermo disk. If you have a complete circuit through the heaters try using the old thermo disk. If you have a meter you can check the voltage from the heater connection on one side to the inlet side of the thermo disk with the refrigerator running in the defrost mode. You should read 115-125 Volts on the meter. This reading tells you that the defrost timer is supplying power to the heater circuit.
Posted on Apr 30, 2008
You need to unplug the unit and check continuity with a meter across the defrost heater/s. If they are open, that's your problem. The defrost termination thermostat HAS to be below 20 degrees (varies model to model) to close. If at room temp it will read open. Doubtful it is your defrost timer.
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
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