Question about Fisher and Paykel Active Smart E522B Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

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Water leak fridge

Water collecting in bottom drawer area and overflowing onto floor. Plastic collection tray at back of fridge is dry leading me to believe that drain tube is blocked, backing up and overflowing into bottom drawer area. How to unblock any obstructions?

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The condensation in a fridge is generally routed to a small drain hole at the bottom at the back. The water drained off here normally drips onto the compressor unit (the big black ball thing at the back) where it gets evaporated off, due to the heat the compressor generates. Before taking steps to unblock the drain, you might consider defrosting the fridge first. When unblocking the drain, do not use wire, unless the fridge is switched off and unplugged, you never know where that wire will end up (electrocution risk!). There are two good ideas for clearing the blockage. The best way off clearing the tube is with compressed air, often difficult to get in your kitchen, but don't despair, there could be two solutions in your garden shed. If you have a Weed-killer Spray that uses a pump to pressurise the spray pot, you could use that to clear the blockage (with a bit of ingenuity). Clean the spray thoroughly first, you don't want to poison anything in the fridge, and use the spray with no liquid in it. You can take off the spray nozzle and use the pipe in the hole. If you need to manually unblock the tube, you could use a hard nylon "cord" that is used in a garden strimmer. Pocking that down the hole and into the pipe should do the trick. It's flexible enough to get around the corners in the pipe and when it emerges at the other end it won't electrocute you if it touches a live connection. Lastly, having removed the blockage, put a very tiny bit of "plughole unblocker" fluid in the pipe, that will clean out all the other residue not pushed out with the cord. Good Luck!

Posted on May 11, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: F&P Active Smart E521TRE Removing freezer back panel

My fridge (E440T but I believe the E522B is similar) had a broken fan wire and i had to pull off the rear panel and re-solder a wire. I created a document for others to follow that shows the rear panel removal if interested at http://www.accentis.com.au/downloads/misc/How I fixed my Fisher and Paykel Fridge Active Smart Fridge.pdf

Thanks to all postings on this site - it really helped a lot.

Posted on Nov 17, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: F & P Fridge/Freezer Model N395B freezing under vege bins

While staying with a friend that had this problem we assaulted the fridge. Pulling everything we could apart. After finding this link http://www.stokes-aus.com.au/StokesAP/Manufacturer_Info/FP/FRIDGES/517579%20%20Series%20R%20N308R,308XR,325TR,369BR,375TR,395BR,400HR,4.pdf which had a parts list similar to the fridge we had. Pulled out the Defrost timer paragon located next to the compressor. After giving it a good shake it started making ticking sounds again. It appears that it is semi-faulty in our case and had stopped working.

Posted on Oct 30, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: my 5 year old fridge

Don't ask these guys. The problem is that the drain tube is plugged. This is the same issue I had and got no help. Go to the back of your fridge and dissconnect the black tube. That tube is probably plugged. Clean it out and reattach and your good to go. It took me 4 hrs using these guys and this is a 1/2 hr job. Good luck.

Posted on Aug 30, 2010

dcramer531
  • 1654 Answers

SOURCE: We have bottom freezer model

it may be because the hole under the defrost coil is blocked with ice. There is an easy way to eliminate this problem in many refrigerators. Follow these simple steps to stop this problem from happening.

  1. Empty out freezer compartment and open up access to evaporator coils and defrost coil.
  2. Use hair dryer or heat gun to melt any ice that is around coils and in hole to bottom of refrigerator that normally drains the water out of the compartment. Towels or a shop vac may be needed to clean up water as the ice melts.
  3. Blow through hole to make sure that it is free of debris and ice.
  4. Use a piece of bare uninsulated 14 Ga. Copper or Aluminum wire. Place one end of the wire into the hole as far as possible and then cut off enough to wrap a turn or two around the defrost coil.

Now when the freezer goes into it?s defrost cycle a small amount of heat will be transferred by the wire down the hole to make sure that it remains ice free. This will solve your drainage problems with your freezer defrosting and water running into the refrigerator compartment

Posted on Jan 26, 2011

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: Our 12 year old fisher

Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong withyour refrigerator

Refrigeratornot Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

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heatman101

Posted on Mar 20, 2011

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Water leaking into fridge


Unless you have a lot of confidence in your ability as a handy person and plumber, it may be better to leave this to a pro. Here's the story.

When the freezer automatically defrosts, water from the melted ice collects into a tray behind the back panel of the freezer. There is a drain in this tray, and the drain empties into a pvc tube that carries the water down into an evaporation tray that extends from front to back on the bottom right side of the refrigerator. A fan blows air over the evaporation tray to dry the water in the tray before the next defrost cycle.

Over time, the drain tube gets partly clogged with gunk, the water in the upper collection tray doesn't drain completely into the lower tray, and when the defrost cycle ends, the water still in that upper tray freezes. After a few defrost cycles, enough ice forms in the collection tray so it blocks the drain completely, and this plug won't melt during the defrost cycle. Now every time there is a defrost cycle, water collects, overflows, and drips down through the air channel at the back of the fridge into the refrigerator section.

The fix is to clear the drain tube leading from the upper collection tray to the lower evaporation tray. Here's how (if you have the know-how to tackle the job):

First, move the fridge away from the wall, unplug it, and remove the fiberboard panel that runs across the the bottom back. From the front of the fridge pull out the trim grill that runs across the bottom. Locate the evaporator tray on the right, but don't remove it yet.

Empty the freezer, and be sure to safely store the removed items in another freezer, or an insulated cooler, if you can complete the job in an hour or two. Be careful with ice cream and such, which cannolt be allowd to defrost, even partially.

Remove the ice maker if you have one, remove the screws holding down the bottom panel of the freezer, remove it, and remove the screws holding the back panel, and remove it.

Leave the refrigerator door closed, to keep the food in it from spoiling. If this job is going to take you more than an hour or two, move the food in the fridge to another fridge.

Now you need to let the freezer defrost (a hair dryer will make it go faster, but don't let it get wet), and sponge out all the water, There will remain an ice plug in the drain at the bottom of the collection tray at the back. Use hot water to dissolve the ice plug, use a drinking straw inserted into the drain (don't let it drop!) to be sure the ice plug is melted.

You still have to clear the plastic drain tube of collected gunk. This is like snaking out a drain pipe. I found that 8 feet of 1/8 pvc tubing works well. Before you clear the drain tube, remove the lower evporation tray. There is a finger hole at the front. Use it to lift the tray up and forward (be carelful, it may contain water).

Put the pvc "snake" down into the drain in the upper collection tray, and gently work it down through the drain tube. You are done when the snake emerges from the bottom of the drain tube, at the back bottom of the fridge, above where the evaporator tray sits. . Snake up from the bottom, and then back down again from the top, to be sure the drain tube really is clear. Replace the evaporator tray, and slowly pour 2 cups of water into the collection tray at the top, and confirm that it drains quickly and completely into the lower tray.

Empty the lower tray, replace it, and reverse all the disassembly steps.

This is not a permanent fix, because the drain tube could clog again, but should be good for a few years before you have to repeat this operation. At least now you know the cause and the fix, and can deal more effectively with a repair tech, even if you don't tackle the job yourself.

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