Question about Amana ABB1927DE Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

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I have a ARB2205CS that is 6.5 yrs old. It stopped

I have an Amana ARB2205CS that is 6.5 yrs old. It stopped cooling/freezing and the relay clicks on/off every 2.5 min with a 10 sec buzz between clicks. Replaced the overload relay, plugged in unit and it started cooling just fine. A couple hours later it started doing the buzz/click cycle again and the freezer warmed up again. Obviously teh relay was not the problem. Is this a faulty defrost timer that interferes with the cooling cycle once the first defrost cycle is initiated?

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  • bhasell Jun 23, 2009

    could a faulty capacitor (plugged into the relay) also create the buzz click cycle (and no cooling)? I'm currently using a new relay with the original capacitor and have the same symptoms.

  • bhasell Jun 25, 2009

    I was able to get a capacitor shipped in and that fixed the problem. No more click buzz, compressor is warm and freezer temp is dropping rapidly. For future reference, this Amana model relay and capacitor components are sold separately, not as an assembly. There appears to be a shortage of capacitors relative to relays which may suggest it is the more common component failure.
    Thanks for the help.


  • bhasell Jun 25, 2009

    oops, spoke too soon. the compressor started and freezer chilled from +20 C to -10 C in about 50 minutes at which point compressor stopped (normal I assume). I put shelving and a few ice packs in the freezer, lowered the temperature control and it started the click buzz cycle again. After an hour the freezer is back up to +10 C.

    At this point i assume nothing was wrong with original relay or capacitor. Could this be a thermostat problem? Does pulling and reinserting the capacitor cause some sort of reset condition? Witchcraft?


  • bhasell Jun 25, 2009

    I also should mention, as it goes through its click buzz cycle the compressor is hot and the condensor fan runs continuously. I assume the compressor is starting but then gets deactivated for some reason.

  • bhasell Jun 25, 2009

    My new theory (after finding a circuit diagram). A faulty freezer temperature control switch successfully turns on the compressor and fans (which initially cools the freezer) but does not shut down the compressor once the set temperature is reached. The compressor overworks and is shut down by the overload circuit. The temp control switch continues to try and restart the compressor which is quickly shut down by the overload. Fans run, compressor remain hot, freezer stops cooling. Does that make sense?

  • bhasell Jun 26, 2009

    Replaced freezer control and no joy... same symptoms :(
    Did discover new info: if I turn freezer control off, unplug fridge, wait 20 min, plug fridge back in then turn freezer on it does a normal cooling cycle until it gets around -14 C. If I shut down or start in a different sequence (e.g. just unplug, wait then plug in) the click buzz cycle begins immediately (i.e. no cooling). I'm baffled. Thinking of changing the dilithium crystals at this point.


  • bhasell Jun 29, 2009

    All peripherals components (fans, lights, door switches, door seals etc.) are working fine and I can't find any signs of leaks anywhere. Would a loss of gas pressure in the compressor system cause my problem (i.e. cools down once then goes into a click buzz cycle with gradual warming back to room temperature).

  • bhasell Jul 01, 2009

    For those following this thread, the general consensus is that the compressor is in the process of going bad. I had replaced key electronic components (relay, overload,capacitor, freezer control) and have the same symptom -- the compressor will start when it's cold but won't restart after it does one cooling cycle and is hot. I had assumed that the compressor fails or works but a local tech told me today that they can degrade and work sporadically until they completely die. He said replace compressor or get a new fridge, which seem to have 1 year warranties these days (my original Amana warranty was 5 yrs?). Replace compressor $700, new equivalent fridge $1700 -- what to do, what to do?

  • bhasell Jul 03, 2009

    The compressor has been replaced and fridge is running fine. The tech said that the compressors used in the 2002 vintage Amanas (pre-Whirlpool) are not very good (he has replaced many of them). The replacement compressor model is made by Whirlpool and has a very good track record. btw, the new compressor comes with new a relay/overload and capacitor, keep the ones off your old compressor for spare parts.

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Also does it have condencer fan on the comp is this working ?if not comp is over heating it needs that fan

Posted on Jun 26, 2009

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No, the relay was what caused the buzz click but i think a bad compressor could be responsible for blowing the relays out. If you had a bad defrost timer that was stuck in defrost thus compressor not running you would not get the buzz click..your comressor would also be cold.

Posted on Jun 23, 2009

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  • Mike Price
    Mike Price Jun 23, 2009

    According to the manufacturer you should change the whole assembly...if this does not work it's going to be your compressor im afraid.

  • Mike Price
    Mike Price Jun 25, 2009

    I'm glad to have assisted. Yes I knew the the relay and capasitor where sold seperatly as most are with a few exceptions...generally when i am on a service call i will replace both items...



    But hey it's fixed now that's the main thing...Have a good weekend :)

  • Mike Price
    Mike Price Jun 25, 2009

    Yes it does make sence, typically when cold control goes bad it has the effect of making the fridge run non stop. However in 20 years i have never seen a cold control effect the compressor..maybe because i normally get a call strait away.

  • Mike Price
    Mike Price Jun 26, 2009

    Just a clarification...I have never seen a cold control affect the compressor in this way.

  • Mike Price
    Mike Price Jun 29, 2009

    Hi, if after changing the relay,overload and control board you are still getting the buzz click your compressor is bad...In 20 years i have never found it to be any other problem upon replacing the relay and overload.

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Yes your compressor is coming to a stop. There was a 5yr warranty I am sure but if it's 6.5yrs now it's still beyond coverage. I would call some authorized companies familiar with these models who replace the compressors. Not all companies do. Shop around for the best price. I am sure you can do better than $700. I can usually compete that job in 1.5hrs. And the replacement is a great compressor.

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

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So bhasell, I'm unsure from these posts whether you ended up solving your problem. I am having exactly the same one (on a uints that just 3 years old) so I'd be very interested if you've solved it. My repair guy is talking about replacing the compressor, but it still seems to me that it has to do with the electronics that control the compressor (as the latter works sporatically).

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

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