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Hi dear friend , seems your problem is depend to dc controler board which makes hi and low voltages and sends them to other sections like drive motor-display - laser unit - fusing section and other parts in the mashine . If you are a technision so you know well what can you do , if not , just follow power cord and check if there is in put AC voltage ( 220 or 110 volts)on the power supply board ? If you saw the voltage on the diode bridge go a little further on the maun capacitor and check about 300 dc volts on it . If there is not ac and dc volts , you should remove main connection from power supply to dc board then check the voltages that mentioned . Remember that , this is step by step diagnostic finding issue and all of my prefers to you was depend to this point that be careful and if there is nothing voltage even on the panel lights . Good luck
With AC power off.
Use a meter (on Ohms scale) to check internal fuse for blown (open) fuse.
If you feel qualified & safe with AC Power On.
Check input to internal power supply on AC Scale (Caution when AC is on) for volts in.
Use meter on internal Power Supply for "probably" DC volts leaving internal Power Supply electronics to power the rest of the electronic circuits.
Switch mode power supplies can break down. They stop doing their high frequency switching so they don't convert AC to DC.
If this P/Sup is a separate box or circuit board, inside the unit, then it can have a part number & be replaced.
This can be for a variety of reasons. It ranges from something as simple as no supply power (blown fuse, open breaker, faulty contactor, or run capacitor) or it could be more serious as a grounded or open winding in the compressor motor. My suggestion to any novice and or person without proper tools and knowledge; First check the low voltage (24 volt control voltage) by turning on the "Fan on" switch located on the thermostat to on, not "Auto" The blower fan should come on, indicating there's 120 volt and 24 volt available. Fan doesn't come on is an indication that there's no control power. The next step would be to check for power at the transformer and fuse located in the air handler. There should be 240 volts feeding the transformer, and 24 volts coming out. The control voltage is needed to operate the thermostat (which is the switch that sends the 24 volt signal to the compressor contactor to turn the compressor on/off. This 24 volt also powers other relays and switches in the system. knowing that 24 volt is available also tells you that the problem is most likely in the condensing unit (outside, where the compressor is located). At the condensing unit you should check for 240 volt supply power. Upon finding 240 volt supply power the question now becomes whether or not the thermostat is calling for anything (cool or heat if the unit is a heat pump). There should be 24-30 volt available at the small gauge wires feeding the contactor coil. While having the thermostat set at a temperature lower than the current room temperature (in the cooling mode) the thermostat should send a 24 volt signal to close the compressor contactor and turn it on. The non-metallic end of a screwdriver can be used to depress the moveable part of the contactor. After pushing in the contactor, should the compressor start then you may only need a new contactor. It may just hum because of a faulty run capacitor or grounded or shorted internal motor windings (grounded or shorted windings are usually indicated by tripped circuit breaker and/or blown fuse). It's a good idea to have a good multi-meter and knowledge of use before attempting any repairs or diagnosis on your own. I recommend some basic knowledge of electricity before even thinking about attempting any repairs or diagnosis.
Need to check the low voltage circuit for 24 volts, the 480 volt to 24 volt transformer may have a circuit protection reset or fuse installed. All the 3 phase electric heaters use a low voltage control circuit for operation of relays (24 volt coils).
This can be complicated. You must have, on most power chairs, at least 22 volts DC to turn and 24 to 26 volts to drive. Check voltage to power module and joystick. Check fuses in battery wiring harness.
Hi, you should not have to, the motor spec is max current draw, maybe when stalled, the supply is a theoretical maximum so you will be fine, in case of faults a breaker or fuse rated at 35 amps would be good.
· Scanner home position sensor failure · Defective scanner motor · Defective main board · Defective dc power supply board · Incorrect scanner drive wire position · FU202 on the dc power supply board open (blown fuse). - Action - Turn the main switch off and on. Check the position of the 1st scanner sensor actuator. Actuated De-actuated Does the scanner motor rotate when the main switch is turned on? No Yes Correct the scanner drive wire position. Check the voltage at CN106-2 on the main board. 24 volts 0 volts Check FU202 on the dc power supply board. Good No Good Replace FU202 Replace the dc power supply board. Check the voltage at CN105-1 and 6 on the main board. 24 volts 0 volts Replace the main board.