Question about Garden
Will not start at all.....changed oilnspark plug and filter.....also tryed cleaning liquid in spot where filter is...
Did you drain all you gas out before winterize.
Posted on May 10, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: My lawn mower doesn't start
Hi Every 2 stoke engine needs three things to run:Fuel+oil/air mixture in correct proportions,compression and ignition.Remove the sparkplug and see if the spark appears when the piston in the cilinder is at top death point(almoust),if not check the flyweel key(not to be sheared).Check engine"s sealing(crankcase gasket,cilinder gasket,seals-crankshaft,carb gasket).Also the mufller(not to be clogged),disassembly the carb (check and clean it),fuel lines and fuel filter (check and clean them),gas cap tank vent(not to be clogged),the air filter.Please let me know. best regards savumihai71
Posted on Dec 22, 2008
I always replace the air filter if its a paper element, and even if its a foam element I replace it rather than clean it. That said, engine stumbling is rarely and air flow problem - but it could be, so having a new filter assures no air restrictions.
I would drop the carbuerator bowl. On the bottom of the carb, near where the fuel line comes into the engine, should be a nut. Removing this nut allows the bowl to drop off the carb. Some engines the bowl screws off, you will have to look at the bowl. Often the bowl has sediment or sludge buildup inside. Cleaning the bottom of the bowl can prevent that sludge/sediment from plugging the intake tube. Even on newer mower models this is a common problem, the gas line tubing interior breaks down and the inside of the tubing can start degrading - ending up in the bowl as sludge.
After cleaning the bowl, I would add one ounce of fuel line cleaner to a full tank of fuel and run the entire tank of fuel. This will clean any deposits or "varnish" from the interior carb parts. Doing this and the first step will assure your carb is clean and functioning.
If that doesn't help, then I would look at the spacing between the magneto and coil assembly. If you want to do that I'd like you to write down all the model numbers and serial numbers on the engine nameplate, that way I can give you specific directions.
Hope this helps,
Posted on Mar 29, 2009
I am working on one now. Customer said "it doesn't run". Ok. So, after oil/spark plug/air filter replacement...it didn't have any gas getting to the carb. Took off the bowl, and on this 2005 lawnmower, the inside of ALL of the carb was covered with a white/chalky film. Looked like tiny rust barnacles over ANY metal surface available. Silty white stuff in bowl. Blasted it all w/carb cleaner. Still couldn't get primer to work, but after I sprayed a bit o' starter in the cylinder, it started well & kept running. Until I let the bar down. Needs a new carb. Will see what the customer wants.
Posted on Jun 04, 2010
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your carburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Also check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Also make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the mower/weedeater is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
Sounds like you will need to clean the carburetor or replace your carburetor internal rubber parts like the diaphgram and O rings.
I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use compressed air to blow out all the fuel and air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their orginal position before you started.
Once you have your carburetor rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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Posted on Jun 19, 2011
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