Question about Daewoo FR062R Compact Refrigerator

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Freezer section is iceing up

MY Refrigerator is not working well. The freezer section is iceing up, the Bimetal Defrost Thermostat is bad. I need to get that change, but I dont have the Part No. so I cant get one. I would be grateful if you could tell me the part No. so I could purchase one.
The make and model of the Refrigerator is DAEWOO FR3801

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  • Mike Price
    Mike Price May 11, 2010

    that model number is coming back as bad, normally there is a sticker inside the refridge stating the model number

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  • 79 Answers

There are 3 things that will cause a defrost free refrigerator to do this, the defrost timer, the defrost heater, or the defrost termination sensor. I would start with the timer. You will need to look the cabinet over closely. Look inside by the cold control, you are looking for a hole with a plastic screw that can only be turned one way with a flat blade screw driver, if not there look in the back, once found turn it till the compressor shuts down, if you find the drip tray full of water, you know the other two items are good, and replace the defrost timer

Posted on Jun 23, 2009

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2 Answers

Freezer working fine. Have water dripping into fridge and can't get temperature below 50 degrees.


Hi,

Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working okay . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrigerator side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrigerator and inside the refrigerator section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and forward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrigerator's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Using a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly through the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrigerator back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrigerator and reinstall the refrigerator control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired together . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .

Hoping this will help in solving the problem....

Jul 03, 2011 | GE Profile Stainless Bottom-Freezer...

1 Answer

How do i get unit to go in deforst


The refrigerator/freezer defrost system can be checked by manually initiating a defrost cycle. There
are two methods of initiating the ADC Test Mode.
First Test Method:
1. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
3. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
4. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
5. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
6. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
7. Turn the thermostat off.
In 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal closed). NOTE: The test mode will terminate when the bimetal opens. If the refrigerator/freezer is already in defrost, Test Mode can be terminated by unplugging the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet and waiting 30 seconds before plugging it back in. The refrigerator/freezer should immediately go into cooling mode if the thermostat is closed.
If this first test procedure fails to make the ADC initiate a defrost cycle, try the following procedure to make the ADC begin the Test Mode.
Second Test Method:
1. Disconnect the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet for at least 30 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat off.
3. Reconnect power to the refrigerator/freezer.
Within 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal close). If the unit fails to go into the defrost mode during this test, the problem may not be with the ADC. A defective bimetal may be the cause of the failure. The ADC will only go into a test mode if the bimetal
is closed. If the ADC senses an open bimetal it will return to the cooling mode within 3 to 8 seconds.
HELPFUL HINT: Upon entering the Test Mode, the relay mounted on the ADC board should turn off the compressor and turn on the defrost heater. Listen for the relay to click.
• If the relay clicks one time when entering the Test Mode, check for continuity in the defrost heater.
• If the relay clicks two times, check for an open bimetal.

Nov 26, 2010 | Whirlpool 25.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...

1 Answer

Freezer not freezing though refrigerator appears to be working fine. There is a thin layer of ice on freezer floor.


Hello,
Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working okay . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrigerator side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrigerator and inside the refrigerator section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and forward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 Phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrigerant , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Using a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly through the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrigerator back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrigerator and reinstall the refrigerator control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired together . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function . ..

Hope this helpout in solving the problem.....

Oct 09, 2010 | Maytag MTB1891AR Top Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

Whirlpool refrigerator and freezer problem. a cup was place in the refrigerator to catch the percipitation coming from an inlet from the freezer. Which they are two inlets located in the center back of the...


It sounds as though you have frost or ice buld up under the panel in freezer compartment.Remove the 4 screws in freezer and 1 green ground wire.Inside you may see ice or frost buld up.Some causes are-Your drain tube may have a obstruction in it.It is located on center rear of freezer compartment.And if you pull fridge out and remove bottom rear panel you will see a plastic tube going into a drip pan.Pour hot water in the freezer and use hair dryer to defrost till water drians to bottom rear of the fridge.After you defrost the freezer cheak the bimetal defrost thermostat cliped on condensor see if it is balged on top where the wires go into thermostat.If it is you will need a bimetal defrost thermostat for it.If not cheak your defrost timer in can be locted around the temp control in fridge or under kickplate on bootom front of fridge.Advance the timer with a flat head srew driver look close it there will be a hole around light or control panel turn till fridge turns off.the element should turn on >if those @ things do not work you may need a thermostat control If you have electronil controls you may need a new board

Mar 17, 2010 | Whirlpool 21.0 cu. ft. Top Freezer...

1 Answer

The bottom dont cool


check for ice on the back of wall in freezer section. check to make sure fan motor in freezer turning, if ice on wall you have a defrost problem. bad defrost control or bimetal which is located in freezer section. Check with a ohms meter. should get ohms areading if closed when cold. Last would be a bad defrost heater but rare. Also make sure air returns not block with ice. If so , could be a stop up defrost drain.

Mar 05, 2010 | Kenmore 20.6 cu. ft. Top Freezer...

1 Answer

Appears to go into an extended defrost cycle.


Sounds like your freezer has a bad defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) or bad #4 and/or #5 thermistor . This bimetal , has a high temp rating of 140 degrees , which means , when it gets to 140 behind the panel , it will cut off the defrost heater , to keep ice and food from thawing . The thermistors , tell the main control board the temps , and it decides when to restart the cooling process . I would check the thermistors by the digital controls , in the test mode , or have a technician check them for you .

Sep 12, 2009 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

Refrigerator gets warm inside about once a month because the coils inside the freezer section get covered in thick ice and has to be defrosted .


Your defrost cycle is not working right. If you have a mechanical defrost timer then replace that and the defrost bimetal in the freezer. They are both cheap. If your refrig has a control board then you have to replace that instead, because that is what controls the defrost in an electronic defrost. Either way always replace the bimetal thermostat in the freezer. It is cheap insurance

Sep 08, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Freezer works, refrigerator doesn't, motor is making an odd noise


frost free refrigerators consists of -
1)Heater
2)Thermostat(bimetal)
3)timer

heater and bimetal are in freezer section. First check heater. Give it direct power supply. If it heats up,its OK. Then check bimetal. Immerse it in Ice. check continuity using a continuity tester. If its showing continuity its OK too.

change timer if both heater and bimetal are OK.

Aug 08, 2009 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

GE GBS22MBPABB Refrigerator not working, bottom freezer is good


check to see if the evaporator fan motor is running it blows the cold air from the freezer to fridge section. check the back freezer wall if it is iced or frosted over, you will need to check the defrost componets bimetal, heater element and timer. element and bimetal behind back freezer wall. you can check with a meter set on resistance, with unit unplugged. if the bimetal is covered in ice you should read resistance. resistance should be read on element all the time. hope this helps id start with the bimetal

Mar 18, 2009 | GE GBS22HBP Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

2 Answers

Refrigerator side not cooling - freezer side icing up


It sounds like your defrost system has failed. There is a timing device that turns on the defrost heater(s) which may have stopped working. Or the heaters or defrost thermostat could be bad.

My suggestion is to find a different repair person who is qualified.

May 30, 2008 | KitchenAid Superba Architect KSCS25INSS...

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