Question about Fisher and Paykel Dishwashers
Not sure if you have fixed the F2 problem yet. The rotor cavity may look clean but sometimes there is a piece of bone or seed stuck inside the channel connecting rotor cavity with pump sump. Take the rotor out and the drain filter out. Take a rigid thin wire and run it inside the channel connecting the two.
Also get some white vinegar and with a tooth brush rub it inside the rotor cavity to ensure all dirt is removed. The rotor speed sensing is done by the hall sensor sitting underneath the cavity. It is not visible from top. The sensor could be reading incorrectly. IF still no luck then Run in diagnostic mode - (but make sure you do not try any other function than what is mentioned here otherwise you could damage dishwasher).
DishDrawer Diagnostics can
only be entered in Power Off mode, ie. When there is no display on the LCD or the
badge LED's are off. Diagnostics is entered by holding the
Keylock and Start/Pause buttons simultaneously for 5
seconds. Ensure that
Keylock is pushed first.
All LED's and LCD segments (except keylock) are illuminated. Press Power button and display shows HO in red background. Press Start/ Pause. You are now in hardware diagnostic mode. Open drawer so that you can see inside. Press Start/ Pause a few times until FU shows on display. At this point press Keylock and water should flow in. Press Keylock to turn inlet valve off after water is collected under the wash arm (don't cover wash arm). Press Start/ Pause again and P1 will display. Press Keylock to turn rotor motor on and water will swish around. Press Keylock to turn motor off within a few seconds otherwise flooding could occur. Next press Start/ Pause once so P2 displays. Press Keylock to run rotor again but this time it will pump out. Let it run until the water is pumped out. Press Keylock to stop pump. This should test the rotor in both forward and reverse direction.
PRESS POWER BUTTON ANYTIME TO EXIT DIAGNOSTIC
If the hardware test worked ok then turn mains power to dishwasher off and on and start normal wash cycle. If there is still an F2 problem then hall sensor is faulty and needs replacement. Not easy to do and best left to technicians. By the way each dishdrawer has separate controller - so one drawer could be working fine and the other not.
Posted on May 24, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hi there, If you have had an F1 you need to dry out the product in order to reset the flood switch. This is a simple process as follows: 1. Ensure product is disconnect from wall so that it has no power. 2. Open the bottom drawer and put your hand in through the gap where the bottom of the bottom drawer comes out and feel the base of the cabinet that houses the drawers for water. 3. If there is water present dry it out as much as you can with paper towels or old rags. This machine is designed to drain all water to the front of the base of the cabinet away from the flood switch that sits at the back left corner of the cabinet base that the drawers are fitted into. 4. When you have base of the cabinet dry you need to ensure that the switch has not moisture on it in order for it to reset and allow you to start using the product. This can be done 2 ways: 1. leave bottom drawer open for 24-48 hours to allow natural air circulation to dry out the connection. or 2. position a hair dryer to blow air into the back left corner of the base of the cabinet and dry it out quicker. This still make take up to 6 hours as the flood switch had a protective cover over it to try to prevent F1's for small spills. 5. When the product had been dried out, important that you make sure it has, when you switch on the machine the F1 should be gone and ready to use. Please run each drawer seperately on a rinse cycle to confirm to yourself that it flooding was possibly caused by something blocking the sprayarm, or something stacked too high or something got stuck in the pump temporarily stopping it from draining effectively or the product suddsing too much from spilt rinse aide in one of the drawers. If each drawer runs successfully you should be in the all clear to start using it again. Please note though: if something blocks the spray arm that is directly linked to the pump your drawer will flood as a result. If you have something stuck in the pump peventing it from draining effectively ie a toothpick or piece of broken crockery this will cause your product to flood, but you will hear an louder than normal sound when the pump is running. And finally if you spill rinse aide in your drawer when filling it clean all spilt rinse aide to prevent unit from over sudsing when running. Regards KAR-Ltd
Posted on Aug 09, 2007
SOURCE: dish drawer leaks Fisher Paykel
When water accumulates in the bottom it triggers an error code and it keeps running. There is a water sensor in the bottom. I pull out the bottom drawer, mop up the water and use a hair dryer to dry the water (the more you mop up the less you need the hair dryer). Be careful to not get any of the plastic too hot. Kill the power before messing with the unit. The first time I did this it took 20 minutes to dry out. I have gotten more proficient and it take about 5 minutes now.
I had a water leak which was due to the rinse agent cap not being completely sealed. Water leaked out of a small hole in the front (I'm guessing an air vent but don't know for sure) and flooded the bottom.
I also had a leak due to having too tall a dish in the drawer and the top not sealing. I currently have a leak on the top drawer of unknown origin, but the bottom drawer still works.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Jul 10, 2008
SOURCE: FISHER & PAYKEL DD-603
I have a DD603 bought used, put in the upgrade kit. But now it goes into pause several times during a load. It happens on both drawers very very anoying.
Posted on Mar 30, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
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F2 error is displayed when control won't sense motor to be
rotating, usually occurs due to frozen/bad motor or stuck motor rotor or the
RPS sensor or a bad stator assembly. If the motor rotor spins freely and both
impellers are securely attached then the issue is with the RPS sensor. If the
motor won't rotate then it is the motor rotor that has to be replaced. Hope
this helps...please post back for further assistance.
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