Question about LG WM-2277HW Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Why is there black dust (carbon?) on and around the electric motor? Is this a problem?

Having removed the motor to replace the drum bearings and inner drum I notice there is quite a bit of black dust on and around the electric motor and was wondering if this is a normal sign of wear and tear or means the motor is nearing the end of its life. Prior to taking apart the washing machine the motor itself seemed to be working fine. The machine could be around ten years old. Thanks

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  • Molly
    Molly May 10, 2014

    The website has changed the model it is actually a LG intellowasher WD-8013F, though the question is probably relevant to any electric motor

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  • LG Master
  • 15,639 Answers

That is most likely from the belt on the drum. If you want to check that though take some of the dust and see if it is gritty feeling. you can check that by putting it on something smooth and setting something hard on top of it and moving the top object around. Or pinch it between fingers etc. The motor should be brushless because it is an AC motor.

Posted on May 10, 2014

Testimonial: "Thanks Brad. It was dust from the belt. I cleaned as much as I could from in and around the motor. It all seems to be working fine now."

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: LG TROMM WM 2077CW LE Error

An LE error is a locked rotor. The hall sensor on the stator part of the motor is not sensing the rotor part of the motor is turning. So the short version is you need a new stator(which has the sensor on it or just the sensor) replaced which should have a 5 year warranty on it so call LG for your nearest authorized service center

Posted on Dec 05, 2007

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: LG Tromm Washer

What is the mater with us that we are accepting this outrageous product flaw?

Let's put the blame exactly where it belongs and keep it there until manufacturers clean up their act!

What in the world are we thinking when we allow ourselves to be forced to jump through these ridiculous hoops just do do laundry!?

I am furious and it is over something as stupid as a washing machine! A WASHING MACHINE!!!!

New government regulations for new water efficiency washing machines has my family’s clothing smelling like a stinking, rancid, moldy basement! This is absolutely absurd! I have been told to change laundry detergent, run hot bleach water through my washer and, get this; my washing machine is 1 year old and my clothes smell filthy!!! The mold and mildew from these nasty machines have wreaked havoc through skin rashes and allergies in my children!

I paid $1,000.000 for this da*ned washing machine and THIS is what is being sold to the public under the disguise of efficiency!!?? I have been on the phone about this problem. I have, over the past 3 months, with a technician on the phone, been instructed to do the following:

*Make sure I use high efficiency detergent THAT will fix my problem.
Wrong.
*Cleaned the lint trap (..that is stupidly behind a metal access plate that you have to use a screwdriver to remove screws to get to it EVERY TIME) and THAT will fix my problem.
Wrong!
*Cleaned the water hoses; THAT will fix my problem.
Wrong!
*Cleaned the gasket around the door. THAT will fix my problem
Wrong!
*Cleaned the tub with bleach water. THAT will fix my problem.
WRONG!
*REMOVED the hoses and cleaned the pump. THAT will fix my problem.
WRONG AGAIN!
*Take the pump out entirely and clean all inlet, outlets and hoses. THAT will fix my problem.
WRONG! WRONG!! WRONG!!!

NONE of this fixed my problem of filthy, wet, stinking, rancid clothing that has endangered my family's health! I even washed my children's clothing out by hand in the bathtub and put them in the washer just to rinse and spin and they STILL smelled horrific.

Finally, at the end of my rope, I returned to the appliance store from which I purchased this machine and they have told me that they cannot accept a return. They will not accept a return and I have to deal directly with GE. I HAVE dealt with GE up until the final straw when I they told me I needed a new pump, but so sorry, your warranty JUST expired 3 days ago!!!

Furthermore, my pump was fine. I did NOT need a new pump and have now been told that I cannot return the new, unused pump that cost me another $183.00. I have now been told that this is a problem with ALL front loading washing machines and I should do the following:

*First, run a full complete wash cycle on hottest setting containing Bleach – * Note: wash cycle takes 1 hour and 20 minutes
*Next, run a full wash cycle on hottest setting using high efficiency laundry detergent for another 1 hour and 20 minutes
*Next, run a full wash cycle on hottest setting using Cascade automatic dish washing detergent for an ADDITIONAL 1 hour and 20 minutes
*Next, using Bleach water, wipe down entire interior of washing machine
*Next, using clean white cloth, wipe entire interior of washing machine dry
*Next, leave door ajar to air out machine

*Finally, I have now been informed that I cannot use fabric softener in the machine even though there is a fabric softener dispenser right in the machine because the new front loading machines cannot handle fabric softener!!

Furthermore, I was told that this is new technology and since it is so new, no one really knew these kinds of problems were going to manifest themselves and I just need to try to work with these problems because it is not the manufacturers fault but the GOVERNMENT’S fault! Sorry.

Are you kidding me??

Now I have a $1000.00 piece of junk that the appliance companies are pawning off on unsuspecting consumers and hiding their horrible designs by blaming the government.

So, now this is what I want!

I want the legislature to force manufacturers to properly inform the public of these problems and those who did NOT inform consumers of these issues, COMPENSATE their customers for the $$$$$ it has cost us and the misery and frustration caused by THEIR neglect by NOT informing the consumers of these issues. I want this to be retroactive BACK to at least the year 2005. Furthermore, I want compensated for the cost of buying a top loading washing machine in an effort to keep our families away from the mold and mildew and filthy mess this has caused! Finally, I want manufacturers to own up to the fact that they disregarded the health and safety of consumers in their efforts to profit as much as possible while touting efficiency.

Now I have heard that they have a new 'product' they can sell to us to inhibit the stench of mold and mildew. This is absolutely unacceptable!

This is outrageous and we need to speak out about this and make sure our voices are heard!

Posted on Dec 12, 2007

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: When to know if the motor is going out ?

This fix below completely fixed my LG front loader issue of the drum "freezing" and "studdering" on fill and a lot of times giving a LE (motor overload) error. Bought position sensor as described and doing a load right now!

Wolfster you are awesome...you saved me probably $200.

Definitely sounds like the position sensor is faulty. I had this happen to my WM2277HB recently. Motor would start to turn, then jerk, hum, and not move, eventually gives LE code. Powering down, all the other tips had no effect. Very unlikely that the motor itself is bad if it still turns freely. You could confirm the stator wiring is OK by unplugging it and taking resistance readings across the stator terminals of the 3-pin connector (any combo of two should be 7-15 ohms). I was able to order the part from an online electronics supplier (www.mcminone.com, P/N 6501KW2002A, description is "sensor assembly") and several other places may have it as well. You can download a basic but somewhat helpful service manual here http://136.166.4.200/contents/Laundry/WM2277.htm that has some disassembly instructions and exploded view diagrams, explains the troubleshooting mode. Don't even bother calling LG or a service tech unless it's under warranty. If you're here you probably have some basic repair skills and tools4.gif and can easily replace it yourself for about $20. My washer was about a year and a half old when the sensor went out, now it runs great again.

Posted on Dec 18, 2007

SOURCE: suspect drum bearings

LG Direct Drive bearing replacement The following guide is written to help you assess if replacing the bearings is a job you can undertake and complete. This is not written to be specific to any particular direct drive model but it will help in all cases.
Must do's Before commencing work on an electrical appliance:
1) Unplug the appliance from the wall socket, ensure the appliance on/off switch is in the off position.
2) Turn off the inlet water at the isolation valves and disconnect the inlet hoses from the appliance.
3) Clear a space and plan where you are going to put items you remove from the appliance.
4) Have pen and paper handy for making notes, a digital camera is ideal for taking a picture of wiring connections for future reference (**PHOTO**)
Strip down 1) Remove the worktop by undoing 2 screws at the rear, slide backwards and lift off.
2) FROM THE BACK.....Remove the back panel (4 screws) giving access to the rear of the tub unit. Disconnect the wiring to the motor, thermostat and heater, disconnect earth wires, (**PHOTO**). The drum pulley, which is the ROTOR of the direct drive system has a single bolt to undo. Slacken this bolt a turn or two, DO not remove completely. Gently tap the bolt with a soft faced hammer or drift, this will assist in the removal of the Rotor. Remove the bolt and remove the rotor, careful as it has a series of magnets around its inner circumference. The stator of the direct drive system is now in front of you, there are 6 bolts holding it in place. Remove these and very carefully remove the stator without damaging it, its very expensive, look after it. Depending on your model there could be a spacer between the stator and the tub unit, if so remove this also.
3) FROM THE FRONT.....Open the filter door (left side of kick plate) if there is a small drain hose, remove stopper and drain off any water in there. There is 1 screw to remove which is at the side of the filter, then slide the kick plate sideways should release the plinth from the cabinet. Open the door, the seal clamp band that secures the door gasket to the cabinet should be removed. If the door seal has a further hose attached, remove it.
4) Read all of this paragraph, there are 2 versions.....Remove 3 screws holding the lower edge of the front panel to the cabinet. Remove the soap drawer, remove 2 screws in the control panel that secure the soap box, depending on model there could be a third in the lower right hand corner, if there is, remove it. If there isn't read on further.. Carefully slide the front panel downwards about 20mm and it will disengage from the cabinet, carefully look behind it and disconnect the door lock wiring to allow complete removal. If there was not a third screw (lower right hand corner of the control panel) then the control panel will have to be removed. From the top remove the clip retaining the hose that goes into the top of the tub unit, remove the clip holding the large hose on the left, slide the soap box backwards slightly and hang over the back of the cabinet, all the hoses still connected. To remove the control panel look under the top frame and release the two lugs whilst easing the panel away from the cabinet. disconnect the wiring and remove away completely.
5) From the bottom remove the sump hose from the tub, the screw that secures the pressure bottle to the tub. Remove the suspension pins from the top position of the legs and push the legs clear of the tub unit. The tub unit will now be hanging from the top springs. Using strong wire or rope, loop the hook of the spring, lift clear of the cabinet and lower the tub unit to the floor. Repeat this on the other spring which then allows the tub unit to be lifted through the front of the cabinet.
6) Place the tub unit door seal up, remove the screws that secure tub front 1/2 to the rear 1/2. This allows the inner drum to be removed, if its tight use soft faced hammer, DO NOT damage the drum shaft.
Inspect the drum shaft collar, the collar is located at the base of the shaft and is the surface that the oil seal mates to. Look for indents or circular ruts where the previous seal has worn the collar away
6a70_2.jpg if damaged you will need a new spider unit. Do not clean up using abrasive cloth, try the green pan scrubber from the kitchen instead. If damaged and you don't replace it the bearing replacement will fail prematurely as the oil seal fails to keep the wash water away.
There are several different kits, comprising of 2 bearings and 1 oil seal. To obtain the correct kit you will need the model number of your appliance, eg WM1480FHD or WM1485FHD or WM16225FD
all use bearing kit 1 available here other kits are available for other models including belt drives and washer dryers
The bearings can now be removed, the seats cleaned and made ready for the new bearings and water seal. A light cover of grease can be smeared on the inner edge of the seal.
7) There is a tub seal which fits in the recess between the front and rear 1/2's of the tub unit, it is adviseable to renew that seal before rebuild is commenced.
8) Rebuild is a reversal of the above, at every step double check electrical and hose connections and before you refit the cabinet front.
Hope you find this guide useful, some paragraphs can be applied to the belt drives also.

Posted on Oct 04, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: LG WM1814CW - Water/soap Leaking Under Washing Machine onto Floor

Here is the answer !!! My LG front loader has leaked once a year for the past 4 years. The rubber bellows (a part underneath the washer) cracks and causes the leak. DO NOT LET THEM TELL YOU THAT YOU ARE USING TOO MUCH DETERGENT ... THAT JUST AN EXCUSE !!! The part costs around $12. Here's the link ...

http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SmartSearch.aspx?R=1514&searchText=LG%20Washer

Posted on Oct 06, 2008

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1 Answer

How to replace the motor on indesit idc75uk tumble dryer


Black Carbon is Not Good! This could be related to the Brushes on the motor and unless you are good at repairing a motor; I would advise getting a replacement. Write down the Make, Mod. and other details from the Motor label and look on line for a low cost replacement. To open the Dryer, just unscrew the back panel and look for the motor housing. In some cases, you may have to remove the Drum, pulley and/or drive belt. Be careful because the Metal Is Sharp and it can Cut your hands or Arms. The motor when exposed can be removed from the dryer housing by removing the screws/bolts and attached wire connections. Remember the order in witch you took it apart because that is way you put it back together. Remember the exact attachment of the electric wires prior to pulling them off of the motor (Red and Black/or White wires). These wires Must be reattached the exact way they were affixed at the factory. When done, replace the back panel and your done. I do hope you DISCONNECTED the Power Plug "FIRST"...Dah?

Dec 18, 2013 | Indesit Dryers

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I have a Zanussi ZWX1506W washing machine and have a problem used it yesterday and after about 10mins i could smell a burning smell so turned it off and unloaded it/ drained it etc left it go an hour or so...


There is a tiny possibility that the motor has seized. To test this possibility, remove the top of the machine and take the drive belt off. If the drum now spins easily but you can't turn the motor spindle by hand then the motor has siezed, if the drum is still stiff but you can turn the spindle of the motor by hand then the drum is siezed. A replacenemt motor will probably set you back around £100 ($170) this may make the machine a write off. Worst still, and I'm sorry to say, far more likely is that the main bearings in the drum have broken down and siezed. The smell is from the motor buring out as it tries, and fails to turn the siezed drum (or siezed motor bearings).

Under normal circumstances, to test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed. Having said this, if your bearings have siezed, there may be no play in the drum because they are jammed solid.


If the bearings have siezed, then other symptoms that have been leading up to the failure will typically include:

A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum), but as I say, with siezed bearings, this may not be the case.

You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.

When you turn the stiff drum by hand, it may not only be stiff, but you may be aware of a grinding crunching noise that you can also feel transmitting through the drum as you turn it at the same time (the broken bearing catching up on smashed bits as you turn the drum)


A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.

If it is the main bearing (and I can't imagine any other cause other than the motor its self seizing) then this is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about £20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I

Aug 30, 2011 | Zanussi Washing Machines

1 Answer

How to replace rear wheel bearings


If it has drum brakes, you'll need to take off the center dust cap, remove the cotter pin, remove the nut and washer holding the drum on. The outer bearing should fall out, the inner bearing usually stays in the drum, due to the grease seal. With the front bearing and washer off, put the drum back on and install the nut, then pull the drum, allowing to the nut to catch the inner bearing as you pull off the drum, and that should leave the inner bearing and seal on the spindle. Pack the new bearings with grease, install the inner one in the drum and tap in the grease seal in place, but the drum back on and install the outer bearing on the spindle, the wash, nut, cotter pin and dust cover. Tighten the nut snug and turn the drum a few times and snug up the nut. Don't overtighten it.

Apr 29, 2010 | 1991 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

Drum banging is it bearing when on spin


Hi,
This is difficult to work out as there are so many different symptoms. Here are my thoughts -

Dust from carbon rushes is black. Grey dust usually comes from a loose concrete weight. Loose tub weights are rare on this model but they cause a loud knocking noise which is often worse when the washing machine is revving up to spin and dying down from a spin (suspension problems are also often worse at this safe too). It's not normally a metallic sound though.

If the noise is coming from the motor banging against the sides of the machine then it will make the machine move when it happens. The whole machine may jump or move to one side. The motor often thumps the side of the washing machine on Hotpoint washers where the motor is fitted at the top of the tub and over to the right hand side. This is a daft place to fit a motor and only .I think they've eventually stopped now though.

It is normal to be able to push the drum to the side so that the motor hits the casing. If the suspension has gone, the tub should be twisted and leaning to one side more than the other or it just could be very loose. It's difficult to check suspension if you don't know how it should feel.

If the noise is coming from the inner drum hitting the heating element or throwing an object like a £1 coin (trapped between the inner drum and the outer tub) around, then the washing machine will be stable but the noise would still be a horrible metallic knocking. This is one cause I suspect.

Thank you for contacting Fixya.com

Aug 29, 2009 | Zanussi FLA1001W Front Load Washer

1 Answer

During the spin cycle, it sounds like a helicopter. So noisy that you have to leave the room and close the laundry room door.


Hi,
This is difficult to work out as there are so many different symptoms. Here are my thoughts -

Dust from carbon rushes is black. Grey dust usually comes from a loose concrete weight. Loose tub weights are rare on this model but they cause a loud knocking noise which is often worse when the washing machine is revving up to spin and dying down from a spin (suspension problems are also often worse at this stage too). It's not normally a metallic sound though.

If the noise is coming from the motor banging against the sides of the machine then it will make the machine move when it happens. The whole machine may jump or move to one side. The motor often thumps the side of the washing machine on Hotpoint washers where the motor is fitted at the top of the tub and over to the right hand side. This is a daft place to fit a motor and only Hotpoint / Credo did it. I think they've eventually stopped now though.

It is normal to be able to push the drum to the side so that the motor hits the casing. If the suspension has gone, the tub should be twisted and leaning to one side more than the other or it just could be very loose. It's difficult to check suspension if you don't know how it should feel.

If the noise is coming from the inner drum hitting the heating element or throwing an object like a £1 coin (trapped between the inner drum and the outer tub) around, then the washing machine will be stable but the noise would still be a horrible metallic knocking. This is one because I suspect.

If the carbon brush is charred (as in these Hotpoint & Credo carbon brush pictures) then it's definitely faulty and needs replacing. This could cause the machine to bang about violently on spin but it normally wouldn't.

As for the clothes being covered in black marks. (Washing (laundry) is still dirty or has marks on it (marks on clothes) ). This sounds potentially ominous as it could be that the inner drum is catching on the inside of the outer tub which is often covered in gunge. As clothes are pushed through the holes in the drum on spin, this could cause them to scrape on the inner tub and pick up greasy marks. Check for play in the drum by lifting it up and down from the front. It should only lift up a mm or so. Then turn the drum so that one of the drum paddles is at the bottom. Pull the drum toward you at the point of the drum paddle. It shouldn't have any play in it. Turn the drum round and test the other two as well. If the drum spider and shaft has a crack in it then one or more of the arms will allow excess play when you pull the drum at the paddle points.

Carbon dust from a motor could never get onto clothes.

Thank You for using Fixya.com

Aug 13, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MAH5500B Front Load Washer

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Ge fornt load washer mod #wcvh6260fww the inner drum chatters violently in hi rpm spin-- not to be confused by the entire unit shaking-- the inner drum only


I'm having a similar problem. Mine sounds like there is something behind the drum, like maybe a coin or loose nut? It screeches horribly.

Jul 30, 2009 | GE WSXH208A Front Load Washer

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Have WD63 WASHER/DRYER & the drum stopped turning. motor ok & drum turns easily when turned manually.


Could be the carbon brushes on the motor. They're usually quite cheap and easy to replace. In this area you can expect to see a lot of carbon dust (black). The brushes themselves should protrude from the case by around 4-6mm.

Could also be a loose connection between the power feed and the motor.
Will it pump? Some machines die completely when the pump fails.

Jul 18, 2009 | Hotpoint Aquarius WMA42 Front Load Washer

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My dryer catches a piece of clothes in the drum edge and has ruined quite a few clothes, leaving them with black-brown marks. When I look at the drum seating using a mirror I can see that it's not...


Hello Friend, This problem is real common in GE dryers. Your solution is simple. You need to replace the front drum bearing and glider pads. It's actually pretty simple to do. Just remove front of dryer cabinet. After removal just look at backside of dryer front around the inner door. You will see where the dryer drum has turned and wore a hole in the plastic piece above the dryer door. This piece is called the front drum bearing. Just unsnap this piece and snap in a new one. Be sure to replace the little plastic glide pads onto the top of the drum bearing before re-installing the dryer cabinet front. The front drum bearing and glider pads are sold seperately so make sure you have everything you need before you begin. This should solve your problem. Happy to help, Tim. Thanks.

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Drum Does not Rotate


the carbon dust that you mention ? on the drivebelt will//may have come from the electric motor carbon brushes especially as you sy machine is 4 yrs old you can diy inspect the brushes by removing the rear panel to access motor unplug the socket from motor then slacken belt and remove belt from pully remove the motor you will see location f brushes x2 opposit each other and normally held in position ont armature of motor by coiled pressure clip like watch spring and brush has wire embedded in it and other end a push on terminal? when these brushes wear down normally the fist indication is fast spin slows then eventually no rotation of drum? over a period of time? SO easy diy to renew brushes if as above worne down /not contacting armature? cost approx £5 here in n/west uk worth investigating and diy saving ££££s $$$$s? and i hope you have good luck hope this helps/inspires you?

Oct 26, 2008 | Hotpoint Aquarius WMA56 Front Load Washer

2 Answers

Replace drum bearing


To complete this repair correctly and to prevent problem re occuring within months you must change the inner drum spider at the same time as the bearing kit, otherwise you are wasting your time, to complete the repair if you have not done one before will take you aprox 1 to 3 hours depending on space available and practicle ability, here goes, remove lid and outer case from machine to do this remove bolts on lower back and two side bolts (under small white covers) remove bolts along top edges both sides on top of macnine, remove cabinet, remove motor, remove hoses, remove heater and thermostat wires, noting location for refitting, remove suspension leg pins and lift outer drum assembly complete fron lower frame, split two halves of outer drum by removing bolts around centre seem, split drum in two, remove drum pully, refit pully bolt and drift inner drum out having put nut back on drum spider thread to avoid flaring shaft, using hammer knock shaft through bearings, then using a chisel or similer object knock out bearings and seal, reverse process refitting new bearins and spider, make sure to replace centre outer drum seal, as these are prone tro leaking I suggest you also seal with a layer of clear silicon, and problems contact me again, not really a job for a novice. Good Luck you will need it. Regards Advisor

Aug 29, 2007 | Zanussi FJS1225W Front Load Washer

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