Question about LG WM-2277HW Front Load Washer
Having removed the motor to replace the drum bearings and inner drum I notice there is quite a bit of black dust on and around the electric motor and was wondering if this is a normal sign of wear and tear or means the motor is nearing the end of its life. Prior to taking apart the washing machine the motor itself seemed to be working fine. The machine could be around ten years old. Thanks
That is most likely from the belt on the drum. If you want to check that though take some of the dust and see if it is gritty feeling. you can check that by putting it on something smooth and setting something hard on top of it and moving the top object around. Or pinch it between fingers etc. The motor should be brushless because it is an AC motor.
Posted on May 10, 2014
Testimonial: "Thanks Brad. It was dust from the belt. I cleaned as much as I could from in and around the motor. It all seems to be working fine now."
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: LG TROMM WM 2077CW LE Error
An LE error is a locked rotor. The hall sensor on the stator part of the motor is not sensing the rotor part of the motor is turning. So the short version is you need a new stator(which has the sensor on it or just the sensor) replaced which should have a 5 year warranty on it so call LG for your nearest authorized service center
Posted on Dec 05, 2007
SOURCE: LG Tromm Washer
What is the mater with us that we are accepting this outrageous product flaw?
Let's put the blame exactly where it belongs and keep it there until manufacturers clean up their act!
What in the world are we thinking when we allow ourselves to be forced to jump through these ridiculous hoops just do do laundry!?
I am furious and it is over something as stupid as a washing machine! A WASHING MACHINE!!!!
New government regulations for new water efficiency washing machines has my family’s clothing smelling like a stinking, rancid, moldy basement! This is absolutely absurd! I have been told to change laundry detergent, run hot bleach water through my washer and, get this; my washing machine is 1 year old and my clothes smell filthy!!! The mold and mildew from these nasty machines have wreaked havoc through skin rashes and allergies in my children!
I paid $1,000.000 for this da*ned washing machine and THIS is what is being sold to the public under the disguise of efficiency!!?? I have been on the phone about this problem. I have, over the past 3 months, with a technician on the phone, been instructed to do the following:
*Make sure I use high efficiency detergent THAT will fix my problem.
*Cleaned the lint trap (..that is stupidly behind a metal access plate that you have to use a screwdriver to remove screws to get to it EVERY TIME) and THAT will fix my problem.
*Cleaned the water hoses; THAT will fix my problem.
*Cleaned the gasket around the door. THAT will fix my problem
*Cleaned the tub with bleach water. THAT will fix my problem.
*REMOVED the hoses and cleaned the pump. THAT will fix my problem.
*Take the pump out entirely and clean all inlet, outlets and hoses. THAT will fix my problem.
WRONG! WRONG!! WRONG!!!
NONE of this fixed my problem of filthy, wet, stinking, rancid clothing that has endangered my family's health! I even washed my children's clothing out by hand in the bathtub and put them in the washer just to rinse and spin and they STILL smelled horrific.
Finally, at the end of my rope, I returned to the appliance store from which I purchased this machine and they have told me that they cannot accept a return. They will not accept a return and I have to deal directly with GE. I HAVE dealt with GE up until the final straw when I they told me I needed a new pump, but so sorry, your warranty JUST expired 3 days ago!!!
Furthermore, my pump was fine. I did NOT need a new pump and have now been told that I cannot return the new, unused pump that cost me another $183.00. I have now been told that this is a problem with ALL front loading washing machines and I should do the following:
*First, run a full complete wash cycle on hottest setting containing Bleach – * Note: wash cycle takes 1 hour and 20 minutes
*Next, run a full wash cycle on hottest setting using high efficiency laundry detergent for another 1 hour and 20 minutes
*Next, run a full wash cycle on hottest setting using Cascade automatic dish washing detergent for an ADDITIONAL 1 hour and 20 minutes
*Next, using Bleach water, wipe down entire interior of washing machine
*Next, using clean white cloth, wipe entire interior of washing machine dry
*Next, leave door ajar to air out machine
*Finally, I have now been informed that I cannot use fabric softener in the machine even though there is a fabric softener dispenser right in the machine because the new front loading machines cannot handle fabric softener!!
Furthermore, I was told that this is new technology and since it is so new, no one really knew these kinds of problems were going to manifest themselves and I just need to try to work with these problems because it is not the manufacturers fault but the GOVERNMENT’S fault! Sorry.
Are you kidding me??
Now I have a $1000.00 piece of junk that the appliance companies are pawning off on unsuspecting consumers and hiding their horrible designs by blaming the government.
So, now this is what I want!
I want the legislature to force manufacturers to properly inform the public of these problems and those who did NOT inform consumers of these issues, COMPENSATE their customers for the $$$$$ it has cost us and the misery and frustration caused by THEIR neglect by NOT informing the consumers of these issues. I want this to be retroactive BACK to at least the year 2005. Furthermore, I want compensated for the cost of buying a top loading washing machine in an effort to keep our families away from the mold and mildew and filthy mess this has caused! Finally, I want manufacturers to own up to the fact that they disregarded the health and safety of consumers in their efforts to profit as much as possible while touting efficiency.
Now I have heard that they have a new 'product' they can sell to us to inhibit the stench of mold and mildew. This is absolutely unacceptable!
This is outrageous and we need to speak out about this and make sure our voices are heard!
Posted on Dec 12, 2007
This fix below completely fixed my LG front loader issue of the drum "freezing" and "studdering" on fill and a lot of times giving a LE (motor overload) error. Bought position sensor as described and doing a load right now!
Wolfster you are awesome...you saved me probably $200.
Definitely sounds like the position sensor is faulty. I had this happen to my WM2277HB recently. Motor would start to turn, then jerk, hum, and not move, eventually gives LE code. Powering down, all the other tips had no effect. Very unlikely that the motor itself is bad if it still turns freely. You could confirm the stator wiring is OK by unplugging it and taking resistance readings across the stator terminals of the 3-pin connector (any combo of two should be 7-15 ohms). I was able to order the part from an online electronics supplier (www.mcminone.com, P/N 6501KW2002A, description is "sensor assembly") and several other places may have it as well. You can download a basic but somewhat helpful service manual here http://126.96.36.199/contents/Laundry/WM2277.htm that has some disassembly instructions and exploded view diagrams, explains the troubleshooting mode. Don't even bother calling LG or a service tech unless it's under warranty. If you're here you probably have some basic repair skills and tools and can easily replace it yourself for about $20. My washer was about a year and a half old when the sensor went out, now it runs great again.
Posted on Dec 18, 2007
SOURCE: suspect drum bearings
LG Direct Drive bearing replacement
The following guide is written to help you assess if
replacing the bearings is a job you can undertake and complete. This is
not written to be specific to any particular direct drive model but it
will help in all cases.
Must do's Before commencing work on an electrical appliance:
1) Unplug the appliance from the wall socket, ensure the appliance on/off switch is in the off position.
2) Turn off the inlet water at the isolation valves and disconnect the inlet hoses from the appliance.
3) Clear a space and plan where you are going to put items you remove from the appliance.
4) Have pen and paper handy for making notes, a digital camera is ideal for taking a picture of wiring connections for future reference (**PHOTO**)
Strip down 1) Remove the worktop by undoing 2 screws at the rear, slide backwards and lift off.
2) FROM THE BACK.....Remove the back panel (4 screws) giving access to the rear of the tub unit. Disconnect the wiring to the motor, thermostat and heater, disconnect earth wires, (**PHOTO**). The drum pulley, which is the ROTOR of the direct drive system has a single bolt to undo. Slacken this bolt a turn or two, DO not remove completely. Gently tap the bolt with a soft faced hammer or drift, this will assist in the removal of the Rotor. Remove the bolt and remove the rotor, careful as it has a series of magnets around its inner circumference. The stator of the direct drive system is now in front of you, there are 6 bolts holding it in place. Remove these and very carefully remove the stator without damaging it, its very expensive, look after it. Depending on your model there could be a spacer between the stator and the tub unit, if so remove this also.
3) FROM THE FRONT.....Open the filter door (left side of kick plate) if there is a small drain hose, remove stopper and drain off any water in there. There is 1 screw to remove which is at the side of the filter, then slide the kick plate sideways should release the plinth from the cabinet. Open the door, the seal clamp band that secures the door gasket to the cabinet should be removed. If the door seal has a further hose attached, remove it.
4) Read all of this paragraph, there are 2 versions.....Remove 3 screws holding the lower edge of the front panel to the cabinet. Remove the soap drawer, remove 2 screws in the control panel that secure the soap box, depending on model there could be a third in the lower right hand corner, if there is, remove it. If there isn't read on further.. Carefully slide the front panel downwards about 20mm and it will disengage from the cabinet, carefully look behind it and disconnect the door lock wiring to allow complete removal. If there was not a third screw (lower right hand corner of the control panel) then the control panel will have to be removed. From the top remove the clip retaining the hose that goes into the top of the tub unit, remove the clip holding the large hose on the left, slide the soap box backwards slightly and hang over the back of the cabinet, all the hoses still connected. To remove the control panel look under the top frame and release the two lugs whilst easing the panel away from the cabinet. disconnect the wiring and remove away completely.
5) From the bottom remove the sump hose from the tub, the screw that secures the pressure bottle to the tub. Remove the suspension pins from the top position of the legs and push the legs clear of the tub unit. The tub unit will now be hanging from the top springs. Using strong wire or rope, loop the hook of the spring, lift clear of the cabinet and lower the tub unit to the floor. Repeat this on the other spring which then allows the tub unit to be lifted through the front of the cabinet.
6) Place the tub unit door seal up, remove the screws that secure tub front 1/2 to the rear 1/2. This allows the inner drum to be removed, if its tight use soft faced hammer, DO NOT damage the drum shaft.
Inspect the drum shaft collar, the collar is located at the base of the shaft and is the surface that the oil seal mates to. Look for indents or circular ruts where the previous seal has worn the collar away
if damaged you will need a new spider unit. Do not clean up using abrasive cloth, try the green pan scrubber from the kitchen instead. If damaged and you don't replace it the bearing replacement will fail prematurely as the oil seal fails to keep the wash water away.
There are several different kits, comprising of 2 bearings and 1 oil seal. To obtain the correct kit you will need the model number of your appliance, eg WM1480FHD or WM1485FHD or WM16225FD
all use bearing kit 1 available here other kits are available for other models including belt drives and washer dryers
The bearings can now be removed, the seats cleaned and made ready for the new bearings and water seal. A light cover of grease can be smeared on the inner edge of the seal.
7) There is a tub seal which fits in the recess between the front and rear 1/2's of the tub unit, it is adviseable to renew that seal before rebuild is commenced.
8) Rebuild is a reversal of the above, at every step double check electrical and hose connections and before you refit the cabinet front.
Hope you find this guide useful, some paragraphs can be applied to the belt drives also.
Posted on Oct 04, 2008
Here is the answer !!! My LG front loader has leaked once a year for the past 4 years. The rubber bellows (a part underneath the washer) cracks and causes the leak. DO NOT LET THEM TELL YOU THAT YOU ARE USING TOO MUCH DETERGENT ... THAT JUST AN EXCUSE !!! The part costs around $12. Here's the link ...
Posted on Oct 06, 2008
Tips for a great answer:
Dec 18, 2013 | Indesit Dryers
Under normal circumstances, to test
your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting
pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel
inner drum up and down.
drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it
should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to
the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even
the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed. Having said this, if your bearings have siezed, there may be no play in the drum because they are jammed solid.
If the bearings have siezed, then other symptoms that have been leading up to the failure will typically include:
clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum
rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum), but as I say, with siezed bearings, this may not be the case.
have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly
even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.
When you turn the stiff drum by hand, it may not only be stiff, but you may be aware of a grinding crunching noise that you can also feel transmitting through the drum as you turn it at the same time (the broken bearing catching up on smashed bits as you turn the drum)
from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of
the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the
failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.
If it is the main bearing (and I can't imagine any other cause other than the motor its self seizing) then this
is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine
and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in
bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.
To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about £20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I
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