Question about Dishwashers
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The 1/2" drain line you are referring to is probably the 3/4" line from the booster heater located to the left of the pump motor. The temperature/pressure relief valve is bad.
The booster heater could be overheating (bad thermostat), or you may not have an expansion tank on your building hot water system. The heating and explanding water in the booster has no where to expand to, causing a pressure spike high enough to pop the valve.
First, change the valve. I use a heavier-duty Watts XL40 valve, I purchase them from International Commercial Supply or Johnstone. Even if there is a cause for them to leak, once they start leaking they need to be replaced.
Once the new valve is in, power up and test the unit. Power up and fill the unit, then let the booster recover until it cycles off. Run a cycle, and check your rinse temperature. I like to see 190-192 degrees. If it went higher than 195 I'd turn the thermostat down. If it didn't shut off at all, and the relief blew, time to replace the thermostats in the booster heater.
Posted on Sep 12, 2009
I would simply slide the unit under the counter and connect the inlet and drian hose permenantly.If the unit is not tall enough and sits too low then build a shelf or false floor in the cupboard for it to stand on.
Posted on Dec 30, 2009
by the way you're describing the problem, i would have to say there is something wrong with your control board. part#473173 can be bought @ any hobart office in your area. dont forget to vote
Posted on Feb 13, 2010
Testimonial: "Turns out it was mice eaten wiring."
The WM-1D does not have any internal heating devices. You have to supply the machine with the proper water temp. It has two fill valves, one for wash and one for rinse. It should have 150F supplied to the wash fill valve and 180F to the rinse fill valve.
Posted on Jul 16, 2010
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