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<span>Hi,<br /><br />For error code E004-001 or E004-002<br /><br />Cause:<br />The SSR has a short circuit.<br />• The SSR has an error.<br />• The DC controller PCB has a fault.<br />The heater relay has an error.<br />• The heater relay has an error.<br />• The DC controller PCB has a fault.<br /><br />Description:<br />• The fixing heater remains<br />on.<br />• The fixing temperature has<br />increased abnormally.<br />The heater relay remains on.<br /><br />FIRST TRY TO CLEAR ERROR:<br />Resetting Errors<br />1. The following error codes cannot be reset by merely turning off and then on the main power.<br />They require resetting in service mode:<br />E000, E001, E002, E003, E004, E032, E717<br />1) Start service mode, and select COPIER>FUNCTION>CLEAR>ERR.<br />2) Press the OK key.<br />3) Turn off and then on the main power.<br />2. Error codes other than the above may be reset by turning off and then on the main power.<br />n Detail Code<br />Some error codes offer detail codes, which may be checked in service mode:<br />COPIER>DISPLAY>ERR (3rd block from the right)<br /><br />SERVICE MODE: <br />1) Press the asterisk key ' * ' on the control panel.<br />2) Press '2' and '8' on the keypad at the same time.<br />3) Press the asterisk key ' * ' on the control panel.<br /><br /><br />If these doesnt helps, you need to call service to locate the fault, which is probably bad thermistor.<br /><br />Hope that helps!<br /></span>
Obviously a direct short. Take pic, remove all wires, replace fuse. Wire by wire, turning power back on each time until fuse pops. When it does, there's your problem.
This is a controller fault and depending on the conditions of when it occured, may need replacement of controller itself or some sensor which feeds signal to the controller. Usually if fault keeps repeating or is permanently on and turning mains power off and on makes no difference, then you will need a technician to look at it.
Just been thru a similar problem with my Climate Technologies Vulcan High Efficiency Ducted Gas heater which in this case is installed under the house. This heater is about 7 years old and I have previously (2 years back) refurbished the controller by replacing the main power supply electrolytic filter capacitors.
I also had a communication problem with the Touch pad Thermostat which in the end required replacing the entire touch pad as one of it's voltage regulators had gone intermittent (Touch pads are available on E-Bay). To operate the heater while the touch pad was out of commission I installed a manual switch between the heat contacts on the heater controller. Closing the switch causes the heater to permanently run if it has no thermostat. Once communication with the touch panel was restored we were able to try and find the intermittent heater fault.
Again I have been getting Fault Code 08 "Gas Interruption" however the heater was lighting OK and then going out after about a minute or so. In the end I found 2 distinct heater faults.
Fault 1 was the flame sensor where the weld between the wire and flame probe rod had broken but it was still touching. This meant it was sensing Flame OK and then later would go open with expansion as the temperature rose. I fixed this by replacing the Flame Probe with a new one sourced from Reece HVAC.
At this point I celebrated thinking it was fixed!
Fault 2 after the flame sensor issue was cleared the fault still persisted but slightly less often.
The heater was cycling 3 times to get going and then locking out, requiring a reset from the touch thermostat or heater controller board. Sometimes the heater would achieve a onging burn for a long period, and other times just locking out after 3 tries.
Careful observation of the flame, through the observation holes after it lit, showed correct flame sensing but as soon as the nominal 65C duct temperature was reached the combustion fan (modulates) throttles back too far and the flame goes out, the flame sensor switches off and gas valve is then closed. The pressure differential across the burner manafold controls the Gas flow rate so if the combustion fan goes too slow the flame goes out due to lack of gas.
On the control board there is a potentiometer marked "MIN GAS RATE" this needs to be tweaked clockwise until the burner remains lit when the nominal 60-65C duct temperature is reached. Don't turn it up too far or the heater may not throttle back enough and end up going out on overheat.
Once a stable flame is achieved when throttled, try the heater in the economy mode which uses a lower recirculating fan speed and check the flame still remains lit. My problem was most obvious in the Econ mode.
Hope this helps someone else - It took me over a year to solve this one. NeilP
CFH stands for "Call For Heat"
CFH means "Call for heat" and SPK means "Spark". They are status codes, not fault codes. It basically means that the heater is turning on the heat mode and spark should appear shortly after the CFH code appears. At this point the heater should be igniting and the heater heating up. If you are having a fault issue with the heater, please let us know if there is anything else that we can do for you!
The furnace has a fault check the furnace compartment for a flash code and check it with the code chart on the furnace door. Turning the power off to the furnace and turning it back on will reset the fault but it may happen again till you verify the fault and fix it.
If you are continually losing the connection between the Xbox and the controller, it is probably a problem with the controller losing power. Try replacing the batteries on the controller.
If that doesn't work, try a different controller and see if the same problem happens. It could be that the controller itself has a problem.
The control panel gets its power from the central heating unit's power point. Try turning the power off outside at the powerpoint next to the ducted heating unit and try turning it on again after a few seconds, see if it resets
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