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Sounds like the motor still moves things a bit, but you're wisely opting to not burn it out. :-)
Before you go that far, there are some intermediate things to consider. First of all, don't do anything with the blender plugged in! It can mess up fingers big time. No cutting corners here!
If the debris is external, soak it in soap and hot water, blade down, for a while, and remove what you can with a soft brush or washcloth, being careful with fingers around the blade. If the blade moves at all, grab, preferably with gloved fingers, or with a pair of pliers, and rotate the blade back and forth. If it goes a little bit and stops, don't force it, just go back the other direction as far as you can go. Hopefully after a few runs through the range of motion, it'll start moving further, and you can loosen it. Feel whether it seems to have friction, some specific spot where it binds, whether the resistance feels friction-y, or gummy. Be patient and see if working it by hand, maybe with help from a tool for grip, will loosen it up.
Also check the cord. If it's been wrapped around and around the blender for storage (no, I've NEVER done that, nope nope), over time it'll tend to get really twisty and prone to tangling on itself. it may also then get partially broken, particularly at the spot where the cord enters the body of the blender. You can carefully try wiggling sections of the cord while it's running. If things suddenly change RPMs a lot, then the cord needs to be replaced (which will lead you back to disassembly)
Trying to lube it is dodgy. This will be going into your food and drinks, and you really don't want it slowly depositing 3-in-1 oil or WD-40 back into your smoothies for the next month. If it comes to that, you'll need to take your original aim and try to disassemble it. Then you can make sure that any lube is only where it belongs.
It is not going to be leaking from the motor unit you have photographed. It will be leaking from the beaker in the background. Put warm water in it and stand it on the bench to try and see where it is coming from. Sometimes they only leak when the blade is running so sometimes that test will not work.
Just fixed my blender. Motor was working fine, but the bladea wouldn't turn. I removed the blade piece from the base and tried moving the blades by hand and they wouldn't turn. So, I lubricated the blade at the location where it's supposed to rotate. I kept trying to move the blades by hand and gradually they started to loosen up. All fixed!!! I guess they get stuck after a few years of use.
Sounds like the motor shaft has broken from the impeller. If I had it I would crack the case and see if that were true.(You might see screws holding the case together- If not, they might be hidden under the cosmetic label. If it is true, you need factory help. You better call Customer Service for Bamix.
THis is from http://www.bamix-usa.com/:
The drive shaft is frozen i.e. no longer rotates although the motor still hums: place the operative part of the appliance for 5 to 10 minutes in a jug of hot water, then switch it on. In general the appliance will then work again - if not just try to free the shaft very carefully with pliers
It can happen that the attachments fall off the shaft as they have in time become loose. In this case simply press the spring blades lightly together with a pair of pliers
Processor/Dry Grinder: Discoloration of the bowl (i.e. carrots) can be cleaned with a cloth impregnated with salad oil.
You have to unscrew and disassemble the blades - pretty easy, just take two rags and grab the blades with one (so you don't cut yourself), and then turn the rubber piece on the other side COUNTER CLOCKWISE, opposite of what you would do to loosen. the rod that runs in the middle that's connected to the blades on mine was all corroded, so I sprayed it down with WD-40, took my Dremel to it and smoothed out the corrosion, added some fresh grease ($2 tube goes a long way), washed the other parts with some Dawn and dried completely, reassembled and it runs much better! Not sure how long it will last, but I have a feeling that one time I ran the blender for a long time instead of pulsing, and the grease that came with it couldn't handle the heat from it turning so long. Anyway good luck!
Remove the bottom clean the unit fully. Add the bottom blad assebly and this will fix your problem. The "sooty" is plastic shavings. Take note that the fitting were the "jar" connects to the motor that this is not wearing away. The unit i have broke and i am unable to find a replacement blade assembly.
You will definitely need to change the clutch blade i.e. the black rubber rotating bit. Chaging it on the base unit may be difficult, I would check with your local Kitcheaid repairer for spare parts and repair advice.
Those small plastig bungs do come out, you will need a fine probe to prise them out then you will see 2 philips head screws which hold it all together, not sure how you will tighten your shaft though, looks like it might be moulded into the plastic retainer, good luck! on mine the motor bearings are seized,
Repairing the blender: My guess: You worked the motor too hard on your last blending session and it overheated. That will cause a thermal fuse inside to cut off. The blender won't work again until you replace the fuse but otherwise it should be fine. The fuse looks like a white diode and it will be attached tightly to the motor with a nylon strap (so that it can pick up the heat of the motor). The leads to the fuse are shielded with heat resistant nylon wrap. You will need to remove the rubber drive gear in order to remove the plastic house so you can work, although if you are really handy you might be able to at least test the unit by only removing the plastic bottom on the base unit.
To remove the plastic housing, remove the little rubber feet and then remove all of the screws on the bottom of the unit. You may need to buy a bit set for tamper resistant screws (I ***hate*** those), I don't remember. When the bottom is removed, you will see that the there is a screw head on the bottom of the central motor shaft. You can use a screw driver here to hold the motor from turning, then you can carefully use a pliers to unscrew the rubber drive gear on the top of the base unit (try not to damage the rubber). With the gear removed you can get access to the wires.
To test the fuse unit, just check its continuity. Short=good, open=bad. To further test, short out the fuse with a jumper cable and your blender should work.
EPO (Electronics Parts Outlet) in Houston, TX, has the replacement fuse unit. I don't know that they like mail order.