Question about Microwave Ovens
My Microwave is plugged in, but there is no power. I tested the bus and thermal fuses in the cavity behind the control panel, all seem to check out okay. What do I test next?
Assuming you checked the main fuse (inside the case, near where the power cord enters), you might have a bad connection to the (main fuse) fuse holder. Sometimes these heat up and oxidize. Some thermal protectors operate seemingly backwards; in that they are normally open, and close when certain conditions occur (such as a fire in the cavity). Make sure all door switches actually function properly by checking them with an ohm meter. Although extremely rare, power cords sometimes fail.
Posted on May 10, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: No power from Whirlpool.
The problem was a defective switch. There are 3 switches on mine. 1 on the top door latch, and 2 on the bottom. one of the switches on the bottom connected the power and neutral together, unless it was activated at the same time as the other 2, causing the breaker to trip or the internal fuse to blow. When unhooking the wire going from this switch to the other switch, everything works great now. Though I still need to replace the switch.
And for Basic 1. Yes my microwave did have a fuse in it it's ceramic, I got a pack of them at Radio Shack 4 for 3$ 250V 20 Amp. There should be a wiring diagram inside the microwave, mine was inside a black bag, so it may be hard to see.
Mine was up top next to the fuse behind the Plastic Grill and then a small metal grill. Some are behind the control panel, to fix this remove the screw at the top and then slide the control panel up and it should unhinge.
Posted on Apr 01, 2008
SOURCE: Dead Microwave
Check your plug and change the fuse there also.
You might need to rechange the 20 amp 250v fuse behind the control panel again due to the recent spark.
If none of this works then i'm afraid a certified technician needs to check the power packs and boards
Posted on May 22, 2009
This can happen if one runs the microwave empty instead of user the timer function or if the internal cooling fan fails or if the magnetron is going bad.
Chances are it overheated and the magnetron's thermostat / thermal cutout has failed.
There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.
At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.
We have the service / repair manual for this model and have uploaded it to our site here for free download to help you.
It will give you safety info, step by step help in disassembly, and troubleshooting tips.
Most computers will open this document automatically, but you may need the free Adobe Reader.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Aug 04, 2009
If the 20A fuse is blowing, it is often the high voltage transformer or magnetron. If this is the case, and the microwave is not under warranty, replace it. Residential microwaves are generally considered disposable. Parts and labor are just too expensive. A magntron or transformer can cost more that half the cost of a new microwave.
Posted on Feb 25, 2010
The original problem, was probably caused by a bad door switch along with the fuse, now there is a good chance the control panel is damaged, you will need a professional to assess if the item is worth fixing.
Posted on Apr 22, 2012
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