Question about Irons
Most likely problem is that the heat element in the sole plate is burned out. That being the problem, it will be less expensive to replace the entire iron than to get it repaired,if repair is even possible and parts are even available.
Posted on May 09, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
sounds like a loose connection in the power transfer, some piece of metal may be broken or the cord itself may be damaged in some place, you could try replacing the cord. I would just go and buy a new iron. They aren't all that expensive anymore. Good luck with whatever you decide to do. I hope you solve your problem. If you want any further help or have any other questions, please let me know, otherwise have a Good Day.
Posted on Mar 29, 2008
SOURCE: red light on
Per the owner manual, you shake the iron to "wake it back up".
The safety cycle initiates after it sits over 8 minutes on it's heel, or on it's sole plate or it's side side for more than 30 seconds. The light shoul dbe blinking when it is in the safety mode.
If you can't wake it up, then return it if it is still under new warranty.
Posted on Jan 30, 2009
SOURCE: Iron not heating up...
I had the same problem. There is a thermal cut-off switch mounted to the top-side of the base-plate. Unfortunately, you have to completely disassemble the iron to get to it. It is an easy replace, just make sure you take good notes on how it's all wired and put together. To disassemble the iron, I did this:
- Mount it in the cord base and move the switch to the "wireless" setting to remove the cord assembly from the iron.
- There are 2 small while nubs on the bottom of the blue plate in back. These are plugs. Pull them out to expose 2 screws.
- Remove these two screws plus the one in the center of the back blue plate.
- Pull the blue plate from the back of the iron and MARK all wires so you know where they go, then remove them.
- You will see 2 screws into the blue plastic base-plate at the back. Remove these.
- Open the door at the front of the iron where you pour the water in.
- Pry the spray nozzle at the bottom out (pry it forward). This will expose a third screw into the blue part of the base-pate. Remove this screw.
- Pull the white plastic and blue reservior away from the blue plastic base-plate. This will expose three screws into the metal bottom plate. Remove these three screws (on in front, 2 in back).
- Pull the blue plate away from the bottom metal plate. This will expose the thermal cut-off. There is a screw with a small metal clip holding it down. This is the part you will need to replace.
I bought my replacement part from a local electronics store. On mine, it was a 240 degree C cut-off. The part I used was from NTE. Part number is NTE8242. It cost me $1.40.
I suspect the reason this blew on my iron is because Oreck engineers didn't expect it to be plugged in all the time (my wife did not like the 'wireless' mode as it did not stay hot long enough so she uses it in 'corded' mode). If you use the iron on it's hottest setting in this mode, it appears that perhaps the plate gets hotter than 204C. That, or Oreck just got a lot of bad thermal cut-off parts and they are cutting off at a temperature lower than 240C.
Posted on Aug 03, 2009
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